First Day Milling

[computeruser]

Great pics! Looks like you got some good lumber out of those logs. I'm feelin' some peer pressure here...may have to get a mill set up one of these days...

 

[woodshop]

Great pics! Looks like you got some good lumber out of those logs. I'm feelin' some peer pressure here...may have to get a mill set up one of these days...

The bottom line is that if you already have a medium to large cc saw, all that separates you from milling wood is a less than $200 csm. That and a couple of 2x6's and you're in business. Of course, it does grow from there if you let it, but it's just not that expensive to get your feet wet and open up your first log. When you do that for the first time, if you're not excited or grinning from ear to ear there is something very wrong with you

 

[oldsaw]

Darn right a minivan can pass for a truck. Heck all you need is enough floor space to slide 6-8 foot long rough lumber, and something that will carry at least 1200 lbs of cargo, which most all minivans will. My Astro (with the rear seats pulled out) safetly holds 300 ft of wet, just milled lumber, plus the csm, the Ripsaw, couple other saws, toolboxes, custom horses etc. Sure it would be nice to have a truck, maybe a 1 ton flatbed, but just isn't in the picture at the moment. Main problem using a family minivan as a truck full of dirty saws and wood is cleaning it out before the wife complains about it.:biggrinbounce2:

Yeah, but my Windstar rides on the shock bumpers if you approach 400ft...stacked towards one side...don't ask me how I know that. Barely fit the saw and mill in. Felt like I was driving the Titanic home.

She complains about the gas smell for days, I vacuum out the dust. Women. Then she yelled at me for taking my Passat Wagon last time, my nice "new" car being used as a "truck"...Wagons are for hauling things. If it weren't meant for hauling, things wouldn't fit in it...right?

Woody, you is good people.

Mark

 

[dustytools]

I can feel your pain guys. I finally bought a used 5 foot by ten foot used trailer for $200 and a two inch ball for around $12 and turned my explorer into a truck. No more nagging or clean up.

 

[oldsaw]

I can feel your pain guys. I finally bought a used 5 foot by ten foot used trailer for $200 and a two inch ball for around $12 and turned my explorer into a truck. No more nagging or clean up.

I want one too. A buddy's uncle has the perfect one. 5x8, light, carries a ton easily without bottoming out. May have to start working on that one.

Mark

 

[smithie55]

Smithie have you thought about screwing that v-rail to a separate board. That way you don't have to screw it and unscrew it over and over agian. I don't know maybe your into screwing? I'd rather just move the board from cant to cant.

I mounted the rails on a 12' 2X6, ya man way easier.
I thought I would give it a try by screwing down to the face of the log, to much work.

I'm telling you, its that fine ripped sawdust that's doing it

Ya man, I mean Tommy Chong would be proud dude LOL:jawdrop:
Except maaan I think its the combination of exotic fragrances, wood smells, exhaust, sweat, the good ole out of doors.
Ya intoxicating, let the saw dust fly!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeeha

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I want one too. A buddy's uncle has the perfect one. 5x8, light, carries a ton easily without bottoming out. May have to start working on that one.

Mark

I have a pickup, but I still would rather haul my stuff in a trailer like this. I used to borrow one regularly from a neighbor where I used to live. I could put 4x more weight on it than in the bed of my truck and pull it like it wasn't even there. Only down side is backing up at night. They jack knife suddenly (DAMHIKT):bang:

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I'm telling you, its that fine ripped sawdust that's doing it. Highly addictive,

I call it Sawyer's Angel Dust.:angel: Why fight it? Nobody likes a quitter.

 

[Bearclaw]

The chain picked up some residue, but was still cutting well after 12 cuts. I will sharpen it, but should I clean it too? How?

I use oven cleaner... works great. Then just rinse the chain off, blow with compressed air to dry, and store in oil.

 

[Ekka]

Yep, this milling thing is taking off, and when I see the amount of gum wood we waste here it's soon gonna be time for me as well.

I own a 66 so I'll have to buy a big bar and skip chain and start milling some gums.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

The chain picked up some residue, but was still cutting well after 12 cuts. I will sharpen it, but should I clean it too? How?

I use oven cleaner... works great. Then just rinse the chain off, blow with compressed air to dry, and store in oil.

Unless I drop it in the dirt or something, I rarely clean mine other than brush or blow them off. I don't want to remove the oil that's worked it's way into the links and rivets. Besides, they go right back to dirty as soon a you put 'em in wood.

 

[coveredinsap]

Nice photos, thanks. If you are in the pictures....who's doing the camera work?


The only suggestion I would make is to initially mill the boards as thick as possible....2" is preferrable as a minimum to help prevent warping, etc. You can always mill them down further after they dry.
And if you absolutely must have 1"x material immediately ...I wouldn't go any thinner than 5/4 initially. You can always plane out minor twists & warps later if you give yourself enough material to work with. 4/4 is just too close if you are going for a 3/4" finished product (and don't want to throw away 50% of your production due to 'quality' issues).

 

[Husky137]

I can get quality 3/4 material out of 4/4 rough with no problem. Crazy stuff happens when you pay attention to stacking,stickering and proper drying techniques.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I can get quality 3/4 material out of 4/4 rough with no problem. Crazy stuff happens when you pay attention to stacking,stickering and proper drying techniques.

You mean if you do something right, it works!? That's insane!

 

[Woodsurfer]

I'll have to see how it goes with the 4/4 stock. I often joint and plane my well-aged 4/4 cherry and find it cleans up flat and nice at 7/8", even on 3' or 4' pieces. This birch has a reputation for lots of movement when dried, so that ain't gonna happen I expect.

Anyway, I'm impatient and the 4/4 stuff will be ready in about a year, 8/4 in about two, I suppose. Maybe I'll rip some of the 8/4 into 2" strips to accelerate things. I can see some nice bevelled-edge end tables and matching coffee table waiting in there!

Now that I think about it, I did do a piece at 5/4. That will give me some thick stock. Sure is nice to have this control over the cut! I've joined the mill-nuts!

 

[woodshop]

Unless I drop it in the dirt or something, I rarely clean mine other than brush or blow them off. I don't want to remove the oil that's worked it's way into the links and rivets. Besides, they go right back to dirty as soon a you put 'em in wood.

I'm same as aggie on this one, I sharpen them, but found taking the time to clean residue off the top plate is usually not necessary. Sure it looks nicer, but the time taken is not worth it. I find when I sharpen the chain, that residue right behind the file comes off anyway as I sharpen it. I've had no problems with chain not working as well due to it having that residue on it, as long as it's sharp.

 

[woodshop]

I'll have to see how it goes with the 4/4 stock. I often joint and plane my well-aged 4/4 cherry and find it cleans up flat and nice at 7/8", even on 3' or 4' pieces. This birch has a reputation for lots of movement when dried, so that ain't gonna happen I expect.

Anyway, I'm impatient and the 4/4 stuff will be ready in about a year, 8/4 in about two, I suppose. Maybe I'll rip some of the 8/4 into 2" strips to accelerate things. I can see some nice bevelled-edge end tables and matching coffee table waiting in there!

Now that I think about it, I did do a piece at 5/4. That will give me some thick stock. Sure is nice to have this control over the cut! I've joined the mill-nuts!

I find there is no set thickness to mill, it depends on the type of wood, whether it is quartersawn or riftsawn or not, how wide the boards are, lots of things. In general, unless its quartersawn oak, which I can get away with cutting at 4/4 and getting 3/4 lumber out of it, the majority of stuff I want to end up at 3/4 I initially mill at 1 1/8 inch. I used to always cut 5/4, but often ended up with 7/8 after the planer. Thus the 1 1/8 inch. As for how long it takes to dry the wood... that depends on even more factors than how thick to cut it. The weather mostly, what time of the year are you drying the stuff. I've had 5/4 cherry that took over a year to dry, and I've had same thickness dry to 14% (about as dry as it will get outdoors) in only 4months. Thats why if you do a lot of milling, and you really want to know how your stacks are drying, you need to invest in a moisture meter. I do keep track of when a stack was cut. I mark every board I mill with a lumber crayon, 6 characters, as it is stacked. First two chars are the species OA for oak, CH for cherry etc... last four characters are month and year. Ex. if I pull a board from my stash that says OA1205, I know it was oak milled December 2005. But only way I really know something is actually ready for my woodshop is slap the moisture meter on it and see.

 

[t_andersen]

Howdie great to have another enthusiaste on board.
Good pictures!!
The residue will burn off or get brittle and chunk off.
I think part of the enjoyment is the effort, as well as the end result.

Ya got that straight huations11, There's nothing like a stacks of boards that you hewned with your chainsaw & sweat.

I wonder why the guide rails are screwed directly onto the log? What about the screw holes?

Also, Woodsurfer, you may want to consider quartersawing. Slabbing as done by you is easy, but quartersawn material is more form stable-

 

[Adkpk]

yellow birch crotch

Here's how my crotch is looking . Looks good if you ask me.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

There's some good looking grain in that slab. A couple of butterfly keys across that joint, a couple of years air drying, and you got yourself a table top.