Flywheel Installation Gone Bad!

[AZLOGGER]

Spacemule It'll work easy as long as you use a 20oz. plus hammer and a pair of 14r Vice Grips to tweak the flywheel fins as you hammer. Also, sometimes it helps to use a hot wrench (blow torch) on the threads to help things along. From another thread

A true story Sunday PM.
I was in the process of finishing up the total rebuild of a 575XPW, new crank, new P/C, and the total 9 yds. Prior to installing the flywheel, I prelubed the crank bearing and put a small dab of engine assembly lube on the crank to aid in installation of the seal, installed seal then installed flywheel, torqued nut to specified torque. I then finished up installing all parts and pieces on powerhead, filled with mix and bar oil, checked for leaks (none), installed bar & chain. Now its time to start it, 3 pulls with choke on, it pops, take choke off 1 pull and its alive, let it idle for a few mins, then I rev it up a couple of times (wow we are doing great, then it starts running like crap WTF) I shut it off due to darkness and frustration.
Monday AM start checking saw out to find out what the hell went wrong, I check and re-check everything (everything checks out OK), so now I wonder if I accidental rolled the lip on the seal when I installed it (yes you start doubting your own expertise) so now I pull the flywheel off and there's the problem, the fricking flywheel key has sheared off. The reason the flywheel key sheared off, was that I failed to clean the assembly lube off of the tapered portion of the crankshaft. I clean crankshaft install a new flywheel, saw starts & runs like a new saw (the way its supposed to).
I believe this has been touched on in another thread, but now you have it from someone thats been there, done that. Flywheel taper clean and degreased also crankshaft taper clean and degreased

Complete saw rebuild 650.00
New Flywheel 81.50
Clean crankshaft PRICELESS

 

[Modifiedmark]

Nice story, but I have a question to ask. Why would you spend over $700 rebuilding a saw when you can buy a new 575xp with a 24" bar and chain and a warranty for $719.

Maybe I'm missing something here and I like to fool with rebuilding saws too but....

 

[mattinky]

Don't you just love those molded in flywheel keys? I wish the saw manufacturers had those flywheels shoved up their @ss!

 

[Lakeside53]

The key is only there to keep the FW in place while you tighten. A tougher key doesn't help that..

The problem with the molded key is that you cannot lap the FW to the crank for a better fit. Some I've seen have lousy fits...


I likely wouldn't have replaced the FW... just put it on without a key.

 

[Saw Dr.]

The key is only there to keep the FW in place while you tighten. A tougher key doesn't help that..

The problem with the molded key is that you cannot lap the FW to the crank for a better fit. Some I've seen have lousy fits...


I likely wouldn't have replaced the FW... just put it on without a key.

+1 after I advanced it about 3 degrees

 

[AZLOGGER]

Nice story, but I have a question to ask. Why would you spend over $700 rebuilding a saw when you can buy a new 575xp with a 24" bar and chain and a warranty for $719.

Maybe I'm missing something here and I like to fool with rebuilding saws too but....

It's Not my saw.

It belongs to a department of the local native american tribe here. (Your tax dollars at work)

One of the directors of that department mixed the gas at 2.5gal mix for 5gal gas for their 2 cycle saws. Not the smartest cookie in the barrel)

Saw less than 1 yr. old. (Almost new)

I make more on parts and labor than selling new units. (Shhhhh)

I think they will buy new saws now instead of repairing them. (Oh Shucks)

I had to eat the cost of the flywheel. (My screw-up)

You have the right to be confused.

 

[AZLOGGER]

The key is only there to keep the FW in place while you tighten. A tougher key doesn't help that..

The problem with the molded key is that you cannot lap the FW to the crank for a better fit. Some I've seen have lousy fits...


I likely wouldn't have replaced the FW... just put it on without a key.

Andy I could of done that, but I was the one that screwed it up, so I replaced it (gotta live with yourself).

Any one need a degreeable 575 flywheel, its yours for the cost of shipping.

 

[Modifiedmark]

It's Not my saw.

It belongs to a department of the local native american tribe here. (Your tax dollars at work)

One of the directors of that department mixed the gas at 2.5gal mix for 5gal gas for their 2 cycle saws. Not the smartest cookie in the barrel)

Saw less than 1 yr. old. (Almost new)

I make more on parts and labor than selling new units. (Shhhhh)

I think they will buy new saws now instead of repairing them. (Oh Shucks)

I had to eat the cost of the flywheel. (My screw-up)

You have the right to be confused.

Ok, you know I just had to ask.

 

[Jacob J.]

Andy I could of done that, but I was the one that screwed it up, so I replaced it (gotta live with yourself).

Any one need a degreeable 575 flywheel, its yours for the cost of shipping.

Is it the regular flywheel? I've been after an XPG flywheel for a 575xpg project I've had now for months...

 

[mattinky]

The key is only there to keep the FW in place while you tighten. A tougher key doesn't help that..

The problem with the molded key is that you cannot lap the FW to the crank for a better fit. Some I've seen have lousy fits...


I likely wouldn't have replaced the FW... just put it on without a key.

You're right Andy, I guess the point I was trying to make is I'd rather replace a $2 sheared key than spend $81 for a whole new flywheel

 

[AZLOGGER]

Is it the regular flywheel? I've been after an XPG flywheel for a 575xpg project I've had now for months...

Sorry Jacob but it's the regular XP flywheel not the XPG style.