First use of 60" BIL mill

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Nice pics/wood/mill Bob-keep them coming! I noticed that split too but I'm a newb compared to some of you guys and it's a good way for me to learn. Bob assuming you want to use the big slabs for table/bar tops, etc, what would you fill cracks with for strength that is sandable and affords strength?

Cheers Jake. Although the cracks run a long way none run right through the slabs and they are still relatively strong. For example, I dropped one off the fork from a height of about 4 ft and nothing happened. Because these logs are partially dry before milling they should move considerably less than if they were milled when first cut down so hopefully they won't crack too much more during the remainder of their drying. I'm still learning on all this stuff so I will hopefully report back in a year or two about how well they are holding together. The guy who wants to buy the biggest slab says he will fill the cracks with a mix of epoxy and sawdust.
 
I rarely use large slabs in my work but I do occasionally end up using a board with a crack. I guarantee all the joinery in my work for life, but if a client wants me to fill a crack with epoxy I will not guarantee the work. I prefer to use butterflies across the crack. On those boards Bob posted pics of I would put a butterfly about 6"-8" from each end and about a 1/3 of the way down from one end provided the slab dries similar to the way it looks now.

Between now and when that crack would get filled with epoxy it will get filled with dirt and dust and a fair amount of sawdust during the planing/sanding process. It is very difficult to get a good bond with epoxy with all that surface contamination even after blowing it out with an air hose. the biggest problems though is that once that slab is finished and placed in a home it will still continue to expand and contract with the changes in seasonal moisture. It will only have the same moisture content 2x each year. The rest of the time it will either be gaining or loosing moisture (Expanding or decreasing in size) the epoxy on the other hand will stay the same and eventually it will fail on one side of the crack. Epoxy resins are extremely susceptible to UV degradation causing yellowing and weakening unless painted over with an opaque paint. While UV should not be a big problem in the average home the epoxy will still yellow over time.

I have two benches currently in galleries both with cracks. The crack is always seen as a positive focal point and I have only had one request to ever fill a crack. The attached pic is of one of the benches. The wood is macrocarpa, or Monterey Cypress for those on this side of the world, the butterfly is claro walnut. The bench has a hand carved texture on the seat.
 
Pair of 42" slabs.
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Close up.
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After taking off 5 slabs the loader/forklift was finally able to lift one end of the log up (this wood is 72 lbs per cubic ft) so I could generate a slope.
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Mill wouldn't go down by itself - wood too hard and too wide a cut - but effort needed to get mill to bite was minimal.

I have a lot more pics but that's enough for now.

that is some nice looking lumber there... looks like all it needs is a clear finish on it...
 
Cheers Aggie, have you been able to get back to any milling lately?

Hey DaiSensei, how do you do up those bolts?

Unfortunately no. I still have to build a new barn after the one I was storing my slabs in was partially destroyed in the last hurricane. That should happen this coming month then some more milling might be possible.

I am working on a slab desk though.

:cheers:
 
Unfortunately no. I still have to build a new barn after the one I was storing my slabs in was partially destroyed in the last hurricane. That should happen this coming month then some more milling might be possible.

I am working on a slab desk though.

:cheers:

Cheers AWB, good luck with the barn, and the desk. BobL
 
Hey DaiSensei, how do you do up those bolts?

I just tightened them enough to fit snuggly so the nut is against the washer. The joint is not prestressed, it only provides tensile strength, the resin fills any gaps and ensures you have a compression surface.

They make great conversation pieces
 
I just tightened them enough to fit snuggly so the nut is against the washer. The joint is not prestressed, it only provides tensile strength, the resin fills any gaps and ensures you have a compression surface.

They make great conversation pieces

I think they would also... I'm going to look into doing that. It doesn't seem all that difficult to do. Do you coat or shellac that brass bolt before you pour in the resin or does the resin keep it from oxidizing over time? I'm going to try and use the CNC with a 1/8th bit to make a perfect "D" for the ends to set into as long as the piece will fit on my table.
 

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