TreeCo said:
Odd. If it is on level ground if you step on the handle, the nose of the bar comes up a bit and the chain is clear of the dirt.
Harry K
drop starting
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Odd. If it is on level ground if you step on the handle, the nose of the bar comes up a bit and the chain is clear of the dirt.
Harry K
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
There has always been a corelation between the sissy type and the nut cracker start. lol
You know, the type that went to school and was taught how to use a saw by some shrubber who never moved beyond a Muckaluck or a Pukalon. lol
Anyway, drop starting is the safest and requires the least expenditure of effect except in confined quarters.
I also drop start my 088 with ease. It is basicly the technique that is used to drop start that counts.
I'm not really condemning the other methods. It is important to use the method that serves one best, however, you have to admit that the between the legs thing looks pretty ghey. I mean I'm sure woman wouldn't put a saw between their breast just to start it, however, it would be a sight.
John
You know, the type that went to school and was taught how to use a saw by some shrubber who never moved beyond a Muckaluck or a Pukalon. lol
Anyway, drop starting is the safest and requires the least expenditure of effect except in confined quarters.
I also drop start my 088 with ease. It is basicly the technique that is used to drop start that counts.
I'm not really condemning the other methods. It is important to use the method that serves one best, however, you have to admit that the between the legs thing looks pretty ghey. I mean I'm sure woman wouldn't put a saw between their breast just to start it, however, it would be a sight.
John
treeman82
Addicted to ArboristSite
I used to leave the saw running when it would hang from my saddle. Then one day Dennis Ryan saw me doing that, yelled at me about it, and that was the end of it. When the cut is done, the saw gets turned off. I may have broken that rule a few times though when I had my 044 hanging off my belt, but I know that hasn't happened many times. Like it's been said here already, you could accidentally bump into something and there goes that chain brake. Not to mention the fact that it makes more noise that you are going to have to hear over.
As for drop starting, I always drop start my 020. As for my rear handled saws, I have been trying to do the under the leg thing, but old habits die hard. When I remember to, I do behind the leg, otherwise its a drop start deal. Oh, and no matter what saw I may be starting, the chain brake is ALWAYS on. That's the last thing anybody needs, to be working on starting the saw and then all of a sudden you have the chain spinning at how many thousand RPM's?
As for drop starting, I always drop start my 020. As for my rear handled saws, I have been trying to do the under the leg thing, but old habits die hard. When I remember to, I do behind the leg, otherwise its a drop start deal. Oh, and no matter what saw I may be starting, the chain brake is ALWAYS on. That's the last thing anybody needs, to be working on starting the saw and then all of a sudden you have the chain spinning at how many thousand RPM's?
P_woozel
ArboristSite Guru
Drop starting isnt a good way to go, period. I do it, but I figure to hell with it I've been cutting for 20 years now, and I can replace a worn out starter cord. The on the ground thing dosnt work for guys up north in the winter, bunny boots dont fit well in the rear handle. The between the legs thing is accceptable and probably the way to go for women like treeco and those clowns. The soundest way to start a saw over 65cc is to rest the bar over a log and crank it up. To each his own some of you will learn some will hopefully not hurt yourselves to bad, but who cares your flatlander commies anyway. :umpkin:
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
For a treehoser that doesn't even know how to mix his own gas, I don't think you possess the credentials to be telling others how to start their saw. Don't make me get Ben Walker after you!P_woozel said:
Hahaha
reference: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=24372
P_woozel
ArboristSite Guru
Jonny boy, dont tell me that you have the reading comprehension level of Benny too? I would love to match skills with a saw with any of you clowns, with the exception of a couple of the Westside jacks I dont worry about a poor show. Ole benny another trust fund clown, likes to play worker, I never knew that how I made a living would become trendy and little rich mommas boys would play at it. :umpkin:
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tom-I used to freeclimb quite a lot on smaller diameter trees that I felt comfortable with, I made sure that my spurs were stuck in real good before I unclipped my steelcore for sure. Now that I am windfirming way out in the bush and work for someone else it is different. If I get badly hurt there it is no 20 minute ride to the big hospital. It is getting picked of the mountain in a helicopter, to the little airport, then medivaced 500 miles to Vancouver. It kind of sucks on the skinny trees but I can understand why my boss wants me to climb with 2 steelcores, I am not to stubborn and am changing my ways a bit. At this job I rarely one hand either because everthing can just drop. Also, he has got me in the habit of tying in before I top the tree, if something goes wrong I can just rappel down. On another topic=why haven't P woozels nasty comments been deleted? I called people names a while ago (treehugger, whiner etc.) and Begley deleted it and gave me ????, also banned me from the homeowner help forum. After thinking about it, I think he was sort of right. Recently I called those Petzl hats "pretty boy", even that is a little uncalled for but not a personal insult like clown. Justice must be handed out equally or the law is tarnished.
b
b
P_woozel
ArboristSite Guru
Delete my comments, hell why not the reason a lot of folks dont frequent this site much is due to the little gang of ????s that are constantly telling everyone how great they are and creating a environment that prevents learning and exchanging ideas, just cause I'm one of the few who is fed up with it dont make me a bad person just an ??????? with a plan. Gyppo, treeco, Darin, Ben, and a few others are dickheads, just cause they fell they are morally above the rest is why they are so pompous. Why not ban me from this lame ass site since I seem to be to stupid and thickheaded, I come back from thime to time thinking it has improved and just the same ???? again. Come on, does anyone have a clue? 
clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Easy to insult people when you are thousands of miles away, thems fightin words. Reminds me of something I read "before the internet the village idiot had to stay in his village" If my employer really wanted me to start a saw on the ground I would do it, but the handle right beside my bag, that is insanity.
Eagle1
ArboristSite Operative
There are many ways to get ideas, points across without disrespecting other or this site. No one and nothing is perfect. Whats the problem? just write, read, comment and learn.
I am not saying that anyone is dissing anyone. I just never understood getting all nervous and worked up from a web site....no that Rocky is gone of course.
PS. Maybe you are a clown :jester:
I am not saying that anyone is dissing anyone. I just never understood getting all nervous and worked up from a web site....no that Rocky is gone of course.
PS. Maybe you are a clown :jester:
smokechase II
Addicted to ArboristSite
Clearance:
I've never heard of any injuries from drop starting. But they sure are possible and without a doubt they have occurred. However, I've never seen a real logger in the West that didn't drop start.
A couple caveats. They always have the tip on a piece of wood, a stump or a log. (This posture makes starting actually easy on your body-if you have a 28"+ bar, or a reasonably tall stump or log). Secondly the throttle is not held on by either your throttle finger or a combo on/off/throttle/choke switch like most Stihls have. Everyone I know strongly recommends against starting a Stihl in the 3rd setting- by any method - as it fully winds the throttle without operator two hand control.
You can mitigate drop starting concerns by starting your saw with the chain brake engaged. But you have to be a good person and not throttle up at all or you'll wear out your chain brake early. If you find yourself having to start your saw with a little throttle you need to take the time to tune it, clean filters etc.
For learners, the other starting methods can be a good idea. Then later they go to carefully trained drop starting.
At this point a mitigation for new sawyers is to have them think about how they place their bar on that piece of wood. If the angle that the bar has is close to one that could kick back at the opertor have them change it by either moving the saw or their body or both. Best results most would say is to lay the bar flat, with the saw turned counterclockwise 90 degrees. Note that this saw position also makes pulling the cord quite easy.
Neither the on your thigh thing or just plain drop starting, I would suggest, should be used.
I've never heard of any injuries from drop starting. But they sure are possible and without a doubt they have occurred. However, I've never seen a real logger in the West that didn't drop start.
A couple caveats. They always have the tip on a piece of wood, a stump or a log. (This posture makes starting actually easy on your body-if you have a 28"+ bar, or a reasonably tall stump or log). Secondly the throttle is not held on by either your throttle finger or a combo on/off/throttle/choke switch like most Stihls have. Everyone I know strongly recommends against starting a Stihl in the 3rd setting- by any method - as it fully winds the throttle without operator two hand control.
You can mitigate drop starting concerns by starting your saw with the chain brake engaged. But you have to be a good person and not throttle up at all or you'll wear out your chain brake early. If you find yourself having to start your saw with a little throttle you need to take the time to tune it, clean filters etc.
For learners, the other starting methods can be a good idea. Then later they go to carefully trained drop starting.
At this point a mitigation for new sawyers is to have them think about how they place their bar on that piece of wood. If the angle that the bar has is close to one that could kick back at the opertor have them change it by either moving the saw or their body or both. Best results most would say is to lay the bar flat, with the saw turned counterclockwise 90 degrees. Note that this saw position also makes pulling the cord quite easy.
Neither the on your thigh thing or just plain drop starting, I would suggest, should be used.
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Gypo Logger said:
TreeCo said:
2Coilinveins
Former Member
This puerile bull???? should stay in HK.
spencerhenry
ArboristSite Operative
i have very rarely ever NOT dropped started a saw, and dont know that i have ever seen anyone else not drop start a saw. i do it all the time with all my saws. even the 066. and an 088, its a pig anyway, but drop starts just fine, though it is a little tiring if it doesnt start right away
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Al, that's a really nice looking saw. It's almost new!
That's a wicked looking stump though.
John
That's a wicked looking stump though.
John
Wow is that a PM6 or the PM6A, Al?Al Smith said:
JK, nice saw collection you have Al. I have seen several of your saw photo's on Mikes site. Which is that one of your 125's? My small PM6 I drop start, the 028,036 and 046 I start on the ground when they are cold, but once they have warmed up I will start the 028 and the 036 with the rear handle under my thigh.RedlineIt
ArboristSite Guru
Of course (!) on most TDs my saw runs between cuts, chain brake on. The time between cuts is less than thirty seconds, often more like five or ten seconds. The chainbrake plus the operator presence throttle lock out make most issues of unintended acceleration moot. Even if your chainbrake got disengaged it would take the conspiracy of two twigs to make the saw rev up, one to cleverly depress the lock-out and one to manage the throttle. (The throttle lock-out is working on your saw, isn't it?) I look at what I am hanging my saw into, if its clear near my hip, I let it idle. Why not? If it looks like the tree will make my next cut 60 seconds or more away, I'll shut it off, but just because I'm not a fan of two-stroke smoke.
If I'm pruning, the chainsaw is usually only for stubs, if I take it up at all. It hangs near the center of the tree, if I want it. I get a better cut from a sharp handsaw, and I can more clearly hear myself singing perverted lyrics to old Stones and Beatles tunes.
On any drop start, I snug the pull cord until the dogs get a grip and I can feel the engine is up against a compression, then pull smoothly through. The compression bump can be felt even with the de-comp engaged. Better on my joints and better for the saw. I see a lot of guys just yanking on pull-cords with no mechanical sympathy, not for the saws mechanisms nor their own. The abuse will tell, but the saw can be fixed for a couple of bucks, elbows are not so cheap to come by.
RedlineIt
If I'm pruning, the chainsaw is usually only for stubs, if I take it up at all. It hangs near the center of the tree, if I want it. I get a better cut from a sharp handsaw, and I can more clearly hear myself singing perverted lyrics to old Stones and Beatles tunes.
On any drop start, I snug the pull cord until the dogs get a grip and I can feel the engine is up against a compression, then pull smoothly through. The compression bump can be felt even with the de-comp engaged. Better on my joints and better for the saw. I see a lot of guys just yanking on pull-cords with no mechanical sympathy, not for the saws mechanisms nor their own. The abuse will tell, but the saw can be fixed for a couple of bucks, elbows are not so cheap to come by.
RedlineIt
RedlineIt
ArboristSite Guru
Well, now you're just pretending to be ignorant, surely.
Have I missed something?
RedlineIt.
Al Smith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep,that's a 125 with a 48" bar[143 drive links,.404].Just a point,you can't drop start a large saw.That thing tips the scales at around 40 lbs,with that long bar.It is so nose heavy you have to keep a foot in the handle to keep the nose out of the dirt.An 084,sporting a 42" bar is the same.Now I ask you who in their right mind would try to start one of those by drop starting?
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