Fiskars Question.

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grandpatractor

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I find myself not worrying about over striking another piece of wood anymore. Many times I over strike on purpose cause I am too lazy to move the piece that is in the way and just swing away. I figure if it is guaranteed I ain't gonna worry about it.

I also get twanged once in a while in the hands with the X27 but not so much with the older shorter version.:msp_confused:
 
I think there is more vibration with the X27 than the SS. One of the reasons I prefer the SS.

I don't overstrike with the Fiskars -- if a round is big enough to be overstriking I'll generally go around the outside splitting off shakes. That said, the handle is just plain tough and I think it's got a pretty good warranty.
 
Pretty sure the handles have a warranty...if you break it i think they'll just send you a new one
 
There's no real reason to overstrike most of the time. Either move around or if standing in the same spot and need the next whack to clear closer stuff, just pick your hands up a little right before the axe head hits. This increases the handle angle and will clear the intervening pieces then. Swing, last second lift, head strike. Not saying I don't overstrike on occasion, but sorta rare.

I am only a medicore wrench, espeically on saws because I just started working on them last year, and just a so-so cutter, I don't do the volume like pro fallers or pro firewood sellers, but I am starting to get the impression I must be an exceptional hand splitter. I just don't hardly ever run into the problems I see posted here on splitting.

Going all the way back..I have never broken an axe or maul handle either. I am serious, I just cannot recall breaking one, ever. I have had the heads get loose and come off, that's it. Both wood and composite handles, the heads just eventually get loose. Mauls hammering them through a round, sure, the wood gets abraded and worn out, I don't consider that breaking them, just a piece that you know will get worn using it like that, the handle is a sacrificial piece on the tool. Then I swap them out once too worn for my tastes. Never busted one though or cracked it.

Now I have broken pick handles, but not axes, mauls or sledge hammers. And pick handles I have broken before from repeated use as a major lever, digging out stumps and rocks, etc. Combo of abraded away worn out, then it cracks trying to pry something out eventually.

*shrugs*
 
From what I've seen, 99% of the splitting videos you see on youtube are of guys standing on one side, say in a 90* sweep, and are doing nothing but overstriking.

There's zero reason for it, actually. Side-stepping around the round as you're swinging is easy, fast, and fatigues myself much slower than standing there swinging multiple times trying to split the round from one side.

As you side-step, you force yourself to take more accurate swings, vs standing still just swinging away as your handle is slamming against wood.

Now as far as the Fiskars handles being able to take the constant abuse of overstriking? Everything has its limit, but I'd be a betting man and say the composite handle of the Fiskars would take more abuse than a traditional wooden handle.
 
I dunno why you'd want to pick up a bad practice, especially when there's no advantage to it. Over-swinging, probably combined with some poor quality handles, as well as being tired, is the only reason I've ever broken a handle. Mostly that was years ago, and the main difference is hand-eye coordination and muscle memory, which comes simply from practice. If you teach yourself to do it wrong, then that's what you'll do. And then you may find that nothing is indestructible, and that getting a new axe sent from the other side of the world isn't always reliable.
 
From what I've seen, 99% of the splitting videos you see on youtube are of guys standing on one side, say in a 90* sweep, and are doing nothing but overstriking.

There's zero reason for it, actually. Side-stepping around the round as you're swinging is easy, fast, and fatigues myself much slower than standing there swinging multiple times trying to split the round from one side.

As you side-step, you force yourself to take more accurate swings, vs standing still just swinging away as your handle is slamming against wood.

Now as far as the Fiskars handles being able to take the constant abuse of overstriking? Everything has its limit, but I'd be a betting man and say the composite handle of the Fiskars would take more abuse than a traditional wooden handle.
Actually, I don't walk around the round much, for a couple of reasons. First, I often end up with quite a pile of splits on the sides and behind the splitting block, because I don't always stop to move and stack the splits as I go. I do that while I stop and take a breather. Second, I'm often splitting in the woods, either because I'm going to stack it there or because I'm halving or quartering it to move them out. Either way, it's pretty hilly here, but I get a clear spot with good footing and room to swing - but there's seldom more room than that.

Also, I still often split it right down the middle, but I start on the far edge and end up finishing it up on the close edge so I don't pull the handle through the wood. It depends on the type of wood and the particular log of course. Some stuff likes to crack right through the center. And I can always spin the round on the block if I need to - gives you a moment to look at it and see what it's doing.
 
Well, I have 2 of the shorter handle versions and then the X27. So I am not too worried if I need to warranty a handle. I'm not that far from Madison.
I was just curious if any one else found this as an advantage as it saves a bit of time from trying to get around and at the right angle for the split. I don't do it all the time, just occasionally when I don't want to spin the wood or trip over some other split pieces to get to it. It saves time and energy.
Usually don't swing any harder than needed to split the offending piece.

I wouldn't even think of doing this with any other maul. They wouldn't last long.
 
Ha! I guess I didn't word that very well. Just wondering if others over strike or worry about it with the fiskars. I have always tried to avoid it with other handles.

I am more careful with my wood handle splitters than I am with my Fiskars. I never make blatant overstrikes but I do give the Fiskars handles a serious beating without any issues so far.
 
I am more careful with my wood handle splitters than I am with my Fiskars. I never make blatant overstrikes but I do give the Fiskars handles a serious beating without any issues so far.

Yup. I agree. I have the older version Fiskars axe and maul. Tough as a pine knot IMO.
 
Just had my first "idiot" overstrike with the x27 yesterday afternoon. I'm not sure, but I think the vibration broke my thumb. Felt pretty rough, but forced myself to split another 20 smalls before throwing in the towel. Would not recommend an "idiot overstrike" with this "stronger than steel" handle. Can barely move my thumb today.
Even still - that tool is like a drug I can't get enough of. I can't see myself going back to a regular maul.
 
Just had my first "idiot" overstrike with the x27 yesterday afternoon. I'm not sure, but I think the vibration broke my thumb. Felt pretty rough, but forced myself to split another 20 smalls before throwing in the towel. Would not recommend an "idiot overstrike" with this "stronger than steel" handle. Can barely move my thumb today.
Even still - that tool is like a drug I can't get enough of. I can't see myself going back to a regular maul.

Sorry you broke your thumb. I repped ya.:msp_wink:
 
Has anyone tested the warranty due to an overstrike? How would that be a manufacturers defect? Not trying to be difficult here, just curious. Then again, my aim leaves a lot to be desired so I might have to make use of the warranty some day! I plan on using my X27 a lot this year and sure hope I improve.
 
Well, I have 2 of the shorter handle versions and then the X27. So I am not too worried if I need to warranty a handle. I'm not that far from Madison.
I was just curious if any one else found this as an advantage as it saves a bit of time from trying to get around and at the right angle for the split. I don't do it all the time, just occasionally when I don't want to spin the wood or trip over some other split pieces to get to it. It saves time and energy.
Usually don't swing any harder than needed to split the offending piece.

I wouldn't even think of doing this with any other maul. They wouldn't last long.

Don't worry JD... I over strike stuff all the time... There's only one maul I can't tear up... A 10 lb monster maul... Oh, it's ugly... And heavy... But that steel handle is AWESOME!!! Been wanting a Fiskars for a while, but figured it would be like casting pearls before swine... But what a fine looking tool!!!
:big_smile:
Stay warm and Have some rep!!!
 
Just had my first "idiot" overstrike with the x27 yesterday afternoon. I'm not sure, but I think the vibration broke my thumb. Felt pretty rough, but forced myself to split another 20 smalls before throwing in the towel. Would not recommend an "idiot overstrike" with this "stronger than steel" handle. Can barely move my thumb today.
Even still - that tool is like a drug I can't get enough of. I can't see myself going back to a regular maul.



Ouchy oochy! Sucks! Can't say as I have done a bad overstrike yet, just some minor ones. I felt 'tarded when I did do some though. I know better. Whenever I get sloppy with a saw or axe, that's it, go do something else, ain't worth the risk. Or I can say I try to stop just short of that time.
 
Ouchy oochy! Sucks! Can't say as I have done a bad overstrike yet, just some minor ones. I felt 'tarded when I did do some though. I know better. Whenever I get sloppy with a saw or axe, that's it, go do something else, ain't worth the risk. Or I can say I try to stop just short of that time.

Then there are those of us who just walk in the shadow of stupidity...
But hey... Whatcha gonna do???
 
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