First use of Mini Mill.......yes pictures

[woodshop]

It appears that the mini mill is a handy and useful tool, for straight out slabbing it eliminates theneed to turn a log.

A fine accompaniment to a ripsaw.

I could see one of these saving me some time in some situations, since I could slab the side of smaller dia logs instead of rotating them and setting up the csm. This would be quicker. Not sure with large logs though, say 36" dia if it would go any faster. Might not even be able to do what I want on a log that large with a mini mill, don't know. Anybody tried this on something that large? What are the practical limits of the mini-mill?

 

[Marmaduck]

I could see one of these saving me some time in some situations, since I could slab the side of smaller dia logs instead of rotating them and setting up the csm. This would be quicker. Not sure with large logs though, say 36" dia if it would go any faster. Might not even be able to do what I want on a log that large with a mini mill, don't know. Anybody tried this on something that large? What are the practical limits of the mini-mill?

FWIW, considering I haven't actually used my mini-mill, it seems the mini-mill would only be limited by the size of the saw/bar combo used. I planned to use my little 20" bar on my MS290, but could just as easily use my 28" or 36" bar (on a bigger saw, of course). My plan for this mill was to simply make large logs narrow enough to fit my Mk III mill. Now that I have the 395/36" combo, that won't be necessary very often. I still think it will be nice to pre-edge logs and quickly give me 2 more flat sides to make quarter-sawing go more smoothly.

 

[rayvil01]

Thanks for the replies. As mentioned, at $74, it's hard to argue with the value of it.

 

[stonykill]

I could see one of these saving me some time in some situations, since I could slab the side of smaller dia logs instead of rotating them and setting up the csm. This would be quicker. Not sure with large logs though, say 36" dia if it would go any faster. Might not even be able to do what I want on a log that large with a mini mill, don't know. Anybody tried this on something that large? What are the practical limits of the mini-mill?

woodshop, the minimill is how I was able to mill 30 inch logs with a 58cc saw. With the minimill I was able to slab 2 sides off, roll the log onto its side and slab the other 2 off. Now I'm down to 24 ish inches. Take the minimill and rip that in 1/2...2 - 12 inch cants. Then out comes the csm to make boards.

The minimill can reduce the size of the large stuff, into realisically usable cants. You know yourself you don't need 24 inch wide boards. :rockn:

 

[woodshop]

woodshop, the minimill is how I was able to mill 30 inch logs with a 58cc saw. With the minimill I was able to slab 2 sides off, roll the log onto its side and slab the other 2 off. Now I'm down to 24 ish inches. Take the minimill and rip that in 1/2...2 - 12 inch cants. Then out comes the csm to make boards.

The minimill can reduce the size of the large stuff, into realisically usable cants. You know yourself you don't need 24 inch wide boards. :rockn:

Got it... so again I'm just wondering if this thing can save me time in certain situations where it would go faster than setting up the csm.

No, rarely does a woodworker need 24 inch wide boards. In fact, I rarely use more than 8 inch wide boards for lots of reasons. Occasionally the need does arise. I have plans to make and sell a 24 inch wide 8/4 cutting board. In that case, was going to use two 12 inch wide boards glued up with biscuits, so there would be an example of a wide board. But table tops, most furniture, no... boards that wide give rise to stability and movement problems.

 

[BlueRider]

Iv'e seen several refrences recently about not using wide boards when building furniture. Being a furniture maker I certianly understand the sound design principles in using multiple narrow boards vs using a single wide one. However I tend to mill all my wood trough and through and keep the slabs as wide as possible. By keeping the slabs as wide as possible it allows me to select my 8" boards out of the best possible grain. I also have several designs that use boards up to 12" so having wide boards allows me to use the wood for those designs or for other stuff.

Another reason why I like to leave my slabs wide is because I like to stack them as they came off the log. this makes it easier to keep track of the order of the boards in case I want to book match them in a design later on.

I have no factual data but I suspect that it is also faster to mill through and through rather then milling a cant and then slabing that. Of course I suppose this all comes down to cc's and mill capacity. But since I make my living building furniture and not by milling wood I try to spend as little time as possible milling wood. Not that I don't enjoy milling, just got to try and be efficient with my time.

 

[stonykill]

Got it... so again I'm just wondering if this thing can save me time in certain situations where it would go faster than setting up the csm.

I'm not sure it is a timesaver in most cases. It's an inexpensive tool at your disposal , to get the job done. It in certain cases can save you from rolling a large log. May save your back in that case. Does it replace the csm? Nope, compliments it. If I had to put it into numbers, I use the mini 1 in 9 times that I use the csm.

 

[stonykill]

Iv'e seen several refrences recently about not using wide boards when building furniture. Being a furniture maker I certianly understand the sound design principles in using multiple narrow boards vs using a single wide one. However I tend to mill all my wood trough and through and keep the slabs as wide as possible. By keeping the slabs as wide as possible it allows me to select my 8" boards out of the best possible grain. I also have several designs that use boards up to 12" so having wide boards allows me to use the wood for those designs or for other stuff.

Another reason why I like to leave my slabs wide is because I like to stack them as they came off the log. this makes it easier to keep track of the order of the boards in case I want to book match them in a design later on.

I have no factual data but I suspect that it is also faster to mill through and through rather then milling a cant and then slabing that. Of course I suppose this all comes down to cc's and mill capacity. But since I make my living building furniture and not by milling wood I try to spend as little time as possible milling wood. Not that I don't enjoy milling, just got to try and be efficient with my time.

Fellow full time woodworker here.

I see the logic in doing it your way. My personal experience with milling wide slabs hasn't been the greatest. I find that I have to mill to 1 1/2 thick to flatten to 1 inch if I mill real wide due to twist, warp etc. If I mill into cants 1st, 1 1/4 rough gets me 1 inch finished. Less wasted wood in my eyes. Of Course it all depends on species. Of what I've milled oak is the worst to mill wide. Twist, pop, fart, warp. But then I mill little oak as I can't stand it. Birch,cherry, once in the heart drys flat for me. I also keep my boards in order.

If I had a large jointer and planer, I would mill wider as well. Most don't have the tools to work said wood.

From my experiences it is quicker to cant 1st. It takes little time to create a cant, then the saw can handle the reduced width better, creating much faster milling.

2 ways to do the same thing. For me, and my storage areas, and tools, 30 inch wide boards....just don't work. For others it may, and does.

 

[BlueRider]

Fellow full time woodworker here.

I see the logic in doing it your way. My personal experience with milling wide slabs hasn't been the greatest. I find that I have to mill to 1 1/2 thick to flatten to 1 inch if I mill real wide due to twist, warp etc. If I mill into cants 1st, 1 1/4 rough gets me 1 inch finished. Less wasted wood in my eyes. Of Course it all depends on species. Of what I've milled oak is the worst to mill wide. Twist, pop, fart, warp. But then I mill little oak as I can't stand it. Birch,cherry, once in the heart drys flat for me. I also keep my boards in order.

If I had a large jointer and planer, I would mill wider as well. Most don't have the tools to work said wood.

From my experiences it is quicker to cant 1st. It takes little time to create a cant, then the saw can handle the reduced width better, creating much faster milling.

2 ways to do the same thing. For me, and my storage areas, and tools, 30 inch wide boards....just don't work. For others it may, and does.

I hear you regarding the oak. One of the things I am trying to do with my furniture is to distinguish my self from all the other stuff out there, and one of the ways I can do this is by usinf different kinds of wood.

A few years ago I started milling everything at 2 1/4" which gets me a 2" dry rough board. since many furniture components are made in pairs a rough 2" board will net me a pair of components with matching grain. Most times this is never noticed, but it all adds up to a more harmonious overall design.

With a 58cc saw I can see where milling a cant first could save time. with my 89cc's I am guessing that I am on the cusp of it taking the same either way or possible being a bit faster to mill through and through. I have all the parts to convert one of my 051's to an 075 which will give me 111cc's and I am hoping that it will speed things up in 30" plus size range as I tend to mill a lot of stuff over 30".

Don't get me wrong I think having a mini mill is probably the easiest way for milling a cant and will probably pick one up when I start collecting timbers for a new shop.

 

[stonykill]

I hear you regarding the oak. One of the things I am trying to do with my furniture is to distinguish my self from all the other stuff out there, and one of the ways I can do this is by usinf different kinds of wood.

A few years ago I started milling everything at 2 1/4" which gets me a 2" dry rough board. since many furniture components are made in pairs a rough 2" board will net me a pair of components with matching grain. Most times this is never noticed, but it all adds up to a more harmonious overall design.

With a 58cc saw I can see where milling a cant first could save time. with my 89cc's I am guessing that I am on the cusp of it taking the same either way or possible being a bit faster to mill through and through. I have all the parts to convert one of my 051's to an 075 which will give me 111cc's and I am hoping that it will speed things up in 30" plus size range as I tend to mill a lot of stuff over 30".

Don't get me wrong I think having a mini mill is probably the easiest way for milling a cant and will probably pick one up when I start collecting timbers for a new shop.

I mill with 82 cc's now, lp chain.

I agree with setting yourself apart from the furniture crowd. By milling our own lumber, we are able to do just that!