Finally milled my big oak tree

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TheLaundryMan

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It died in the great freeze of ‘21 and I left it standing for a while but when it started dropping branches it had to go. Some of the best looking oak I’ve ever seen. Little bit of rot from leaving it for so long but not bad.

First time I’ve taken the bark off before milling and it did wonders for the chain staying sharp. Anyone else out there debarking before milling? If so how do you do it? I did it with an ax and it was not fun.

Hope everyone has a great weekend! 92C60FEC-6C19-4511-98F2-C0CC6C7B451B.jpeg416B1742-C327-4C21-ADC8-0EF6A4DC0040.jpegC4508DF4-1273-4E2F-9DBD-D9951444C9DA.jpeg1AD3A40C-CAA8-48D0-A20B-86A094F2757B.jpeg
 
Wow. That does look nice.

I picked up a debarker you attach to a small chainsaw on Amazon. Chinese stuff, but much easier than anything else.
I got the kind you use a belt instead of a bar and longer chain. Works fantastic to start. Can't speak for the longevity yet.
 
A crowbar or a machete, you want to pry it off but its easier before its dry.
 
Wow. That does look nice.

I picked up a debarker you attach to a small chainsaw on Amazon. Chinese stuff, but much easier than anything else.
I got the kind you use a belt instead of a bar and longer chain. Works fantastic to start. Can't speak for the longevity yet.
Something like this? https://a.co/d/2AnOjWX

I thought about one of these. Felt like those blades would dull faster than a chain saw but maybe I’m overthinking it.

Also forgot to mention I was able to make 3 cuts without any notable dulling of my teeth and then the 4th cut on the lower portion of the rot it dulled a lot suddenly. From the other oaks similar size I’ve milled it would have been ignorant to make two cuts without touching up the chain between each one
 
That's the darkest Oak I've ever seen. Red or white family? Looks like a nice smooth cut, too.
Red. Where I’m at most of the oak is this dark. I did pour water on it to make the grain show better after I took a picture and said man this doesn’t do justice for what it really looks like
 
Something like this? https://a.co/d/2AnOjWX

I thought about one of these. Felt like those blades would dull faster than a chain saw but maybe I’m overthinking it.

Also forgot to mention I was able to make 3 cuts without any notable dulling of my teeth and then the 4th cut on the lower portion of the rot it dulled a lot suddenly. From the other oaks similar size I’ve milled it would have been ignorant to make two cuts without touching up the chain between each one
Similar. The one I got attaches where the bar is. That type you have to drill 2 holes in the bar.
Cleaned off a bunch of bark and haven't had to sharpen/change blades yet. Most/all use regular power planer blades too.
 
This is what I have. Got orange by chance, nice that it matches the saw.
It's a belt driven planer head on an arm.
So far it works fantastic. Exponentially faster than an ax or chisel or even a chainsaw.
This is China quality. I didn't find anything that was the same design but good quality on amazon. May be something somewhere else?
There is a Forrester brand one that attaches to your bar, but I prefer this type. The Forrester is more expensive, maybe better quality alloy/insides? Comes with a case too.
Couple of notes. Probably applies to all of them, not just this one.

The clutch is always engaged because the drive pulley (instead of drive sprocket) is too long for the shaft. It won't spin free of the clutch. The bearing it comes with is identical in size to the one I have on my Husky 152. So if the saw is running the planer head is spinning. A little harder to start in the cold because of the extra mass the engine has to spin right off the bat. You could machine it down, I may in the future, but the planer head doesn't naturally rest, it sits up.

You want to remove the pulley on the planer head and put some BLUE (medium strength) loctite on the threads. Mine broke loose when I first started the saw and went flying. You'll need a spanner wrench to loosen and tighten it. A pair of needle nose won't cut it IMO. The other end of the shaft is a 19? mm bolt head.

The 2 pulleys don't line up. Whoever designed this wasn't thinking very well. Probably thought this would sit at the same position as the ones that attach to the bar.
Not the end of the world. Will eat up the belts faster. Mine came with an extra one. I need to figure out the length so I can get a few more spares. I may cut and weld this so it lines up down the road. Probably when I get tired of buying belts.
 

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This is what I have. Got orange by chance, nice that it matches the saw.
It's a belt driven planer head on an arm.
So far it works fantastic. Exponentially faster than an ax or chisel or even a chainsaw.
This is China quality. I didn't find anything that was the same design but good quality on amazon. May be something somewhere else?
There is a Forrester brand one that attaches to your bar, but I prefer this type. The Forrester is more expensive, maybe better quality alloy/insides? Comes with a case too.
Couple of notes. Probably applies to all of them, not just this one.

The clutch is always engaged because the drive pulley (instead of drive sprocket) is too long for the shaft. It won't spin free of the clutch. The bearing it comes with is identical in size to the one I have on my Husky 152. So if the saw is running the planer head is spinning. A little harder to start in the cold because of the extra mass the engine has to spin right off the bat. You could machine it down, I may in the future, but the planer head doesn't naturally rest, it sits up.

You want to remove the pulley on the planer head and put some BLUE (medium strength) loctite on the threads. Mine broke loose when I first started the saw and went flying. You'll need a spanner wrench to loosen and tighten it. A pair of needle nose won't cut it IMO. The other end of the shaft is a 19? mm bolt head.

The 2 pulleys don't line up. Whoever designed this wasn't thinking very well. Probably thought this would sit at the same position as the ones that attach to the bar.
Not the end of the world. Will eat up the belts faster. Mine came with an extra one. I need to figure out the length so I can get a few more spares. I may cut and weld this so it lines up down the road. Probably when I get tired of buying belts.
I see. Thanks! Hadn’t seen this type before. I also like how you don’t have to sacrifice a whole bar for it. I feel like that has many advantages over the type that bolts onto a bar
 
Yeah, that was my thoughts as well. Also didn't want to mess with potential wrong gauge/pitch issues with a longer chain from a company that has no clue about them (see the offset on my 2 pulleys).
 
I like the little spikey drum, and would dedicate it to a 40 cc cheapo saw.

You mention rot? I think the rot you got was in the tree, long before it died....
 
It died in the great freeze of ‘21 and I left it standing for a while but when it started dropping branches it had to go. Some of the best looking oak I’ve ever seen. Little bit of rot from leaving it for so long but not bad.

First time I’ve taken the bark off before milling and it did wonders for the chain staying sharp. Anyone else out there debarking before milling? If so how do you do it? I did it with an ax and it was not fun.

Hope everyone has a great weekend! View attachment 1054852View attachment 1054853View attachment 1054854View attachment 1054855
What's that chunk in the lower rot hole in the last picture?

Second rot hole down from the top. Look close inside the hole. Looks like a big chunk of metal....
 
What's that chunk in the lower rot hole in the last picture?

Second rot hole down from the top. Look close inside the hole. Looks like a big chunk of metal....
I don’t know! I’ll have to check it out tomorrow. That definitely looks like a big chunk of metal. This tree is from my front yard in city limits so who knows what could be in there. I considered it a miracle I didn’t hit any nails
 
This is what I have. Got orange by chance, nice that it matches the saw.
It's a belt driven planer head on an arm.
So far it works fantastic. Exponentially faster than an ax or chisel or even a chainsaw.
This is China quality. I didn't find anything that was the same design but good quality on amazon. May be something somewhere else?
There is a Forrester brand one that attaches to your bar, but I prefer this type. The Forrester is more expensive, maybe better quality alloy/insides? Comes with a case too.
Couple of notes. Probably applies to all of them, not just this one.

The clutch is always engaged because the drive pulley (instead of drive sprocket) is too long for the shaft. It won't spin free of the clutch. The bearing it comes with is identical in size to the one I have on my Husky 152. So if the saw is running the planer head is spinning. A little harder to start in the cold because of the extra mass the engine has to spin right off the bat. You could machine it down, I may in the future, but the planer head doesn't naturally rest, it sits up.

You want to remove the pulley on the planer head and put some BLUE (medium strength) loctite on the threads. Mine broke loose when I first started the saw and went flying. You'll need a spanner wrench to loosen and tighten it. A pair of needle nose won't cut it IMO. The other end of the shaft is a 19? mm bolt head.

The 2 pulleys don't line up. Whoever designed this wasn't thinking very well. Probably thought this would sit at the same position as the ones that attach to the bar.
Not the end of the world. Will eat up the belts faster. Mine came with an extra one. I need to figure out the length so I can get a few more spares. I may cut and weld this so it lines up down the road. Probably when I get tired of buying belts.
I've never seen a belt driven one like this. Much better then the chain drives imho. My drill is chain drive but it is used a lot less and under much less load. This was made to fit a chop saw is my best guess not a chainsaw.
 
What's that chunk in the lower rot hole in the last picture?

Second rot hole down from the top. Look close inside the hole. Looks like a big chunk of metal....
It was a puddle of water from making the grain show for the picture. I unstacked them to get to it, was confused because it was for sure the same log. But that hole looked completely different. Then zoomed in even closer on the picture, then locked at the log in front of me again
 
How about Black Oak?
I can send pictures of the 3 other tree that are exactly the same as this one. No leaves yet. Central texas-college station specifically. We have 4 types of oak common here. Water oak, post oak. Live oak. And then this one which I’ve never heard anything more than just calling it an oak tree. It wasn’t until finding this awesome site did I learn there were more than 5 types of oak trees haha. And I wouldn’t put money a single one of those I names are correct. I just know it’s what I’ve always heard them called
 

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