Echo 2511T bar
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KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
I bought a 12” Stihl bar and chain for mine. I had to make the adjuster hole a little longer though. 5 minutes with a dremel and was done.
Change chain to something different. VXL Oregon is know for chatter, you can improve it tuning the chain. More chain options in 050, you can make what you have work well by using different chain.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
IMO .050 is too big for this saw. Its easy to stop the chain without pushing too hard. I’m not a fan of the 1/4” chain so i went with the .043 and it really cuts well.
thetoolnut
ArboristSite Operative
I got a 1/4" sprocket and a 10" .043 Sugihara pruning bar with mine. I'm running the stock Echo 10" 3/8p .050 bar and Oregon chain that the saw came with. I haven't had the chance to change out the sprocket yet. It cuts well but can chatter a bit in hard wood like Beech. The saw needs a slight adjustment on the L jet, she dies on idle sometimes. Otherwise i'm very happy the saw especially the light weight.
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Please post the part number on the bar. That would be a big help!I bought a 12” Stihl bar and chain for mine. I had to make the adjuster hole a little longer though. 5 minutes with a dremel and was done.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Yes...that was my biggest concern but it oils fine.
If you want go to a 14" bar, .043" gauge, 3/8" pitch, here's a part number: 3005 003 3909.
I have one of these bars and a few chains for my vintage Stihl 015 L. It's a dandy old top handle saw. Once again, the oiler hole may have to be modified for an Echo. Surprisingly, my Echo CS 3400 has no trouble running Stihl top handle 14" saw bars.
I have one of these bars and a few chains for my vintage Stihl 015 L. It's a dandy old top handle saw. Once again, the oiler hole may have to be modified for an Echo. Surprisingly, my Echo CS 3400 has no trouble running Stihl top handle 14" saw bars.
Hello all, so I picked up one of these little Echo CS2511T's myself and I'm having the same issue. Got it with the 14" bar and 91PXL chain. I was getting pissed trying to use it, it was getting snagged in the cut constantly even at full throttle and gently trying to ease it back in to the cut. If it didn't grab so hard it stopped or stalled then it was jumping like crazy. Can't be good for the life of the saw either all that chattering. I don't do trees every day so I'm not as knowledgeable as most here. My best guess was that the teeth were set way too aggressive and if I filed them back a bit and left the rakers maybe it would do ok, but doing that fresh out of the box really irked me.
I don't think I want to go with 1/4" because I'm afraid I could damage the chain or bar way too easy, so it sounds like maybe going with the .043 is the best idea. I found a bar/chain combo from Oregon that says it will fit the 2511T and it is .043 but it's still an Oregon chain, the 90PXL rather than the 91PXL. I'm afraid it might still chatter too much so I might want to go with a stihl anti-kickback chain on purpose instead. I know the Oregon option would fit, but again I'd rather not use their chain. So do I need to pick up one of the Stihl bars? I noted that the Stihl bar and the 61PM chain are 50 drive link, not 52 like the oregon. Is that a problem or does the stock echo sprocket run it ok because the Stihl bar geometry makes up for it so it runs the same? (modifying the oiler hole shouldn't be too hard, I have a dremel handy.)
*not worthy*
I don't think I want to go with 1/4" because I'm afraid I could damage the chain or bar way too easy, so it sounds like maybe going with the .043 is the best idea. I found a bar/chain combo from Oregon that says it will fit the 2511T and it is .043 but it's still an Oregon chain, the 90PXL rather than the 91PXL. I'm afraid it might still chatter too much so I might want to go with a stihl anti-kickback chain on purpose instead. I know the Oregon option would fit, but again I'd rather not use their chain. So do I need to pick up one of the Stihl bars? I noted that the Stihl bar and the 61PM chain are 50 drive link, not 52 like the oregon. Is that a problem or does the stock echo sprocket run it ok because the Stihl bar geometry makes up for it so it runs the same? (modifying the oiler hole shouldn't be too hard, I have a dremel handy.)
*not worthy*
It would be 61pmm3 and the bar will determine the number of drive links. The Stihl chain will run on brand x drive and nose sprockets in the above post. While I think the 0.043 3/8lp Stihl product is superior I doubt the Oregon one is grabby like you fear.
I have the stock 3/8 .50 14" Echo bar right now. I think I'd like to switch it to .043 but I'm not sure exactly what bar/chain combos will work together with the stock echo sprocket. (14" bar)
Can't say for certain if the 90PXL chain is grabby like the 91PXL & VXL chains are I guess but I've noted many others also not liking the 91 chains (OP included), thus I'd probably rather just avoid the 91 & 90 chains altogether unless someone noted the 90 .043 chain wasn't as grabby & prone to chatter as the 91.
Can't say for certain if the 90PXL chain is grabby like the 91PXL & VXL chains are I guess but I've noted many others also not liking the 91 chains (OP included), thus I'd probably rather just avoid the 91 & 90 chains altogether unless someone noted the 90 .043 chain wasn't as grabby & prone to chatter as the 91.
If I went with the Stihl bar & chain for 14" .043 is this what I want? (Its the 50 drive link, maybe that works fine with the Stihl bar? Just trying to avoid an expensive experiment.)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/STIHL-14...gWrPdNDi-bEtJz_1h_NSputVH0OXtb0xoCsp0QAvD_BwE
For running the echo 14" .043 bar (which I would have to buy, or the oregon one that fits this saw also in 14" .043) if I didn't want to run the Oregon 90PXL chain, which I kinda don't, there is a 52 drive link Stihl chain I found only at Baileys so they must custom make it, 61PMM352. Which would theoretically run on either the echo or oregon 14" .043 bars since it's got the same number of drive links, I think.
So these seem like the best two options I can come up with (in .043) with my limited knowledge. I'm not sure if the Stihl bar & chain combo with the 50DL works just fine with the factory sprocket or not though.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/STIHL-14...gWrPdNDi-bEtJz_1h_NSputVH0OXtb0xoCsp0QAvD_BwE
For running the echo 14" .043 bar (which I would have to buy, or the oregon one that fits this saw also in 14" .043) if I didn't want to run the Oregon 90PXL chain, which I kinda don't, there is a 52 drive link Stihl chain I found only at Baileys so they must custom make it, 61PMM352. Which would theoretically run on either the echo or oregon 14" .043 bars since it's got the same number of drive links, I think.
So these seem like the best two options I can come up with (in .043) with my limited knowledge. I'm not sure if the Stihl bar & chain combo with the 50DL works just fine with the factory sprocket or not though.
It really was a bit of a mistake. Oregon know well that having a long heel is going to introduce vibration and resistance. Clipping the heel of the cutter and grinding the tooth down goes a long way to solving the chatter. But the best way really is to avoid VXL on anything below maybe 32-36cc or so. It works well on our Echo 361WES(rear handle version), but I can still feel it in the cut wanting to grab.
If he’s using .050 now then all he needs is a .043 bar and chain.
KenJax, I picked up a 14" Stihl bar today, the 3005-000-3909 I believe both the 3005-000-3905 and the 3909 normally fits a 192T & various others, but I have a question.
Full Chizel I think you are right; I also double checked the sprocket on a 192T I had, and it lines up perfectly with the echo 2511T's sprocket. So it seems like I'm on the right track here (finally, maybe I'm a little slow haha.) I got the 50 drive link 61pmm .043 chain to go with the Stihl 14" bar noted above. They had green label 61pmm chain. If I want to drive a bit more I can get yellow label if it would run better, not sure on that little detail.
Anyway, my question is, KenJax would you be so kind as to show a picture of how exactly you modified your bar? I want to do it exactly how you did so I don't screw it up!
I did it too i will get some pics later and post them. All i did was make the slot longer toward the tip. Try putting the bar on the saw before you modify it and you’ll see exactly what you need to do
