So that was pretty well it for the first log. I slabbed up the second log, 2" slabs and was happy with the results of that as well. Now that i know this will work for me i can head back overseas and start planning the projects I need to get done when I return next year. I'm looking forward to this new addiction.
If you're anything like most of us on here, that's going to be a LONG trip overseas. At least you're going during the winter when you wouldn't get a whole lot done anyway. As for the rough exit cut, are you referring to what's visible on the near end of the beam in the "Milling 12.jpg" photo? It's a bit small and hard to tell, but I have a couple ideas and suggestions.
Are you making sure to use kerf wedges to hold the kerf open while you're cutting? I can see you're using a felling wedge in the one picture to hold the end open. However it is really beneficial to find some junk two-by blocks and run them thru the tablesaw to make strips that are approximately the same width as the kerf of the saw chain. I have some that are exactly the same, and a few that are maybe 1/32" thicker. I pound one of these wedges into the cut every 2-4 feet, depending on the size and length of the log. If you don't use wedges like this, the weight of the top slab being cut off is resting on the bar and chain, and as you finish your exit cut it will push down on the rear part of the bar which is still in the cut, causing the returning chain to dig into both pieces near the end. There are other downsides to not wedging too, not the least of which is a potentially rougher and less accurate cut.
The other thing I noticed is that you have the crossbar (what the handle is mounted to) set quite wide. This appears to be OK for the cuts involving the guide board, as ideally you want the crossbar to be near the center of whatever surface the mill is riding on. However it appears to be set too wide for the last cut where the mill was only riding on the 6" beam surface. If the crossbar isn't riding on the same surface as the mill, the mill will want to "drop out" as soon as the leading rail passes over the end of the log/cant/board that it's riding on, causing the end bite that you described. I also find that it helps to enter and exit the cut while holding the mill at an angle. I enter with the powerhead end forward so that the cut starts right up against the guide shoes, and exit the cut in the opposite fashion, holding the powerhead back while pushing the nose out. The biggest advantage I find doing this is that it enhances the stabilizing factor of the crossbar, because it's contacting a wider area of wood, though no more surface area of course, and the guide rails are less wont to tip and wobble if you're pushing slightly forward on them instead of perpendicular to them.. This is especially relevant on narrow cuts, such as taking 2X4s off a cant. The other advantage is that if there is any dropout it is localized to one corner of the cut instead of across the whole end - this is less helpful on narrower cuts obviously.
PS - where ya at in the Okanagan? I was down in Kelowna a couple days after that monster windstorm in July, green with envy over whoever was lucky enough to get to clean up all the walnut, oak, maple, etc. trees that I saw down in yards.
