Flue damper with EPA stove

[USMC0802]

I called the stove shop this morning because I was getting what seemed like ridiculously high temps on the flue probe thermometer this morning with the air control level closed down as much as possible. Temps were around 1450-1500* in the flue about 18" above the stove.

Wood is good firewood, not kiln dried, just seasoned firewood, mostly walnut and black locust this morning.

The house is up on a hill and the winds have been pretty steady recently as high as 25-35 mph for a couple days in a row.

When it's not windy, the flue temp usually settles around 600-800*, but lately, it's been 1000-1200* and the wood hasn't lasted as long.

The shop recommended putting a damper in the flue pipe saying it sounds like the draft is too strong and with the recent winds, it would pull too much air through the stove than it's supposed to be getting.. He said I'd get better heat and longer burn times.

Anyone else using a damper with an EPA stove?

 

[pook]

I called the stove shop this morning because I was getting what seemed like ridiculously high temps on the flue probe thermometer this morning with the air control level closed down as much as possible. Temps were around 1450-1500* in the flue about 18" above the stove.

Wood is good firewood, not kiln dried, just seasoned firewood, mostly walnut and black locust this morning.

The house is up on a hill and the winds have been pretty steady recently as high as 25-35 mph for a couple days in a row.

When it's not windy, the flue temp usually settles around 600-800*, but lately, it's been 1000-1200* and the wood hasn't lasted as long.

The shop recommended putting a damper in the flue pipe saying it sounds like the draft is too strong and with the recent winds, it would pull too much air through the stove than it's supposed to be getting.. He said I'd get better heat and longer burn times.

Anyone else using a damper with an EPA stove?

put a fldamper on it, duh.or listen to logbutcher who says u never have2= LOLOLOLO

 

[rwbinbc]

I have one on mine, It keeps coals for a long time if You have to leave. My secondary heat is electric, I dont like electric bills. So I run it 3/4 open all the time I'm here. But if We're going away for hours it has kept coals for around 18-24 hours. The other day My stove got realy hot, I had to damp it down.

 

[pook]

3 ways to control overfiring
1- flupipe damper---manual
2-barometric damper--auto=not manual & used with wood furnaces but not woodstoves?= LOLOLO:yoyo:

3- cooling the fluegas with a heat extractor/reclaimer-----------typically disdained by peeps who accept a barodamper on a wood furnace but not a wood stove+++++???

 

[USMC0802]

3 ways to control overfiring
1- flupipe damper---manual
2-barometric damper--auto=not manual & used with wood furnaces but not woodstoves?= LOLOLO:yoyo:

3- cooling the fluegas with a heat extractor/reclaimer-----------typically disdained by peeps who accept a barodamper on a wood furnace but not a wood stove+++++???

Last year when we bought our house, it was the first I've had a stove since 1994, and at that time I was a kid helping dad with firewood. This is the first EPA stove I've had and really the first full winter I've used a stove in a long time and the first time I've had to really think about anything at all with the stove other than, like I said, helping dad carry firewood.

So, I don't know anything about heat extractors or reclaimer or even the barometric flue dampers.

 

[pook]

manual key damper is least controversial, simply obstructs the draft
barometric damper is somewhat controversial but automatic---normal with oil furnaces & wood furnaces...chimney should be monitored
heat extractor is real controversial but highly rewarding if chimney can be easily monitored & cleaned

 

[Wood Scrounge]

forgive my ignorance, but if you have an air tight stove why do you need a damper? can't you just reduce the incoming air, that's all I have needed to do, but I may be missing something in your setup?

 

[pook]

forgive my ignorance, but if you have an air tight stove why do you need a damper? can't you just reduce the incoming air, that's all I have needed to do, but I may be missing something in your setup?

EPA stove is not airtight & excess draft can overfire the stove

 

[Muffler Bearing]

USMC0802 Which modle stove do you have and how tall is your chimney?

I have/had a simalar problem. My interior masonary chimney is 33' and has a SS liner. I was only able to burn small/med loads or risk an over-fire/hi-temps. Had limited control of fire on X-tremly cold, or windy days.
EPA has mandated that 1 or 2 - 3/8" holes be drilled into all EPA stoves, these are referred to as un-regulated air.
I located 1 of these 3/8" holes and covered it with Hi-Intensity heat tape. I than cut a very small hole into the tape and tested unit. Kept adjusting the hole till unit operated correctly, and gave ME control over the fire. Bottom line my 3/8" EPA hole is now a 3/16" hole. May not sound like a big deal, but it is actually a HUGE difference!

 

[pook]

USMC0802 Which modle stove do you have and how tall is your chimney?

I have/had a simalar problem. My interior masonary chimney is 33' and has a SS liner. I was only able to burn small/med loads or risk an over-fire/hi-temps. Had limited control of fire on X-tremly cold, or windy days.
EPA has mandated that 1 or 2 - 3/8" holes be drilled into all EPA stoves, these are referred to as un-regulated air.
I located 1 of these 3/8" holes and covered it with Hi-Intensity heat tape. I than cut a very small hole into the tape and tested unit. Kept adjusting the hole till unit operated correctly, and gave ME control over the fire. Bottom line my 3/8" EPA hole is now a 3/16" hole. May not sound like a big deal, but it is actually a HUGE difference!

crazy but tell more. Sounds like a 1cheeked barometric damper

 

[Muffler Bearing]

USMC0802 Which modle stove do you have and how tall is your chimney?

I have/had a simalar problem. My interior masonary chimney is 33' and has a SS liner. I was only able to burn small/med loads or risk an over-fire/hi-temps. Had limited control of fire on X-tremly cold, or windy days.
EPA has mandated that 1 or 2 - 3/8" holes be drilled into all EPA stoves, these are referred to as un-regulated air.
I located 1 of these 3/8" holes and covered it with Hi-Intensity heat tape. I than cut a very small hole into the tape and tested unit. Kept adjusting the hole till unit operated correctly, and gave ME control over the fire. Bottom line my 3/8" EPA hole is now a 3/16" hole. May not sound like a big deal, but it is actually a HUGE difference!

Heres the story. I'm Monkey Wrench over there.


http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/65544/

 

[SkyP]

EPA has mandated that 1 or 2 - 3/8" holes be drilled into all EPA stoves, these are referred to as un-regulated air.

My EPA Vogelzang Colonial insert only has one hole, about 1/4 ". They call it a PAO - Primary Air Orifice. I sometimes have thought it is too small, and have thought of enlarging it a little. Don't want to do it in a way that I can't reclose it if need be. It has an air intake on the secondary burn tubes that seems to be pretty touchy, a small change can make a big difference in the fire.

 

[laynes69]

I have 2 of those holes on our woodfurnace. One is in the base of the coalbed in the front middle, and one is in the center of the firebox back. Ours are only 1/4" and work just fine. I would say just put in a key damper and experiment till you find what works best.

 

[ray benson]

Turn out the lights in the woodstove room this evening. If the temp probe is accurate and it is reading 1400-1500° - the stove pipe will be glowing red.

 

[sunfish]

Turn out the lights in the woodstove room this evening. If the temp probe is accurate and it is reading 1400-1500° - the stove pipe will be glowing red.

Yep, will be bright red at that temp.

If I couldn't control the fire with the air intake, I would put a damper in the flue.

 

[USMC0802]

I don't think it's a matter of not being able to control it since the stove isn't going above the limits listed in the manual, but I think it would burn even longer than it does already and more heat would be going into the room/house rather than up the chimney. If it is 1200-1500* in the pipe, that's a lot of heat that could be in my house.

 

[laynes69]

I don't think it's a matter of not being able to control it since the stove isn't going above the limits listed in the manual, but I think it would burn even longer than it does already and more heat would be going into the room/house rather than up the chimney. If it is 1200-1500* in the pipe, that's a lot of heat that could be in my house.

If your internal flue temps are that high with the stove shut down, you can't control the stove properly due to a tall stack. As far as the limits, the stove won't get too hot because too much air is going through the firebox. That will cool the stove. Get a damper in that pipe, and your flue temps should drop close or lower than the stove top. You will get more heat and save wood. Normally a EPA unit wouldn't need a damper, but there are setups.. mine included that need them.

 

[savageactor7]

Well that could be true if you do have a extra strong draft.

We burn hot all the time...sometimes when the stovetop gets way up there we'll turn the stove blower on and that will reduce stove top temp.

...just saying I put an inline damper on to preserve some of the escaping heat a little longer. In my experience that has increased the stove top temp...which is good for us. We don't have a run away draft.

 

[pook]

I don't think it's a matter of not being able to control it since the stove isn't going above the limits listed in the manual, but I think it would burn even longer than it does already and more heat would be going into the room/house rather than up the chimney. If it is 1200-1500* in the pipe, that's a lot of heat that could be in my house.

Thats hot! Dont forget that hot air has less density than cold & heat loss will be determined by the amount of air involved although the chimni does have a circular draft of sorts