Dolmar 510 Possible air leak.

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mitch95100

Saw Nut
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Feb 7, 2011
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Alrighty, I have a Dolmar ps 510 that I currently rebuilt, But heres the issue. When I hold it at WOT it doesn't jump at all... just a constant BRAAAAPPPP. But when its turned on its side it races. Now In my expirence that's a classic sign of an air leak, but what stumps me is that it holds at WOT just fine. I know air leaks do crazy things but what do you guys think? Also when I tore into it the bearings were tight and seals look A-ok, unless I missed some thing
 
Leak test ok? There was a recent thread on a vac tester, I think mitty vac or something.

7
 
Leak test ok? There was a recent thread on a vac tester, I think mitty vac or something.

7

When I tore it down it performed flawlessly under a leak test. Unless I some how discombooberated the base gasket and its leaking there after a rebuild. Or I did the leak test wrong... both are hard to acomplish:help:
 
I just re leak tested the saw, I was pushing 15 psi and spraying soapy water on seals and base gasket and all checked out good.
I do have a theory though. The intake boot is only held on the cylinder by a circular spring. I wonder if it was leaking around that conection, and if I were to coat the lip with three bond before I put it back together if it might fix my problem? the only other place it could leak is either the boot to the cylinder or the carb to the boot. the boot and impulse line both are fine (already checked). Or is their another cause to my issue with it running faster when its turned sideways? Something in the carb? Im at a loss.
 
You may have FLOATERS (glue that zama uses around the welch plugs) in the carb when you tip it on its side the floaters block the jet........ I take the top off the carb and scrape all the glue off and reassemble I believe this may be your issue...

Scott
 
You may have FLOATERS (glue that zama uses around the welch plugs) in the carb when you tip it on its side the floaters block the jet........ I take the top off the carb and scrape all the glue off and reassemble I believe this may be your issue...

Scott

Am i supposed to take the welch plug out, im assuming? Ive never had this issue on a chainsaw. Normally i use a plunger but in a case like this i might be better using a steel brush or something.
;p

Sent from me to you using my fingers
 
Am i supposed to take the welch plug out, im assuming? Ive never had this issue on a chainsaw. Normally i use a plunger but in a case like this i might be better using a steel brush or something.
;p

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Just scrape the outside edges of the welch plug with a pick or a small screwdriver, a little carb clean and some compressed air and you will be good, no need to remove the plug.. The Ethanol gas loosens the glue that zama uses and that ends up floating around in the chamber.


Scott
 
Ic. Thanks i will definitely try that and report back!!
Keep your fingers crossed.

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On the intake boot- I've never had an issue with that spring type thing at all. If I were to and wanted something different, I'd buy the intake clamps (like pipe clamps) from a bigger Husqy/Jons/Stihl) and use that. BUT, it seems to me you have other issues. First, check your fuel line / filter. If the fuel line has a stress crack that gets pulled open when the saw is turned it could open up, suck air and cause the issue...then close when sat upright. Also, make sure the fuel filter is loose and free and not hung up in the tank somewhere- same thing, it is submerged when upright but comes out of the fuel on its side, pulling air and raising RPMs like some saws do as they run out of gas. Next idea, do go ahead and clean your carb as mentioned. Something might be blocking the jet either restricting flow or making it so that you don't get proper atomization of the mix, so too liquid fuel can pool in the venturi and affect running. This is more an issue on earlier barrel valve carb types on weed eaters, but what the hell, may as well think about it!
 
Does the carb mount end of the intake boot have a little metal ring in it? The early production run 510 and 5100's didn't have the ring. The ring helps seal the carb to the boot better. I had a saw without the sealing ring and it acted the same way as your saw.
 
Does the carb mount end of the intake boot have a little metal ring in it? The early production run 510 and 5100's didn't have the ring. The ring helps seal the carb to the boot better. I had a saw without the sealing ring and it acted the same way as your saw.

No thats why i thought if i put a bit of three bond on it it may help?...

Sent from me to you using my fingers
 
No thats why i thought if i put a bit of three bond on it it may help?...

Sent from me to you using my fingers

Do not add and sealant between the carb and intake, you could clog the impulse passage. Try snugging the carb screws a little, if that doesn't work you may want to order a new boot and a sealing ring.
 
Ok gotcha! Mabey i should pressure test the boot hooked up to the saw and see if in fact thats where its leaking.

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