Dressing alternative for prune cuts and damage

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greenfoot

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What do people think of Gary Knowlton's recommendation to use blend of beeswax and orange oil for prune cuts and pure orange terpene oil for damage. Seems to make sense, probably not a magic bullet but with repeated treatment over the course of years could ward off vectors and slow decay while allowing the wound to breath while callus develops?

Feed-n-Wax (youtube)

Orange Terpene Oil (youtube)

Also have seen a study that lanolin oil improved the speed of wound wood by slowing dry out and die back.?
 
Most trees will heal themselves. I sometimes use latex paint on young trees to avoid sun scald.
 
I think the intent of the Gary Knowlton's approach is to assist with resistance to invaders and to suppress rot, the tree goes about it's business with less of those two issues.

I would imagine it is at least harmless, and maybe a little helpful in that regard (if kept up with over time). I'm a newbie to this and am just wondering if anyone has a particular concern or objection to the approach, understanding that tar based solutions and anything that traps moisture is not good, but this appears to be neither of those.
 
I'm watching this thread.

I have an old orchard that a few of the trees have large broken limbs to to a heavy wet snowstorm. I want to try to preserve the trees.

Will try to get pictures.
You need to cut them off at the branch collar. If not they will rot on into the tree.
The one on the left either broke or was pruned incorrectly. The one on the right is
what you want. C3C40CA8-148F-4FA6-A97A-51D7C1E0DD2C.jpeg890F1A1F-E652-4702-99E1-EED3263FF3E4.jpeg
 
What do people think of Gary Knowlton's recommendation to use blend of beeswax and orange oil for prune cuts and pure orange terpene oil for damage. Seems to make sense, probably not a magic bullet but with repeated treatment over the course of years could ward off vectors and slow decay while allowing the wound to breath while callus develops?

Feed-n-Wax (youtube)

Orange Terpene Oil (youtube)

Also have seen a study that lanolin oil improved the speed of wound wood by slowing dry out and die back.?
Never heard of him or the recipe. But here is what I hope will be considered a sound opinion. Citrus oils contain Limonene. Limonene is one of the few things that will kill fire ant colonies completely. (and other insects) Limonene/citrus oil should seriously discourage insect damage. The beeswax will help keep the limonene in place, also prevent damage and keep the wound from drying out as much, and that should speed healing somewhat. It is possible that citrus oils may have some fungicidal activity, but I've not read up on that. [also the main ingredient in GooGone]

The other suggestion, Copper Sulfate and lime: Copper is used on fruit trees in dormant state as a fungicide. The combination of Sulfur and lime, also known as Bordeaux spray when in suspension in water, is also a fungicide. Copper in higher concentration can cause burns. Copper Sulfate in water creates sulfuric acid. Even 1000 to 1 water to Copper can burn. (will burn green tissue) Normal Dormant spray is 8-12 lb copper in 400 gal water if memory serves.
1 lb in 100 gal water would be about 800 to 1.

Sulfur alone is a fungicide. Hydrated Lime is used to make mortar sticky and adhere.

Pure speculation: It might work to brush on sulfur, dry or if wet, let it dry, then put the citrus/beeswax over it.

As an aside:
{commercial orchard experience} We generally didn't treat wounds. Fungicides and insecticides (organic if that matters to ya) went on regularly for the crop, but also went on wounds. These are all "organic" suggestions, even though 3 of them are not defined as organic compounds in chemistry, but reality never deterred the "organic food" crowd.
 
Yes I've decided to use the Feed-n-Wax on prune cuts, and have seen an ant or two approach the wound and turn right around run the other way - at least it looked like that's what was happening.... :crazy2:
 
If you "dress" the wound, it'll keep moisture in there where it tend to cause rot issues. Trees tend to compartmentalize decay on their own without needing additional treatment. The branch collar releases phenolic compounds that prevent decay, so you'll want to leave the very base part of the branch.
 
If my understanding is correct, the beeswax/orange oil alternative is different in this regard in that the beeswax does allow the wood to breathe unlike the traditional petroleum or latex based dressings.
 
If my understanding is correct, the beeswax/orange oil alternative is different in this regard in that the beeswax does allow the wood to breathe unlike the traditional petroleum or latex based dressings
I don't think beeswax would be any better than traditional wound sealants. "Beeswax shows low water vapour permeability" https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0032591019306953 .
It's better to not apply any type of wound sealant or beeswax, since they will cause decay issues.
 

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