Dolmar/Makita accessories

[Four Paws]

Does Dolmar offer any accessories or 'special' packages on their saws? I mean, Stihl and Both advertise their heat handle versions. Dolmar offers heated handles on the 6400-7900 but you have to look in the IPL to see that it is available. Also, seems as if they don't offer dual buck spikes, or even longer spikes for the 5100. The short factory spikes struggle when used in thick barked trees! Seems that a pro saw (like the 5100S and the 7900) should have pro options advertised and readily available.

 

[Cut4fun]

Have you ever seen the dual spikes on the 6400,7300,7900 up close. Mine are plenty big. I even take them off when not bucking big wood, do to being to big IMO. Cant say about the 5100.

 

[Four Paws]

Have you ever seen the dual spikes on the 6400,7300,7900 up close. Mine are plenty big. I even take them off when not bucking big wood, do to being to big IMO. Cant say about the 5100.

Yeah, I want some of those 6400/7300/7900 spikes to fit my 5100

How about a full wrap handle for the 6400/7300/7900?? The lack of the upgrade accessories is the only drawback of the Dolmar saws. I like how Stihl has every part under the sun for their saws, and the fact that the wrap handles are pretty cheap.

 

[Four Paws]

Well, I am gonna revive this thread. I want a bigger buck spike for my 5100S. The factory spike is pretty useless in thick barked trees. So, give me a show of hands who is also interested? I am working on drawing up a bigger spike in AutoCAD. When I get the design done, I am going to talk with my local fab shop - they have a CNC plasma table - and will get a quote on what they will charge me to cut some out. I am guessing in the $15-$20 range, and that should include the steel. Anyone seriously interested, or am I alone on this one?

 

[sawinredneck]

Might want to wait for the Freak to come back, might be right up his alley!
Andy

 

[Four Paws]

Okay, I made some headway, got some proto-type spikes drawn up in AutoCAD. What do you guys think? The spike on the left is an exact replica of the Shindaiwa spike on the575/577 and 680/695 saws. The spike on the right is kind of Stihl-esque. The one in the middle...just something different. Anyhow, suggestions or comments are welcome. I am pretty serious about doing a run of 20 or so pieces if my quote comes back reasonable. So, who likes what, and who is interested enough to eventually buy one?

Josh

 

[Toneman]

Those look good Four Paws.
What material are you planning to use for them? Will they need to be heat treated?

 

[manual]

I like the one on the right, what if you were to make the forth tooth with the flat side up and tighten up the radious between 1 and 2 and 4 and 5.

 

[Four Paws]

Those look good Four Paws.
What material are you planning to use for them? Will they need to be heat treated?

A36 steel, and it shouldn't need to be heat treated. Don't know what material Dean at WHS is using on his new spikes for the Stihl saws, but For under $30 per set, it can't be anything too fancy.

I like the one on the right, what if you were to make the forth tooth with the flat side up and tighten up the radious between 1 and 2 and 4 and 5.

Yeah, I could do that. Why do you think I should tighten the radius up between 1&2 and 4&5? I kinda just went off a couple pictures of the Stihl spikes and tried to copy the look. Seems they have a big radius in the same location. Anything is possible, and changes are quick and easy at this point.

Thanks for the input! Anyone have an interest in a bigger spike for their 5100? Just asking as I will probably have some cut in the next 7-10 days.

Josh

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I like the one on the right too, not because I need one but because it looks like something that a Klingon would use in hand-to-hand combat on the Holodeck. :hmm3grin2orange:

Ian aka Kaargh

 

[manual]

A radius keeps the the stress areas from cracking IE corners and angles
the radius you are showing between 1&2 is more of a hook and could use more meat behind it for pull strength. You can gain about 4mm if you put a straight edge on the gullets between 2&3 and 3&4. (just draw a line the whole distance of the dog) now make your two radius's touching the line
you are showing about 17.463mm between 4&5 and lower mounting hole. you will gain 5mm.
May not sound like much but a quarter inch is more strength and also your radius will have more pull strength.

 

[Four Paws]

Final 3

Did some revisions to the previous spike designs. Here are my final 3 versions. I personally like the 2 on the outside best. The middle version isn't symmetrical and it throws me off - HA. Anyhow, please provide any final input, criticism, etc. I am going to have these cut on Thursday (I hope), and will post pics of them on my saw. I will have pricing then, and you guys can put your orders in if you are interested.

 

[Urbicide]

Hi 4 paws. Your dawg designs look real good.

 

[TopJimmy]

FWIW those all look great. I like the one on the left the best. I am curious to see how your pricing comes out. I don't use the dawgs on my 5100 much, but if the price is low enough, I will take a set.

Jim

 

[manual]

Now your talking great job.
I like the right one for where Live that would grip best.
Big bark Maybe the left one.
But I don't know where you live. You make the choice they all look great.

 

[Sojourner07]

Josh, did you ever get the new spikes made? I sent you an email on my interest in one, but don't know if you got it. Bill

 

[Four Paws]

I have currently hit a small road block on the spikes. Local fab shop has a CNC plasma table, and it didn't do too good on the tips of the 3/16 steel. In fact, the points of the spikes were rounded like #2 pencil erasers. So...no luck there. A local guy has a cnc water-jet. I approached him on several occasions, but couldn't appeal to his good nature. He makes a wide variety of "mass produced custom" hitch covers that are popular with red-necks that don't ever pull anything with their trucks, and raelly have no need for a trailer hitch. Anyhow, he also has a day job (needed to have health insurance) and only uses his water-jet for HIS stuff - he is taking on NO NEW WORK.

So, I had a quote out to another cutter (not local) that could do it with Water or Laser. My cost will be $22/spike and a minimum order of 20 spikes. Now, building these spikes will mean me investing more than I paid for my saw in hopes of selling them (at least a small profit) to help re-coup my cost. Would it be cool if I made them? Yes. Would anyone pay $26 shipped for one buck spike? Maybe. I had 4 guys that showed a candid interest...but not 19 like I need. LOL

So, that is where I stand. Looking to find a place to make them for me at a cheaper price. Wishing my local guy would throw some plate on his table and cut them for me...chances are I could get them down to $15ish if he would do it.

What do you guys think?

 

[TopJimmy]

I will do some checking. My wife works very part time (like 1-2 days a month on average) for the company she used to work full time for. They have a water jet and can cut from a cad program. Next time she works I will have her ask if they will do it for me and what it would cost. Hopefully they will have scrap that they can use, might ever have a high strenght light weight option since they primaraly sell to the airplane industry.

Jim

 

[Four Paws]

I will do some checking. My wife works very part time (like 1-2 days a month on average) for the company she used to work full time for. They have a water jet and can cut from a cad program. Next time she works I will have her ask if they will do it for me and what it would cost. Hopefully they will have scrap that they can use, might ever have a high strenght light weight option since they primaraly sell to the airplane industry.

Jim

Sounds great! Appreciate the help and interest!

Josh

 

[Rspike]

They are asking $22. to cut 1 spike or 2 ??? The provide the metal and what metal is it and how thick ?

FYI: Steel is around .84 cents a lbs right now ( if not bought in major bulk.)

EDIT: oops , old post. followed the link but didnt look at the date.