Firewood Gathering: Tips of the Trade
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Same here. I haul the biggest pieces I can get on the truck and then try to split them as I unload.
Tip: PICKAROON! I delayed buying one for years due to the cost. First time I used it I kicked my fundament for waiting and now you would have to pry it out of my cold, dead hands.
I can unload half the the bed of my PU without ever crawling up into it. Doesn't even count the 'walk along rolling a round with it' vice stooping over manually rolling one.
Harry K
BluCllrSchlr
ArboristSite Member
Harry, I second what you said on the pickaroon. I would never have guessed how much I use it. I can't take credit for buying it, my grandfather had it. I painted the head of it fluorescent chartreuse after I left it behind once. That didn't stop me from leaving it behind once more, but it was there when I went back.
dimer11
ArboristSite Lurker
My biggest tip would be to always have a cell phone on you... i use an old one (last years model before i upgraded my plan) on me when i'm cutting. tho it don't work or get reception i can still dial 911 if me or one of my buddies get hurt
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Pickaroon
Great idea about the pickaroon for unloading wood out of a truck. For those of you with toppers on your truck box, which results in difficulty reaching items ahead of the wheel wells, my dad came up with something similar. It is a 1" square piece of oak about 40 inches long with a 4" bolt attached to one end. He also has placed 2 1-1/4" hex bolts, one on each side of the long bolt (but from the other way), to reinforce the wood and keep it from splitting when hooking and pulling a heavy item from the front of the box. Leave it in your truck all the time and I guarantee it will become the first thing you reach for when you need to get something that is near the truck cab. Sure beats having to crawl up into the box to retrieve that chainsaw that has slid forward during transport.
Great idea about the pickaroon for unloading wood out of a truck. For those of you with toppers on your truck box, which results in difficulty reaching items ahead of the wheel wells, my dad came up with something similar. It is a 1" square piece of oak about 40 inches long with a 4" bolt attached to one end. He also has placed 2 1-1/4" hex bolts, one on each side of the long bolt (but from the other way), to reinforce the wood and keep it from splitting when hooking and pulling a heavy item from the front of the box. Leave it in your truck all the time and I guarantee it will become the first thing you reach for when you need to get something that is near the truck cab. Sure beats having to crawl up into the box to retrieve that chainsaw that has slid forward during transport.
Bowsaw Outlaw
ArboristSite Member
My $.02...
-I keep a small plastic or wood felling wedge in my back pocket for cutting huge trunk rounds on the ground, get about half way through your cut and slam the wedge in the top and finish without pinching the bar.
-I keep a big wire brush with me to clean off large amounts of dirt and rocks that might accumulate on the tree if I cut where land has been cleared by Dozers or other heavy machines. Saves chains and bars.
-Paint you tools you take to the field a bright color. I like to paint mine blaze orange because it doesn't blend with anything on the ground here and is easy to spot. I hate loosing things like wedges, files, bar tools, ect....
-I like to carry a large chain with me just incase I need to manipulate the tree in some way on the ground I can use my truck to do so.
-"CUT SAFE!" If something doesn't feel right in your gut don't do it.
-I keep a small plastic or wood felling wedge in my back pocket for cutting huge trunk rounds on the ground, get about half way through your cut and slam the wedge in the top and finish without pinching the bar.
-I keep a big wire brush with me to clean off large amounts of dirt and rocks that might accumulate on the tree if I cut where land has been cleared by Dozers or other heavy machines. Saves chains and bars.
-Paint you tools you take to the field a bright color. I like to paint mine blaze orange because it doesn't blend with anything on the ground here and is easy to spot. I hate loosing things like wedges, files, bar tools, ect....
-I like to carry a large chain with me just incase I need to manipulate the tree in some way on the ground I can use my truck to do so.
-"CUT SAFE!" If something doesn't feel right in your gut don't do it.
nikocker
Addicted to ArboristSite
One tip my Dad taught me. . .
When you get tired . . . QUIT! Most accidents happen when people are fatigued - and besides, firewood will always be there tomorrow.
Al
When you get tired . . . QUIT! Most accidents happen when people are fatigued - and besides, firewood will always be there tomorrow.
Al
Wife'nHubby
Addicted to ArboristSite
I found the website for that item and did a Babel Fish translation from the German but for some reason can't get the url to post correctly here. Don't know how safe it is to use.
Shari
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Chocks,
I try to cut a few out of the Hinge of the first tree cut to stop the log from rolling either way while bucking, especially if you are on any kind of incline.
Also I keep an old paint brush with me when I cut to clean off all the saw dust from the filter and the flippy caps.
I use an old syrup squeeze bottle to pour the bar oil in to the saw as it cuts down on over flow.
A
I try to cut a few out of the Hinge of the first tree cut to stop the log from rolling either way while bucking, especially if you are on any kind of incline.
Also I keep an old paint brush with me when I cut to clean off all the saw dust from the filter and the flippy caps.
I use an old syrup squeeze bottle to pour the bar oil in to the saw as it cuts down on over flow.
A
stevohut
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measuring sticks
Bailey's sells a version it's called "Quickstix" You can find it on the website in with the measuring accesories. I copied the idea and made my own for about $5
Bailey's sells a version it's called "Quickstix" You can find it on the website in with the measuring accesories. I copied the idea and made my own for about $5
stevohut
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Being safe in the bush
The best tip I can give and it took some time for me to realize this. Respect the tree because it has a mind of its own. I've been caught off guard a couple times just being a rookie and all. I don't take safety for granted anymore, I treat every tree like it's out to kill me before it hits the ground. I attempted to cut a tree way to big for my skill. It was 28" OD, dead and had many takeoff branches. I messed up my cuts and the tree caught me off gaurd and fell the wrong way. When the tree started to fall it pinched my saw. I said screw it and I ran as the tree fell on top off my saw. I had to go home and get my car jack to lift the tree off my saw. Busted it up real good, but I fixed it and learned a valuable lesson. If you go into my profile pics you can see the tree laying on my saw.
Steve
The best tip I can give and it took some time for me to realize this. Respect the tree because it has a mind of its own. I've been caught off guard a couple times just being a rookie and all. I don't take safety for granted anymore, I treat every tree like it's out to kill me before it hits the ground. I attempted to cut a tree way to big for my skill. It was 28" OD, dead and had many takeoff branches. I messed up my cuts and the tree caught me off gaurd and fell the wrong way. When the tree started to fall it pinched my saw. I said screw it and I ran as the tree fell on top off my saw. I had to go home and get my car jack to lift the tree off my saw. Busted it up real good, but I fixed it and learned a valuable lesson. If you go into my profile pics you can see the tree laying on my saw.
Steve
Don't buy the Bailey's! It is so fragile that I broke two of the rods just by setting the saw down.
How did you build yours? I'd like to thread some iron rod to fit the Bailey's extended bar nuts. Haven't checked to see what size rod I need or what the thread size is.
I have used homemade ones for years made from 3/4" x 1/8" bar stock bent on one end and drilled to fit the bar nuts on a Poulan, a Johnyred and (currently) a Husky but those all had a flush surface to bolt to. the Stihls all are indented and I can't fit the homemade one in there. That is a very workable one except that it gets in the way when limbing and is too much trouble to install/remove
Harry K
rtrsam
ArboristSite Operative
The best tip I can give and it took some time for me to realize this. Respect the tree because it has a mind of its own. I've been caught off guard a couple times just being a rookie and all. I don't take safety for granted anymore, I treat every tree like it's out to kill me before it hits the ground. I attempted to cut a tree way to big for my skill. It was 28" OD, dead and had many takeoff branches. I messed up my cuts and the tree caught me off gaurd and fell the wrong way. When the tree started to fall it pinched my saw. I said screw it and I ran as the tree fell on top off my saw. I had to go home and get my car jack to lift the tree off my saw. Busted it up real good, but I fixed it and learned a valuable lesson. If you go into my profile pics you can see the tree laying on my saw.
Steve
I was falling a big tanoak one time on a crazy steep sideslope; even with caulk boots it was tough to keep footing. As it turns out I was using a brand new (!just out of the box that morning!) Stihl 066. I was working the back cut, the tree started to go, I pulled on the saw...stuck. My feet started sliding downhill...I yanked the saw one more time, still stuck.
Adios. I left the saw and wento to safety. As the tree rotated off the stump, the saw ell out of the back cut and went downhill, followed a second later by the butt of the tree.
Saw was not harmed in the least, nor was I. If the saw had been destroyed, it would have been more cost effective to my employer than a sprained ankle with Doctor visit and worker's comp claim. It turned out okay all around though.
stevohut
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how i built mine
what I did was welded a coupler nut to my bar nut, it's an 8mm thread. Then I fabbed a 1/8" steel plate bracket about 4" long with a hole drilled in each end. One end bolts the plate to the coupler nut welded on the bar nut which allows for swiveling the plate in different positions. Then I took a 3/8" lag screw stuck it through the bottom hole in the plate, welded it to the plate. Got some 1/2" wood dowl drilled it at the end so i could thread it on to the welded lag screw. This way you can make different lengths and swap them out easy. And the plate swivels to get the stick down closer to the wood. It's easy to remove when not needed.
Steve
what I did was welded a coupler nut to my bar nut, it's an 8mm thread. Then I fabbed a 1/8" steel plate bracket about 4" long with a hole drilled in each end. One end bolts the plate to the coupler nut welded on the bar nut which allows for swiveling the plate in different positions. Then I took a 3/8" lag screw stuck it through the bottom hole in the plate, welded it to the plate. Got some 1/2" wood dowl drilled it at the end so i could thread it on to the welded lag screw. This way you can make different lengths and swap them out easy. And the plate swivels to get the stick down closer to the wood. It's easy to remove when not needed.
Steve
BarkBuster20
Addicted to ArboristSite
This tip may not work out for everyone, depending on the cutting situation, but here is what i do. In the winter and spring months i fall and limb all the trees i am going to cut into firewood, that way they are waiting to be bucked up, and seasoning in case it takes till mid summer to get around to it (It never lays that long). After that i will go a long and mark off 16 inch rounds, and cut the trees up on another day, I then wait the roads have dried up (june) to come in and haul the wood out.
Also if your not hauling your wood out the day you cut it, its a good idea to pile it up because in the spring time under brush will cover it up.
Also if your not hauling your wood out the day you cut it, its a good idea to pile it up because in the spring time under brush will cover it up.
Beefie
Addicted to ArboristSite
giXXer
ArboristSite Operative
I read the previous pages and cannot believe I didn't see it...BUG SPRAY! Don't need it every time, but I have cut a day short due to my blood supply running low from the swarms of stupid mosquitos and deer flies.
Under the rear seat in my truck I have a small compartment that you will always find a few items that have saved my butt over and over. Lg. leatherman, flashlight, assortment of zip-ties, small roll of small gauge wire, logger's first aid kit, extra saw scrench, 1 bottle stihl 2-stroke oil, roll of duct tape and electrical tape, nylon cam-buckle strap, couple of pairs of the pink ear plugs (when I go to the range I never forget the guns, but the ear plugs...) new pair of work gloves, of course the bug spray, and also important, several new clean white cotton shop towels. Sounds like a lot of junk, but everything packs up pretty neatly in a small space. There are a few other non-related items, like an extra plow remote, etc., certainly not everyday use items, but when you are in a bind they can be quite helpful.
I also pack a lot of the items that have been mentioned previously, which a majority of have come from suggestions on this site. I typically bring the same gear with me everytime I cut so I try to clean and pack everything after cutting so it's ready to go for the next time. This isn't always practical so I will at least check over everything the night before I plan to go into the woods to make sure everything is ready to go. Since time is always short on the day of cutting I've found that being prepared saves a few minutes here and a few minutes there which adds up to a much more productive day in the woods. I'm also much more calm, not running around like a chicken with it's head cut off, making 20 trips back and forth to the truck, worrying if I'm forgetting something. :monkey:
Under the rear seat in my truck I have a small compartment that you will always find a few items that have saved my butt over and over. Lg. leatherman, flashlight, assortment of zip-ties, small roll of small gauge wire, logger's first aid kit, extra saw scrench, 1 bottle stihl 2-stroke oil, roll of duct tape and electrical tape, nylon cam-buckle strap, couple of pairs of the pink ear plugs (when I go to the range I never forget the guns, but the ear plugs...) new pair of work gloves, of course the bug spray, and also important, several new clean white cotton shop towels. Sounds like a lot of junk, but everything packs up pretty neatly in a small space. There are a few other non-related items, like an extra plow remote, etc., certainly not everyday use items, but when you are in a bind they can be quite helpful.
I also pack a lot of the items that have been mentioned previously, which a majority of have come from suggestions on this site. I typically bring the same gear with me everytime I cut so I try to clean and pack everything after cutting so it's ready to go for the next time. This isn't always practical so I will at least check over everything the night before I plan to go into the woods to make sure everything is ready to go. Since time is always short on the day of cutting I've found that being prepared saves a few minutes here and a few minutes there which adds up to a much more productive day in the woods. I'm also much more calm, not running around like a chicken with it's head cut off, making 20 trips back and forth to the truck, worrying if I'm forgetting something. :monkey:
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
Thought I'd drag this handy thread out of cold storage.
Today's handy tip: If you have dogs, the 40-50# dog food bags are plenty stout to hold all those pieces of splitter trash to use for kindling. When they're empty, use em for a container for all the bark and dirt that winds up by the stove.
(If ya have one of them little yipper dogs and buy 5# bags of gourmet food, PM me and I'll send ya a bag or two :hmm3grin2orange
Today's handy tip: If you have dogs, the 40-50# dog food bags are plenty stout to hold all those pieces of splitter trash to use for kindling. When they're empty, use em for a container for all the bark and dirt that winds up by the stove.
(If ya have one of them little yipper dogs and buy 5# bags of gourmet food, PM me and I'll send ya a bag or two :hmm3grin2orange
View attachment 213779
Given a proper application of this stuff any leather boot will become as watertight as a frogs ass.
Given a proper application of this stuff any leather boot will become as watertight as a frogs ass.
Woodomaker
ArboristSite Operative
I welded a toothed angle iron to the top edge of my tractor bucket and pick logs up end ways.
ON LEVEL ground.
Keep at waist high to cut.....use front bucket to scoop and raise same to height of splitter. Toss final product into trailer= no bending over.
ON LEVEL ground.
Keep at waist high to cut.....use front bucket to scoop and raise same to height of splitter. Toss final product into trailer= no bending over.
