Do bar/chain combos make a difference?

[robv]

I am trying to cut a LOT of firewood. I have somewhere between 4-6 cords left to cut and plan on getting another load as we would have burned about 8 cords already this winter. It is all hardwoods - mostly white oak, hickory, and ash. Some of it is up to 30" in diameter (there is one monster that is waist high).
Well anyhow, the saw just ain't cutting it, pardon the pun. I have an MS290 with a 20" bar. It's a nice saw and does a fantastic job with the smaller stuff. I just don't think that it was made for some of the work I am trying to do. Are there any bar/chain combinations that would make better use of the saw's power? I was looking at some aftermarket bars, but I don't know enough about them to be able to tell if they would make a difference. I don't want to go spend the money on a different bar if it won't matter any. I was curious if there was anyone out there that had some ideas that might help make my days cutting firewood a little shorter.

And unfortunately, going out and getting a 361 is out of the question at the moment...

 

[extraspecialman]

You have a few options.For starters get rid of that low kick chain if ya aint already.A full chisel square tooth chain for clean wood,round chisel for dirty wood.Since your 029 aint got a low kick bar,a bar wont make much difference in power and chain speed unless you drop down to a 16".But there alot of bars out there that are lighter and more durable than the bar on your 029.My 029,[well 290] does just fine in hardwood,cut some beech trees last fall with it that were about 2 feet across the butt.Ill agree with everybody else before they say it,no the 029-290 aint the best choice of saw,but it will do the job.Keep the chain sharp,thats the main thing

 

[aandabooks]

Do you have the .325 pitch or 3/8 pitch on?

 

[czar800]

Welcome to AS. We need more info. to help you better.

 

[bluequill56]

As a former owner of a MS310, which is only a slight step above your 290, I'll take a crack at answering your question.

Unfortunately, 20" is about the limit for bar length the 290 is capable of pulling. There was a recent thread on this with a lot of discussion on this. I'll see if I can find it for you.

Anyway, I tried a 25" bar on my 310. It would pull it, but not well. After spending an afternoon with it burried attempting to buck a 30" Burr Oak I decided it was a bad idea. I wasn't getting very far very fast, and it seemed terribly hard on the saw. I put the 20" back on and it was much happier. That's when I decided I needed more saw. Entere stage left; MS460. Phase one of CAS. The rest is history.

If a larger saw isn't feasible for you right now just stay with the 290, don't push it harder than it wants to go, and cut from both sides. You might think about doing a muffler mod for a little more power. There's a couple of good threads on that. I just did one last week-end on my old 310 for the guy who bought it from me and I couldn't believe the difference. If you can't find one of the old threads, just re-post here or PM me and I'll walk you through it. You'll have to readjust your carb if you do it. We'll help you with that too, if you decide to try it.

Regards,
Shane.

 

[aandabooks]

There's a thread on page 2 that has good pics and discussion about opening up that muffler. I wonder about pitch because if he can get over to the 3/8 he can run some good RSC on an 18" setup that would be much more effective. It is just a matter of cost.

 

[bluequill56]

Here's the thread on 25" bars on the 290. Opinions vary....

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=64694&highlight=290+25

 

[bluequill56]

There's a thread on page 2 that has good pics and discussion about opening up that muffler. I wonder about pitch because if he can get over to the 3/8 he can run some good RSC on an 18" setup that would be much more effective. It is just a matter of cost.

Agreed. I ran 3/8 RSC on my 310 and it worked very well. But a lot of the 290's around here come with .325 stock. I see that a lot.

I run .325 RS on my 260 and like it, so I think that would be a good option if he has .325 on his and doens't want to change bars and sprockets. Sounds like cost may be an issue.

 

[czar800]

There's a thread on page 2 that has good pics and discussion about opening up that muffler. I wonder about pitch because if he can get over to the 3/8 he can run some good RSC on an 18" setup that would be much more effective. It is just a matter of cost.

+1 Get the RSC..

I run a 3/8 18" RSC on a 026, and I like it.

 

[robv]

Everything on mine is still stock, so I am running the .325 chain. I don't have a problem with spending money on bars/chains/sprockets. I just don't want to spend the money to find out it's less effective than what I have.
I really appreciate all the input so far.

 

[Griffbm3]

Hello Rob:

Welcome to AS. Are you near Westover, Westfield or Hanscomb? If it's Westover/Westfield, I drive through there to the woods just about every weekend, happy to help out, and bring some larger saws... Let me know.

Jason

 

[LazyJ]

Stihl stock as in a Green Dot on one of your chain links? Dude, there's your problem bigtime. That would be an RM chain and you definitely want an RS.

 

[aandabooks]

If your still running the green chain, then moving to the RSC chain even in the .325 pitch is going to make a difference. Does your chain have a ramp in front of the raker? If your not sure, check out the Stihl website for chain pics.

That would probably be your first and easiest move. The second would be modding the muffler and richening up the saw. Can be done at home with a couple of drill bits and maybe a die grinder.

 

[robv]

Does your chain have a ramp in front of the raker? If your not sure, check out the Stihl website for chain pics.QUOTE]

I checked the Stihl site, and I believe I do have the ramp... I am running the RMC3 chain. I was planning on stopping in at the Stihl store today. I think I'll pick up an RSC chain and have a go with it...

Jason, I am stationed on Hanscom, and live just west of there in Littleton.

Thanks everyone for your help,
Rob

 

[SawTroll]

The skip version of RSC or RMC (depending if the wood is reasonably clean or not) sounds like the best upgrade when the saw isn't really up to the task.

 

[Zodiac45]

Everything on mine is still stock, so I am running the .325 chain. I don't have a problem with spending money on bars/chains/sprockets. I just don't want to spend the money to find out it's less effective than what I have.
I really appreciate all the input so far.

Short and sweet. Your 20" bar is the MAX you can run on that saw with any sort of power.
The best you can hope for is get some good chain Stihl RS or Oregon LG is fine and possibly a muffler mod for a bit more power. Other than that, for your saw, I'd be using an 18" and 3/8th set up max, but thats just me.

Your gonna have probs with some of the bigger stuff so take your time, sharpen your chain often, and just let the saw cut at it own speed. Don't lean on it hard in big stuff. Any friends with bigger saws?

PS: Take up Griff on his offer!

 

[robv]

Nah, all my friends are city-slickers. I'm the only one I know who even owns a chainsaw. I think maybe I'll pester the wife until she breaks down and lets me get a new saw... She thinks I spend too much money as it is, so what's a few hundred more right? :greenchainsaw:

 

[litefoot]

Nah, all my friends are city-slickers. I'm the only one I know who even owns a chainsaw. I think maybe I'll pester the wife until she breaks down and lets me get a new saw... She thinks I spend too much money as it is, so what's a few hundred more right? :greenchainsaw:

Look, if you're burning that much wood each year, you need at least one backup saw. Besides, the money you're saving on your heating bills will EASILY pay for a saw. A $600-700 saw will last you 20+ years if taken care of. That's, at most, $30-35 a year. You're buying a work tool that will take care of your family, not a play toy. Just don't let her know how FUN that "work tool" is.