Face cuts.

[youknowwho]

Ive noticed that almost every body makes face cuts when blocking down a tree. But you should try just cutting straight though when blocking. its way faster and pieces dont really tear. It works really good, on removels of coarse.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

You'll never get a tear from no face cut?

i think next time you play with your home lobotomy kit; you shouldn't jsut have it set on stun.:biggrinbounce2:

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Especially on larger wood it is easier to control seperation if you have a hinge.

I like to shaker the stem as i make my back cut to see how loose it is so i get a good idea when to push it off.

 

[youknowwho]

Sure some tear but only tear a little lip. And it helps you know exactly when the peice will detatch because you can see the the holding wood.

 

[Sprig]

Am I wrong or does this sound dangerous, ie. not much directional control and the possibility of the block rolling on the edge as it goes over. I've cut weee saplings without notches, just push 'em over but this sounds like bad stuff for larger wood especially if you're up a tree doin' it. The face is there for direction, control, and to prevent adverse splitting is it not? Just wonderin' as it doesn't feel right to me and smells of bad advice.
My0.02$ worth fer da mornin'
Oh ya, saw pinching comes to mind too.

 

[youknowwho]

I agree that it sound a little wild, but its not

And I stated that trying it will help i never stated to stop making face cuts.

 

[Sprig]

I agree that it sound a little wild, but its not

And I stated that trying it will help i never stated to stop making face cuts.

Help what???
Has youknowwho been into a bit of the youknowwhat?

:help:

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

 

[youknowwho]

its not as dangerous as it sounds.

 

[rbtree]

What length section are you referring to? With 3-5 foot sections, I cut straight through, using a wedge if the block is heavy. 3-7 or so feet, I might use a mismatch cut. After that, I use a face and backcut, and, depending on the weight and vertical orientation of the section, a pull line.

This 16-20 foot section I hinged and pushed over:

There's a pull line on this section, with what's left of a 140 foot hemlock wedged betwixt the two leaders:

 

[youknowwho]

Ya small sections 2-3 feet long

 

[youknowwho]

140 foot hemlock, C'mon 140 feet,

 

[murphy4trees]

hi forrest!

Ya we know who...
It is Forrest again!
"not as dangerous as it sounds"... now those are words right out of Forrest's mouth (or keyboard actually).....

ps... good to see some of the old heads are still posting here... I've been lurking about a bit over the last few days...

and how ya doing forrest?

 

[youknowwho]

murph, have you imagined this technique or are you just crapping on me because it never dawned on you?

 

[youknowwho]

For every one that doubts this idea.


So that means that i Either worked for the one climber in the world that could do this saftley?

Or im mistaken 1000 times over, by which i mean watching a climber do this almost every day with no ill effects is WHAT, a fluke, Mistake?

And my climber uses notches and face cuts all the time just not every time.

 

[Ekka]

Youknowwho, are you suggesting we cut almost through the block/section leaving a little wood at the circumference and it hinges on that?

 

[JTinaTree]

I never use a face cut when blocking down 3-5ft sections,too time consuming, always use a vertical snapcut. It leaves just enough wood to hold the piece while you hang your saw. Then I just push it over in the direction cut. However I would probably use a face on bigger pieces though 10ft+. Would'nt want it coming back over on me..

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Well, i know of at least 1 climber who has had a 'peel' from a no face catch their lanyard scarily; how many does it take?

This can be a powerful technique; but not a good blanket statement IMLHO.

 

[geofore]

no notch?

Ive noticed that almost every body makes face cuts when blocking down a tree. But you should try just cutting straight though when blocking. its way faster and pieces dont really tear. It works really good, on removels of coarse.

Depending on your saws/chains performance you might get away with it for awhile. If your saws have the hp to get it done you'll have the pieces (small) ride the bar, as the piece is cut through the chain grabs the wood and takes it off the end of the bar. This only works if you have no concern on the divits you leave in the sod and your groundman is clear of the landing zone. You don't mind throwing a chain off once in awhile? It's apt to get pinched now and then. The bigger the pieces the less control you have and the more apt the pieces are to tip over back onto you as the saw kicks them out on the bottom first. Use it if you like but I don't recommend it. This work is about controling the wood's decent to the ground and where the saw is so you and the groundman don't get hurt.

 

[stumpjumper83]

I think that your running a danger of splitting the trunk if your cutting anything with any amount of favor. Even more so with some species in cold weather. I split a good (veneer) black cherry because of this. It was a head leaner with a medium to heavy top, and i didn't want it to crash down. Instead the first 12' were cracked. Opps lost some duckets on that cut.

 

[beowulf343]

So you just cut till your saw pinches then push the chunk over? Like spidey said, having that chunk rip over and tear down onto my lanyard worries me a bit. For me, snap cuts on little stuff or crane jobs, otherwise everything gets notched and back cut. After doing it a few thousand times and with a sharp chain-it doesn't take that much longer.
Do you use this method if your dropping a chunk onto a false crotch?