Does anti-transpirant actually work?

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Does anti-transpirant actually work?

  • Yes

    Votes: 6 50.0%
  • No

    Votes: 1 8.3%
  • Mixed feelings

    Votes: 5 41.7%

  • Total voters
    12

Thillmaine

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Messages
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Location
Upstate NY
Do you think anti-transpirant actually works? From what I have been taught, it actually has a negative effect on plants rather then positive. The layer or waxy substance acts like a greenhouse, so during the late afternoon in the winter, they leaf inside has been heated, and is no longer frozen, and then the sun sets, resulting in rupturing of individual cells, as a result of the rapid temprature change, and lack of acclimation to it. Like ot know if anybody else feels the same way has evidence of this or that this is false.
 
prob if you need an anti transpirant the plant is not suitable for the area. Also it washes of w rain , snow or humidity and has limited residual. I m in the same state of mind as you are , however, as I was just shopping for burlap to cover a 60 foot cherry laurel hedge I just planted last spring bcs it is to be 12 degrees tonight. They re tucked on the south side of a building so I talked myself out of it in the hardware store and decided to take the hit or find out if they are up to it. It is in a convent and the sisters specifically asked for it. Anyway I voted mixed feelings on the poll. I think it works bcs Ive used it many times before butwho wants to unwinterize spray equipment or use backpack sprayer if it is a big job.
 
I haven't used it, but thinking of it from a biology standpoint...how does the leaf become heated? The "greenhouse" explanation implys it would be by the leaf tissue absorbing heat from the sun, but not being able to release that heat. There really isn't much of a "heat sink" in the leaf tissue, but I guess it is possible.

So the second question is whether there is enough water in the cells and whether the cell walls are rigid enough that the expansion of the frozen water will rupture the cell. I'm guessing no...because the cell water will freeze with or without antidesicant if it is cold enough.

The next question is: how does a treated leaf behave differently than untreated? The answer is by not allowing water out, right? But how does water get into the leaf? According to cohesion-tension theory it is being pulled by evaporation. A treated leaf is not "bringing extra water in", then.

So here is my best (un-researched) guess:
During most of the winter, it is probably going to be beneficial because it will truly prevent desication. During very early spring when there is a little push from the roots, you can end up with too much water in the leaf since none can escape, which could cause problems during freezing nights. I don't feel like looking up research on it right now...so be aware that I could be proved 100% wrong if somebody does. Just trying to reason this out based on plany physiology.
 
I think one of the premises of applying the anti dessicant is to protect from water loss thru the leaf on a warm day when the ground is frozen solid and not yeilding any to the plant. I think it is able to do this. As for preventing cell damage from lower temps than the plant is capable to withstand (as a spruce is inherently able to take bcs of waxy covering ) it is probably able to also do this by artificially adding this substance. I change my vote. It does wash off though and has to be renewed.
 
I've been using anti-transpirants for many years & have never seen any negative effects. I've been with companies that want to apply it before Thanksgiving (in New Jersey). I prefer to apply it as late as possible in December and then again in Jan. or Feb. if there is a thaw. I believe the second application is more crucial than the first. I've had good success with this protocol.
Read the label as some plants are sensitive to some products, use the higher rate recommended, and charge accordingly.
Barry Draycott
 
In college, the department head of the landscape program gave me a 20' to 25' tall weeping giant sequioa. It was in a large metal pot in his woods.

I don't remember why exactly, but the day we move the tree, was the day it had to be moved.

It had a sort of tap root that went through a hole in the bottom.

Anyhow, to get the root cut and tip the pot, it ended up being moved bare-root, all the way from Portland's far east suburb over to Beaverton, a west suburb.

85 degree day.

Used anti-transpirant, washed a mud around the roots and cabled it into position.

No discoloring, or foliage loss. It did great. I've used the product ever since when I felt it would help. Especially with arborvitae in the warm season.
 
Reviving the dead

So after reading this thread I thought I would bring it back to get some more information.

Does anyone have a list of trees that do not do well when sprayed with an anti-dessicant in the winter?

Also, I have been looking at Transfilm but wonder who uses what around the country.

:blob2:

Cheers,

Themadd1
 
I am looking at using the anti-transpirant on evergreens and broad leaf evergreens to help with drying out over the winter. With this last odd winter I want to hep customers keep their rhodos from drying out like last year. I would say about 50% of all the rhodos I have seen this year have severe drying and a loss of up to 50% of the foliage.
 
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