Heat/ oxidizing agents are the main cause of problems that people experience with plant oils in lubrication/cooling applications. You can join many different forums from knife making,machining, etc. and read many different threads about the various pros and cons of what various oil do what. Just use canola oil, paraphrased them.
If you want actual practical experience, use canola oil if it is availible cheaper than peanut oil, and use peanut oil if field sprayed peanut oil covered clothes and tools will not cause anyone you know to have an allergic reaction and it is cheaper than canola.
I saw little to no advantage to one or the other as a bar lube, olive oil for me was free, seems a bit spendy if not free. Steamed off much faster, and produced the same crusty hard slime that any other plant based oil I have tried did.
Rancid seed oils are not good for people to eat or slather on their skins, probably not good for people to breathe, bare that in mind when saving out dated or improperly stored plants oils to be used as bar lube.
The list of non drying oils has a very specific qualifier, like most lists. Expand out to bio oils for lubrication and cooling. The additives put in commercial bio bar lubes are there to lengthen the oxidation time, etc., for commercial users, often sourced from used oils(yellow wax) to begin with which is why many were so expensive. If you are not a commercial user and are a spend thrift then clean the saw after use before storage, does not take very long and is good maintenance practice to begin with. Coat things with baby oil, if WD40 is against the rules. I used mineral spirits for cleaning, use the same batch for multiple cleanings, it will settle and can be decanted. A gallon lasts a long long time for this use.
Milled with canola, etc., less than 30" wide cuts needed to use an aux oiler wide open, other than that it worked fine, consumption was much greater than petroleum bar lubes.