Finally, first time milling

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So, I had the oaks dropped off at my place yesterday. Considering its going to be my first time milling, I need some advice. I cut the ends off the logs and it looks to me that I might have some issues. They have been sitting for 2 years, so normal rot has started. One log looks like it has a crack all the way up the length of it. I would still like to mill it, just not sure which way I should start. Keep the crack in the middle so my slabs have the "cracked look" down the middle and i'll butterfly them, or try to cut opposite way and try to throw the crack out with one of the slabs.
I'd roll the log 90 degrees so I wouldn't have the crack in it, mainly because depending on how deep it is, could cut the slabs then go to pick them up then be screwed if the slabs just break in half.
 
I'd roll the log 90 degrees so I wouldn't have the crack in it, mainly because depending on how deep it is, could cut the slabs then go to pick them up then be screwed if the slabs just break in half.

I was thinking the same thing. I just needed to hear it from someone else so I knew it would be the right route to go. haha, Thank you.
 
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg I used my csm for the first time yesterday. I have a stihl 044 with a 36 inch bar and Carlton full chisel chain. I know the saw is small and the chain isn't ideal but I got a good deal on the saw and I bought a 100 ft roll of chain on impulse.
The first logs I got were poplar, and I was very eager to get started since it takes a few years to dry.
I milked them at 2-1/2 inches. They were loaded on my trailer with a 4 loader but I had to drag them off with a 4 wheeler and then turn them with the log roller and use a chain come a long to winch them and o boy was that exhausting.
A few things I've been thinking about while reading today....
I cut the logs close to the same length as my ladder so when I started and ended the saw was probably not straight.
Also the wood was so wet that despite using a leaf blower to blow the sawdust off, a lot of it was still stuck on there. So I had a lot of drag on the mill( I did hAve it on an incline though).
So I have a few adjustments to make but it is very rewarding getting to see the grain after each cut.
I'm getting two trailer loads of oak this weekend. Can't wait
 
Looks like you all had fun, I went to mill saturday, actually had a friend with me to help which was nice. Well except for i got the logs ready to go, was making the first cut and one of the damn nuts on the cover came off yet again:angry: In doing that, the little spur drive adjustment thing that tightens and loosens the chain broke. Would of been a simple fix(I believe) if any of the stihl dealers had one in stock.
 
Good work Mives.

Also the wood was so wet that despite using a leaf blower to blow the sawdust off, a lot of it was still stuck on there. So I had a lot of drag on the mill( I did hAve it on an incline though).

I use the logs rails for every cut to avoid this problem. It also means I can locate the wedges and hammer on top of the slab being cut as the mill passes over the top of them.
Next time you are buying a roll of chain think about using semi chisel as you will get a better finish.

Nicefinish.jpg
 
First log stacked and stickered. 2nd log I wasn't so lucky with. I cut the end off and stuck my wedge into the crack and the log split right down the middle.
IMG_2258.jpg IMG_2259.jpg IMG_2260.jpg IMG_2261.jpg IMG_2262.jpg
 
Need some info on stickering. I used some 2x4 I cut into strips, and also used some AZEK cut into strips. Will this be okay?
 
Need some info on stickering. I used some 2x4 I cut into strips, and also used some AZEK cut into strips. Will this be okay?
From what I've read you want to use dry hardwood and not 2x4's because they could stain the wood from the moisture in them I believe, maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I got a bunch of free wood off craigslist awhile ago, most was pretty crappy and didn't feel like dealing with it, luckily I hadn't burned it all yet, been using it.
 
Need some info on stickering. I used some 2x4 I cut into strips, and also used some AZEK cut into strips. Will this be okay?

Stickers should be placed right at the ends of each board and no more than about 18" apart for thin boards and ~24" for thicker boards
The stickers should also be place directly under each other.
 
Time to mill another Red Oak. This time the tree is freshly cut and hasn't sat for a while. Cant wait to see how it looks.

IMG_2383.jpg
 
Any chance anyone could tell me how much these slabs are worth?? About 18in wide, 8.5ft long and 2.5in thick. And also 18in wide, 8.5ft long, and 4in thick. Red OakIMG_2254.jpg
 
Any chance anyone could tell me how much these slabs are worth?? About 18in wide, 8.5ft long and 2.5in thick. And also 18in wide, 8.5ft long, and 4in thick. Red OakView attachment 541816
Each on is worth the$ a buyer is willing to pay. Nice work, & ain't that new fresh wet grain beautiful! You will b better of getting something to seal the ends of the logs prior to slicing them up. Less time than sealing after, to lessen end splits. Those splits r caused by shrinkage (moisture loss) happening in the end grain faster than cross grain which retains size longer thereby causing difference. End seal brings air dry closer to same down the length of each board. Safe, happy milling 2 Ya
 
Each on is worth the$ a buyer is willing to pay. Nice work, & ain't that new fresh wet grain beautiful! You will b better of getting something to seal the ends of the logs prior to slicing them up. Less time than sealing after, to lessen end splits. Those splits r caused by shrinkage (moisture loss) happening in the end grain faster than cross grain which retains size longer thereby causing difference. End seal brings air dry closer to same down the length of each board. Safe, happy milling 2 Ya

Oh yea I have sealed the ends shortly after I slabbed them up.
 

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