Does anyone actually LIKE grinding chains??

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stihl only

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This is the part of my job that I dread the most. I've tried several times to farm them out, but it seems like most guys just rush through them and mess them up. Most of the ones that come in, are pretty rocked, and take some time to do. My grinder is in the basement, and it's like a dungeon down there, but my shop is too small to have it upstairs and I like to leave the mess downstairs.

Just seems like a way to spend a whole lot of time making very little money!!

So if you like it, what's your secret to it??
 
This is the part of my job that I dread the most. I've tried several times to farm them out, but it seems like most guys just rush through them and mess them up. Most of the ones that come in, are pretty rocked, and take some time to do. My grinder is in the basement, and it's like a dungeon down there, but my shop is too small to have it upstairs and I like to leave the mess downstairs.

Just seems like a way to spend a whole lot of time making very little money!!

So if you like it, what's your secret to it??

I hate sharpening chains with a passion. All chain sharpening does is interupt me all day long. I gotten pretty ruff about on the spot sharpening. I did make a nice tip on one today but most times its buy a new one, leave the old one or wait till I get around to it. We got the price at 7.50 off the saw, 10.00 on the saw and they keep pouring in with chains and saws for sharpening. Time to raise the price again.

I don't sharpen my own chains because I hate sharpening, give me a new one.
 
im in the market for a chain grinder...trying to find the best bang for my buck...im not gonna be sharpening to many chains but a few...i personally hate filing them too.
 
I hate sharpening chains with a passion. All chain sharpening does is interupt me all day long. I gotten pretty ruff about on the spot sharpening. I did make a nice tip on one today but most times its buy a new one, leave the old one or wait till I get around to it. We got the price at 7.50 off the saw, 10.00 on the saw and they keep pouring in with chains and saws for sharpening. Time to raise the price again.

I don't sharpen my own chains because I hate sharpening, give me a new one.

damn man. i am in the wrong gig. you can make a killing sharpening chain.

10 bucks a pop? with a grinder? easy money son, why you shying away from that?

jeez man, at work i'll sharpen a coworkers saw just so i dont have to watch them labor through a cut. medium dunks at the most is what i charge. lol

filing is sooo easy. 10 bucks and they line out the door too?

hey tommie, set me up a cot in that shop. like me or not i'm coming down to get into the bidness with you.

elvis is alright. can i hold your 441? where's the bathroom?
 
Well I can't do it on the spot, because I'm what you call a one man band. I know it SOUNDS great,, like it's printing money, but I have so many things that I could be getting done, and the grinding has to happen after hours. I'm at about $6 a chain, up to 20", BUT most or the ones that come in are really abused, or been filed by a guy that can't file. Now you have one tooth that's half the length of the long one on the chain and you have to knock a grinding wheel width off of most of the teeth to get them all to match. I've had chains with the left cutters at a 5deg angle, and the right cutters at a 50deg angle.

I'm thinking of bringing the grinder home and setting it up next to my wood stove so I at least am home, and have some atmosphere!

It really isn't as glorious as it sounds grinding chains.

There is one shop in my area that doesn't even do them at all, but they will give you a "trade on your old chain. Give you like $5 off on a new one, and their new ones are at least $5 more than I sell them for!

I have decent tools, like a Silvey and a USG, but maybe a wheel upgrade would speed things up for me too? The USG takes time to change from different pitch chains, so I usually leave it set for 3/8" LP but those things don't repeat left and right cutter length or depth like a Silvey.

Maybe I'm spending too much time trying to make every chain perfect, but with so many hacks out there, I refuse to join them!
 
...................... We got the price at 7.50 off the saw, 10.00 on the saw and they keep pouring in with chains and saws for sharpening. Time to raise the price again.................


Thats good work if you can get it steady.

bill
 
Stihl,
I have a question?
How do you know when to sharpen each tooth to on a grinder? My question comes from a damaged chain on a friends 280. it cuts hard to the right( clockwise) i have staightened the bar to dead square but can't the cut straight. Do you put a micrometer on each cutter head then move to the next one or what ?
thanks
 
I have decent tools, like a Silvey and a USG, but maybe a wheel upgrade would speed things up for me too? The USG takes time to change from different pitch chains, so I usually leave it set for 3/8" LP but those things don't repeat left and right cutter length or depth like a Silvey.

Get a cyclone CBN wheel - you'll never look back. Easily doubles throughput...
 
Stihl,
I have a question?
How do you know when to sharpen each tooth to on a grinder? My question comes from a damaged chain on a friends 280. it cuts hard to the right( clockwise) i have staightened the bar to dead square but can't the cut straight. Do you put a micrometer on each cutter head then move to the next one or what ?
thanks

To answer your question, the cutter length is referenced to the back of the cutter, not the front. Find the max typical damage, grind it off, make the rest the same left and right.

The depth of the rakers has much more to do with cutting crooked than the exact length of the cutter... hand filing of the rakers compensates for this; grinding the rakers does not. I always set my rakers by hand.
 
not really... but getting to where I don't mind it.
used to hand file only, but now equipped with a Silvey and Simington for square grinding.

hardly ever hand file anymore... now carry, mutiple chains pre-sharpened, ready to go.
 
sharpening chains off the saw

I don't have a shop but have a few saws and worked for a tree surgeon back in 1979- 82. I do some repairs on some saws for friends and others. I have always sat on the saw and filed the chain. This is what I was taught so it's all I know.This is the most comfortable way I have found though i'm getting older and my legs get stiff. How do you sharpen a chain off the saw with a file? Put it in a vice or what. It sure would be nice to be able to stand and do it.
Most people I know hit nails and never take care of their saw. Last week I sharpened one for my sons buddy and the teeth were so bad and with a new file it took me 45 mins to get it straight. It was like someone else mentioned, a couple teeth were smaller than the others and some were so bad....bad angles where they must have tried to sharpen it and it was hades to get the angles back right. So is a grinder the way to go? I don't mind using a file but when they are that bad shoot. When I use my saws i sharpen them and have them ready for the next time I need them and it takes only four strokes or so to sharpen it. Shame most aren't like this but I guess you guys couldn't make any money if they were. If I charge to sharpen one in the future that is real bad should I charge more? Sorry for the rambling and any replies will be appreciated. Thanks, FullCry:crazy1:
 
clamp your chainsaw by the bar in a sturdy vise. then file with good light and a nice pair jeweler's magnifying hood.

this is much better than sitting on chainsaw! frees up both hands and you can see exactly what angles you are filing.

I have always sat on the saw and filed the chain. This is what I was taught so it's all I know.This is the most comfortable way I have found though i'm getting older and my legs get stiff. How do you sharpen a chain off the saw with a file? Put it in a vice or what. It sure would be nice to be able to stand and do it.
 
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I don't mind doing it, but if I did it every day for a living, my answer might be different.

+1

I actually like and prefer to sharpen chains by hand - I find it very satisfying to take other peoples chains that are really beat up and make them function again. I also make my own chains and convert them to ripping chains During my holidays by the beach earlier this year, while everyone went swimming in the mornings, I converted 2 , 191 cutter 3/8 chains from 30º top plate angle to 10º toplate and set the rakers to 0.027". It's my therapy and its way cheaper than most other therapy I know.

Will I sharpen yours. If you pay the freight I'll consider it.
 
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clamp your chainsaw by the bar in a sturdy vise. then file with good light and a nice pair jeweler's magnifying hood.

this is much better than sitting on chainsaw! frees up both hands and you can see exactly what angles you are filing.


Good tip about the jewelers magnifying glasses. Been using one for years while grinding chain, it helps alot!
 
To answer your question, the cutter length is referenced to the back of the cutter, not the front. Find the max typical damage, grind it off, make the rest the same left and right.

The depth of the rakers has much more to do with cutting crooked than the exact length of the cutter... hand filing of the rakers compensates for this; grinding the rakers does not. I always set my rakers by hand.

===

Andy can you explain this please. How does the depth of the rakes cause a saw to cut crooked??? TIA
 
For $10 a pop, I could learn to like grinding chains a lot! Two chains and I would have enough beer for a week..good beer too. I hand file mostly. On really rocked chains, I use a small 12v grinder to remove the damage, then hit it with a file. My big fear of sitting behind a grinder all day would be silicosis of the lungs. I would need a good air handling system and a good mask before I would grind chains all day.
 
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