Be careful, it doesn't sound like the mill can cope with this because the miil just sits on the guide board and is not held down in any way. I think you will find the saw/mill will want to jump up off the guide board.
First time using the Mini-Mill
- Thread starter SteveG
- Start date
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Be careful, it doesn't sound like the mill can cope with this because the miil just sits on the guide board and is not held down in any way. I think you will find the saw/mill will want to jump up off the guide board.
ticat928
ArboristSite Operative
That is good responsible advice, I do not recommend anyone follow my lead, this is an experiment on my part.
I have several dozen of aluminum extrusions to choose from at work that will provide positive engagement up/down and side to side.
I will also start off with a smaller saw like the Echo CS600
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried every mounting position possible (the instructions are not terribly clear, besides, who reads instructions ? 
) and it worked best as shown in the picture, with the chain brake facing the pexiglass shield.
The saw is cutting on the bottom of the bar like it is supposed to, and the cut pulls the saw against the guide board. Sawdust is ejected on the side opposite of the operator (as long as there is no wind to blow the dust back in your face
).
It is tempting to mount it so that the saw cuts with the top of the bar, ejecting sawdust toward the ground instead of up in the air. However, cutting forces push the saw away from the guide board and you have to push back extra hard to maintain control. It can be done, but it's tiring and the cut is not as straight.
) and it worked best as shown in the picture, with the chain brake facing the pexiglass shield. The saw is cutting on the bottom of the bar like it is supposed to, and the cut pulls the saw against the guide board. Sawdust is ejected on the side opposite of the operator (as long as there is no wind to blow the dust back in your face
). It is tempting to mount it so that the saw cuts with the top of the bar, ejecting sawdust toward the ground instead of up in the air. However, cutting forces push the saw away from the guide board and you have to push back extra hard to maintain control. It can be done, but it's tiring and the cut is not as straight.
ticat928
ArboristSite Operative
I tried every mounting position possible (the instructions are not terribly clear, besides, who reads instructions ?
The saw is cutting on the bottom of the bar like it is supposed to, and the cut pulls the saw against the guide board. Sawdust is ejected on the side opposite of the operator (as long as there is no wind to blow the dust back in your face
It is tempting to mount it so that the saw cuts with the top of the bar, ejecting sawdust toward the ground instead of up in the air. However, cutting forces push the saw away from the guide board and you have to push back extra hard to maintain control. It can be done, but it's tiring and the cut is not as straight.
Experience such as your trial set ups is always more valuable than my thought / theory exercise, in the end I may not be able to improve on your final set up (I did not intend to doubt your efforts, however I was born and raised in a society (Germany) that claims no matter what someone has done before you it can always be improved upon).
One of the idea's I have is to use a very aggressive rake in the saw mounting (much more than is shown in the instructions) in order to keep the bar nose off the ground as well as increase directional control, side benefit is that the chain rotation push out force is more in line with the pushing force on the handle (should reduce effort).
The echo 24" bar has a small profile thus allowing a rotation of bar close to 45-degrees (may want to drill a hole in bar to avoid slippage of clamp and add spacers for additional chain clearance)
Kicker_92
ArboristSite Operative
I've tried the same as mtngun, and had similar results. The saw wants to jump up, making it hard to keep a level cut. In thin edging pases it might be more workable, but in 10" cut no way.
Keep in mind that as you tilt the bard more, you chains will be more "noodling" than ripping. This make a much rougher cut, although it is a bit faster.
ticat928
ArboristSite Operative
Some more good advice based on actual experience, I may just have to stop posting and start doing.
Good point on the noodling aspect, the 10-degrees off of vertical as shown in instructions may be best to start with.
I was going to try out a different type of rail extrusion (I do not like the safety aspects of v-rail).
What I want to use is a "T" extrusion mounted to mill to ride inside a "T-receptor" extrusion screwed to 2x8 board which would the be clamped to work piece.
If this does not work I will humbly post my failure at innovation
SteveG
ArboristSite Lurker
I have quite a lot of 'slabs' now after milling several oaks, ash and cedar and am wondering before I cut them for firewood is there another market for them? Some of the oak logs have 3-4 inches on the thicker side and guess they could be cut into smaller strips and used for molding. What do you guys do with the left-overs? I was thinking about listing them on Craigslist to see if anyone has a need. Ideas?
I'm learning more and more about using the mill (thanks in part to all your responses and reading other threads).
√ Wind helps a whole lot
√ Adjusting the mill to the size of the log
√ Listen to the saw
√ Keep the log out of the dirt
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help.
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Some people make slab benches.
I have quite a collection of slabs myself and I was thinking to edge them and use them for barn siding, rounded side out.
But mostly slabs make good firewood.
Small lumber mills routinely sells slabs for firewood, but they fetch a low price.
