First Try at Chain Sharpening

[Saw Bones]

Simple.... buy this:

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200&catID=272

Use it before your chains get real Dull. WDO

+1

Keep at it. Won't take you long to get it figured out. I use a similar rig made by oregon. They trick is to use a good file. Don't be too cheap. After you have been using a file for a little while you notice it takes more work to sharpen your cutters. With a new one 3 or 4 strokes is all it takes.

Practice Practice Practice.

 

[Saw Bones]

I was gonna use it to make sure I get the teeth the same length, since I figured that was important, but if it's not, I wont worry about it. My wife bought me one of these grinders, but I figured it was better for a newbie to learn to file first. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...ductId=100619425&N=10000003+90401+527134+1529

Use a file. You can ruin a chain quick with that.

 

[mr2autoxr]

I am new to this as well but have a question. I use the Granberg file-n-joint and it is great.

But with the rakers, I have the depth gauge tool for .025 and the rakers are still below the gauge. How much use on the chain does it take for you to need to file the rakers? I have about 4-5 tanks of fuel on the chain.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[scotclayshooter]

I am new to this as well but have a question. I use the Granberg file-n-joint and it is great.

But with the rakers, I have the depth gauge tool for .025 and the rakers are still below the gauge. How much use on the chain does it take for you to need to file the rakers? I have about 4-5 tanks of fuel on the chain.

Thanks,
Mike

Its not the tanks of fuel you worry about its the amount of sharpening i hit mine every 3 sharpens if i didnt hit anything hard, If you do that it may need done every time.
Ive had a couple of 3/8" Husky chains that the rakers didnt need touched for several sharpenings and one that the rakers came down on the first sharpen it seems to vary a bit so i wouldnt worry.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

I use the Husky roller guide also. Works quite well for me. Never had a problem with the angles whatsoever. Here is an illustrated drawing. Hope this helps. A friend of mine filed his illustrated as "incorrect angle" and wondered why it wasn't cutting right. He got upset with the kit and tossed it. Said that thing doesn't work right. I told him it was the operator.

In the picture below you can see where the file is positioned from the marks on my rollers.

The best guide to learn how to freehand i think but since it's so small and easy to use i tend use more than not even out in the woods cause it gives a near to perfect result in a small and cheap package

 

[JohnL]

I didn't do so well. I used about 10 strokes each tooth, but noticed that I was using more pressure on some srokes than others. It seems as though I got some of the teeth shorter than others, and some of my angles look a bit off. I was using the Husky roller guide kit with the appropriate file. It definatly cuts better than a dull chain, but not near as good as a new one, and it seemed to get dull quicker.

Should I try to file again. or take it to my dealer and let them sharpen it, then, when it gets dull, try it again?? I also seemed to have a bit of difficulty using the deapth guage tool.

You don't say if you are using a file guide. I recomend the Granberg file n' joint for hand filing. It lets you lock in the angles, takes a little practice to learn to use it. Tips for using it: Remember to position the chain by backing it up to the stop. Tighten chain tension more than you would use during cutting to limit tooth rock. Tighten tooth hold thumscrew with clamp above the rivets. Do one side, then flip the guide to do the other side. Mark the first tooth on each side so you know when you have hit every tooth. Use same number of strokes on each tooth. It's good to oil or grease the slide to limit wear on the guide. I've been happy with mine.

 

[ammoo74]

Oregon File Guide

I use a simple Oregon file guide. You can buy a complete kit. Comes with Swiss made file, guide plate and handle. The guide plate shows 25, 30 and 35 degree angles. The back of the kit shows which size file to use with which chains. Very simple to use. Stop and touch up each time you may hit a rock, frozen ground or wire in a log. People have even hit bullits in logs, but that is rare.

 

[bml]

Thanks for all the help folks. This is a great forum!!! I keep hearing about long curly chips, but even with brand new chains, all I get is the 1\4" size chips, is this correct?? My chain is the Husky 46, and I'm cutting hardwoods.

 

[ammoo74]

Cross cut vs. ripping

In my experience when you rip or cut the long way of the log is when you get long curly sawdust. Cross cutting gives you short saw dust.

 

[bml]

In my experience when you rip or cut the long way of the log is when you get long curly sawdust. Cross cutting gives you short saw dust.

Gotcha, thanks. My work on the cutters seems to be improving, but I'm still having trouble with the Husky tool for the drag links. It seems a bit difficult to get the correct positioning of the tool on the links to get a consistent protrusion of the drags. Maybe I'm just making this harder than it needs to be, or I've just lost a few brain cells.

 

[scotclayshooter]

Gotcha, thanks. My work on the cutters seems to be improving, but I'm still having trouble with the Husky tool for the drag links. It seems a bit difficult to get the correct positioning of the tool on the links to get a consistent protrusion of the drags. Maybe I'm just making this harder than it needs to be, or I've just lost a few brain cells.

The raker gauge works really well once you get the hang of it.
But it does not fit all chains very well!

 

[bml]

The raker gauge works really well once you get the hang of it.
But it does not fit all chains very well!

I'm using Husky46 chain, one of those listed on the package. I think its just me.

 

[Brian VT]

I bought one and really like the design and how small it is but my Oregon 72DP is 35 deg. and this guide is 30 deg., I think.
Is it okay to change the angle of chain cutters by 5 deg. ? If not, would this guide still work okay if you follow the cutter angle and not stay 90 deg. to the rollers ?

 

[bml]

I bought one and really like the design and how small it is but my Oregon 72DP is 35 deg. and this guide is 30 deg., I think. Is it okay to change the angle of chain teeth by 5 deg. ?

I think the Husky guide is 25 degree.

 

[Brian VT]

I think the Husky guide is 25 degree.

Even worse. lol. I guess I'm out of luck unless I switch chains. I do like the guide I use that files the rakers at the same time but I was hoping to give the roller a try.

 

[bml]

WOW!!!!! I'm getting better. Took my saw out to test my latest attempts at sharpening, and it was MUCH better than the first try. I just kept on filing away at the chain till I felt like things were going much better, then I double checked to make sure the cutters were as consistent as reasonably possible (no, I didn't't't use my calipers LOL). I figured that if I screwed up a chain during the learning curve, it would be worth it. I think I needed to hit the drags a bit after all the hacking I had done on my cutters, so I took the flat file, and the Husky guide, and did the best I could.

Overall, the chain cut very well. It really pulled itself into the oak, and cut strait with no problem. AAMOF, it defiantly cut better than it did brand new. I did notice a small bit of chattering on a couple of cuts, not sure if that is from something I did when sharpening or not. Currently, my biggest problem is that dang tool for checking and filing the drags. I seem to keep having trouble getting it to sit consistently on the chain.

Many thanks for the help folks, hopefully I will keep improving. Sorry for the long post. :greenchainsaw:

 

[tomtrees58]

don't drag your file backwards tom trees

 

[scotclayshooter]

Yep the raker guide does not want to sit on there very well, But i always have the powerhead to the left side and file ALL my rakers from one side only.
Im right handed so i hold the guide with my left and file with the right.
My hands hurt doing the rakers but are fine with sharpening.
The rakers are hard work IMO.

Stick at it!

 

[woodchopper]

You don't say if you are using a file guide. I recomend the Granberg file n' joint for hand filing. It lets you lock in the angles, takes a little practice to learn to use it. Tips for using it: Remember to position the chain by backing it up to the stop. Tighten chain tension more than you would use during cutting to limit tooth rock. Tighten tooth hold thumscrew with clamp above the rivets. Do one side, then flip the guide to do the other side. Mark the first tooth on each side so you know when you have hit every tooth. Use same number of strokes on each tooth. It's good to oil or grease the slide to limit wear on the guide. I've been happy with mine.

Great advice !! Well worth rereading.

Yep the raker guide does not want to sit on there very well, But i always have the powerhead to the left side and file ALL my rakers from one side only.

More great advice. Took me awhile to figure this out.

 

[Vibes]

I bought a similar set-up as the Granberg and really don't use it that much. I find it much easier and quicker to just use my Oregon file guides. They take some getting used to and you need to know the cutter angles but a few swipes and there ready. The Granberg does a really nise job and I'll use it after I rock a chain or if I'm selling a saw, buts thats about it anymore. I file all my chains every 3 tanks of gas.

Someone recomended Stihl files and I bought some 3/8s and I highly recomend them. Much better quality than other brands. I see in the Stihl brochure a sharpening kit in a pouch that looks like it covers all sizes. Does anyone know what it costs. Its on my wish list.