CbusRog
ArboristSite Lurker
I recently got what I thought was a decent deal on a new (NOS?) 156 from a dealer in the city where I live. Build date is 12/09. It was sitting on a shelf along with a 152 and 137. All the saws had dust on them, but was told the 156 was on the shelf for probably four months. It was the only one they had in stock. It was tagged for $459, but I got it for $445. They through in the large Efco carrying case for $14.
They fueled it up and started it, letting it warm up for about five minutes. The guy made some adjustments on the carb screws before handing it off to me and sending me on my way.
The saw starts fine, 4-strokes a little at WOT and smooths out in the cut. WOT rpm tachs at 12,700. I'm still breaking it in, so no real complaints except its a little slow to accelerate. I'd like to fatten up the Low screw a tad, but it's already at the limiter stop (no surprise). So I took the top cover off to assess the situation and observed that the High screw was also at the rich stop. That doesn't concern me so much as I usually cut in warmer weather and by then the saw will be broken in and I'll probably need to lean it up a bit.
Anyhow, as much as I'd like to just cut the limiter tabs off and be done with it, I'm concerned about warranty issues. I'd like to re-index the Low limiter by maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn rich. Is there an elegant way of removing a limiter that doesn't involve a drywall screw? My Internet searches only came up with a tool that can be used on some Huskys.
Speaking of warranty issues, while inspecting the carb, I noticed that the diaphragm cover gasket looked wet. I dabbed my finger tip on it and it was indeed wet and smelled of fuel. It's not dripping wet. Damp or weeping would best describe it. No way to tighten the screws without removing the carb.
Would it be best to approach the dealer with what I found and why I found it, expressing my concerns about the slow acceleration, and let them deal with it? I guess I'd find out if they'd run interference for me, or toe the company line. For what it's worth, I live about 100 miles from Emak's USA headquarters.
Thanks for listening.
They fueled it up and started it, letting it warm up for about five minutes. The guy made some adjustments on the carb screws before handing it off to me and sending me on my way.
The saw starts fine, 4-strokes a little at WOT and smooths out in the cut. WOT rpm tachs at 12,700. I'm still breaking it in, so no real complaints except its a little slow to accelerate. I'd like to fatten up the Low screw a tad, but it's already at the limiter stop (no surprise). So I took the top cover off to assess the situation and observed that the High screw was also at the rich stop. That doesn't concern me so much as I usually cut in warmer weather and by then the saw will be broken in and I'll probably need to lean it up a bit.
Anyhow, as much as I'd like to just cut the limiter tabs off and be done with it, I'm concerned about warranty issues. I'd like to re-index the Low limiter by maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn rich. Is there an elegant way of removing a limiter that doesn't involve a drywall screw? My Internet searches only came up with a tool that can be used on some Huskys.
Speaking of warranty issues, while inspecting the carb, I noticed that the diaphragm cover gasket looked wet. I dabbed my finger tip on it and it was indeed wet and smelled of fuel. It's not dripping wet. Damp or weeping would best describe it. No way to tighten the screws without removing the carb.
Would it be best to approach the dealer with what I found and why I found it, expressing my concerns about the slow acceleration, and let them deal with it? I guess I'd find out if they'd run interference for me, or toe the company line. For what it's worth, I live about 100 miles from Emak's USA headquarters.
Thanks for listening.
