I hope this video helps you avoid an incredibly common, yet costly mistake!
Don’t Make This Expensive Mistake Rebuilding Your Saws!
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
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I hadn't thought about using caulk nozzles ,thanks for the tip! 
Saves a lot of trouble.I hadn't thought about using caulk nozzles ,thanks for the tip!
Yeah I like how quick, ridged and easy it is.
Dont tell Harley!Yeah I like how quick, ridged and easy it is.
As usual brilliant suggestions. Some people try to push a dry seal and the seal friction rolls it out. Glad you mentioned using grease to prevent this.
Another great video. Thank you.
You’re welcome, I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent well spoken video, with clear closeup shots. thanks!
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- Jan 21, 2023
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Thanks! I will be sure to use this trick on my 015 that I am rebuilding. It is cool how it has no gasket but is Dirkoed together.
Thank you
On things much larger than chainsaws, seal installation can require a bit more creativity. There's a $100 single purpose oil seal tool for the transfer case for my Silverado for a tricky two part oil seal that's easy to ruin on installation, and I refused to buy the special tool to complete my rebuild. Instead I poured resin to the right circumference, and using a hand held router with an 1/4" straight bit, and a 1 3/4" Forstner bit on my drill press, machined my own version of the tool. Worked perfect.
I use plastic pipe. Drink bottles also work from a two liter bottle. It also works on hydraulic seals and steel rings. The plastic will fit any size or surface without fear of damage from a tin can or aluminum cans.
I will use this tube tip method no doubt.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing the alternatives!
That’s awesome haha, love it
Funny, this video literally popped up in my youtube feed this morning. Now I come here, and here it is again lol.
If you watch closely the inner lip of that seal when you push it on you can see if it flips out.
If it does, you can bet the spring is off.
If it does, you can bet the spring is off.
Haven't heard that one before.Some of the small engine crankshaft seals for lawn tractors do not even have a spring inside now days. (and are suppose to be OEM seals but I suspect rebranded China clone stuff.
I've been removing the spring from the old seal and install it easily into the new replacement seal. I also started saving the old seal springs into a special parts drawer.
AND on the vertical shaft engines PTO shaft the seal will usually start leaking/seeping after just a few hours of use if they do not have the spring for the extra tension on the lip.
I can see the Chinaman smiling every time I see such.
Ronnie Milsap can see that not having a spring inside the seal lip is not a good thing..
I've been removing the spring from the old seal and install it easily into the new replacement seal. I also started saving the old seal springs into a special parts drawer.
AND on the vertical shaft engines PTO shaft the seal will usually start leaking/seeping after just a few hours of use if they do not have the spring for the extra tension on the lip.
I can see the Chinaman smiling every time I see such.
Ronnie Milsap can see that not having a spring inside the seal lip is not a good thing..
Yep, I have found all the 4 stroke small engines are single lipped seals without gator springs, but they don’t rely on holding vacuum, I guess that’s why?
