For you guys that trailer your splitter...how in the heck do you get it secured?

[taylor6400]

Everytime i have to trailer my splitter i have to stop a couple times to adjust straps. Is that my first problem? Cheap straps? I normally put the jack up and set it down on the ball coupler with the foot in the air. Then i run 4 straps to the diagonals. Never fails...something loosens and i see the splitter getting some play in it before i make it to destination. Rough dirt roads are part of the problem, but maybe cheap straps are part too?

Any tips on tie down placements?

 

[brenndatomu]

Mount a ball to your trailer for the splitter hitch to clamp on, then just strap the splitter axle/wheels down. If you have a good ratchet strap and are using smart tie down technique, they should never loosen.

The ball idea is not mine, just passing something on that I seen here on AS somewheres before. :msp_smile:

 

[nathon918]

Mount a ball to your trailer for the splitter hitch to clamp on, then just strap the splitter axle/wheels down. If you have a good ratchet strap and are using smart tie down technique, they should never loosen.

im guessing your using the pull type straps, and not ratchet straps?
those are about as good as a bungee cord... people like them because theyre "quick" theyre not quick when you have to keep stopping to tighten them, or your load falls off the truck.
Get ratchet straps!!

 

[Streblerm]

I use cheap straps too

I think using four straps may be your problem. I only use two. I run the front strap from the front of the trailer through the handle on the tongue and back to the front of the trailer making a "V". I usually run one from the back of the trailer through the beam's pivot point back to the other side of the back of the trailer making another "V". The two "Vs" center the splitter in the trailer and dont allow it to go anywhere. I like to strap it under the beam since the beam can wobble a bit

Another thought is your tires. Make sure they are aired up. If they are low they may allow the splitter to bounce a little which will loosen up the straps in a hurry.

 

[Streblerm]

im guessing your using the pull type straps, and not ratchet straps?
those are about as good as a bungee cord... people like them because theyre "quick" theyre not quick when you have to keep stopping to tighten them, or your load falls off the truck.
Get ratchet straps!!

Good point. I'm talking about ratchet straps.

 

[taylor6400]

Im using ratchet straps. But i think i need to get better straps. I seem to go through straps fast because it seems like most stuff i haul tears them up. Which is the reason i am using 4. It seems like if you dont use the hook to attach to things the straps fray very quickly if rubbing on steel.

I like the ball idea on trailer.

 

[beerman6]

When I rebuilt my trailer I added a receiver to the front wall for a hitch specifically for towing my splitter It's been 4 years and my splitter hasnt been in the trailer once!

I did have to bail out my BIL when his cooker had a blow-out and I got to use it then,worked out awesome.

 

[camr]

As others have said, your problem can be summed up in two words: Cheap Straps.

Get yourself some 2" wide ones with heavy-duty ratchets and a rating of 8,000-10,000 lbs. from Mac's or M&R, install some stout D-rings to the floor/frame of your trailer and never look back.

 

[nathon918]

As others have said, your problem can be summed up in two words: Cheap Straps.

Get yourself some 2" wide ones with heavy-duty ratchets and a rating of 8,000-10,000 lbs. from Mac's or M&R, install some stout D-rings to the floor/frame of your trailer and never look back.

thats all i use 10,000 lb. 27ft 2 inch straps, theyre a good tow strap in a pinch too

 

[MPE]

Chains and chain binders, attached fore and aft.

 

[blackdogon57]

Chains and chain binders, attached fore and aft.

I agree. Chains don't wear out and are very handy to have around when you or someone else gets stuck.

 

[Streblerm]

Jeez guys, he's transporting a splitter that I bet he can push up into the trailer by hand, not a car.

I have hauled all manner of things using cheap ratchet straps, granted most of these things weigh less than #1000. The reason I buy the cheap ones is so that I don't feel bad about throwing them away once they get frayed.

If the straps are loosening up as you haul then I suspect the load isn't centered and/or the straps aren't tight. As you haul over bumpy roads the load finds it's center and the straps get loose. Rather than focusing on tying things "down" I worry more about strapping them front to back. If you pull it tight forward and backward then it has nowhere to go.

Save the 5 ton straps, chains, and ratchet binders for hauling cars or cargo on Semi trailers. Cheap ratchet straps should be plenty to haul atvs, splitters, motorcycles, furniture etc.

 

[nathon918]

Jeez guys, he's transporting a splitter that I bet he can push up into the trailer by hand, not a car.

I have hauled all manner of things using cheap ratchet straps, granted most of these things weigh less than #1000. The reason I buy the cheap ones is so that I don't feel bad about throwing them away once they get frayed.

If the straps are loosening up as you haul then I suspect the load isn't centered and/or the straps aren't tight. As you haul over bumpy roads the load finds it's center and the straps get loose. Rather than focusing on tying things "down" I worry more about strapping them front to back. If you pull it tight forward and backward then it has nowhere to go.

Save the 5 ton straps, chains, and ratchet binders for hauling cars or cargo on Semi trailers. Cheap ratchet straps should be plenty to haul atvs, splitters, motorcycles, furniture etc.

if you buy quality, they do fall apart like cheap ones, ive had mine about 8 years, i use them nearly everyday, i beat the #### out of them and they dont break, i use a 3 foot pry bar sometimes on the ratchet to tighten them, and they still work great, they do have some minor cuts as would be expected, but still very useable.

i also agree on chain and binders, but not for this particular application, usually save those for hauling cars, tractors and the such...

 

[kwalshy]

Im using ratchet straps. But i think i need to get better straps. I seem to go through straps fast because it seems like most stuff i haul tears them up. Which is the reason i am using 4. It seems like if you dont use the hook to attach to things the straps fray very quickly if rubbing on steel.QUOTE]

To prevent the strap from becoming torn or damaged I use a piece of fabric or an old T-shirt and place it between the metal & strap. This cushions the vibration and helps prevent that friction from tearing the strap.

 

[Walt41]

There are bolt on strap points that you can enlarge the holes on and add to your wheel Lug assembly, run a ratchet strap thru them and it is going nowhere.

 

[Jredsjeep]

you can see my hitchball mount here, it works great. i have used straps before and they always seem to work there way loose. this way is much more solid and i can travel downt he highway without worry.
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/150789.htm

 

[Jredsjeep]

Here are the pictures from my thread
View attachment 281458
View attachment 281459
View attachment 281460

sorry i have been playing and even with the help i cannot get the pics to show without clicking on them

 

[camr]

Jeez guys, he's transporting a splitter that I bet he can push up into the trailer by hand, not a car.

I have hauled all manner of things using cheap ratchet straps, granted most of these things weigh less than #1000. The reason I buy the cheap ones is so that I don't feel bad about throwing them away once they get frayed.
If the straps are loosening up as you haul then I suspect the load isn't centered and/or the straps aren't tight. As you haul over bumpy roads the load finds it's center and the straps get loose. Rather than focusing on tying things "down" I worry more about strapping them front to back. If you pull it tight forward and backward then it has nowhere to go.

Save the 5 ton straps, chains, and ratchet binders for hauling cars or cargo on Semi trailers. Cheap ratchet straps should be plenty to haul atvs, splitters, motorcycles, furniture etc.

Not trying to pick a fight but I have to ask, how are you going to feel when one of those cheap straps breaks at some inopportune moment and your cargo/truck/trailer gets damaged or worse, somebody gets hurt?

 

[Streblerm]

Not trying to pick a fight but I have to ask, how are you going to feel when one of those cheap straps breaks at some inopportune moment and your cargo/truck/trailer gets damaged or worse, somebody gets hurt?

Oh, you've started a fight. We are talking about a #500 pound (maybe) splitter not a piece of heavy equipment. Chains and 5 ton rated straps are WAAAAY overkill. Working load limits for straps are 1/3 of their break strength so a #10000 2" strap is good for a 3500# load. a 1" inexpensive strap is plenty for tying down a log splitter, especially if you are using Two or four of them. Even the cheap HF straps have a 1200# break strength and a 400# working load

I would never haul anything that I didn't consider secure. I tie stuff down that most people wouldnt even worry about because I'm thinking about what might happen in a panic stop or evasive manuver. The recommendations to tie down a log splitter like it was an excavator are ridiculous. You safety nazis can feel free to tie things down however you like but don't try to tell me that a log splitter in a trailer needs $500 worth of tie downs to be safe.

Drive safe:msp_razz:

The recommendation to mount a receiver in the trailer is a good one. I could see that being useful for more than just tying down a splitter. Winch mount comes to mind.

 

[4seasons]

From a Professional Truck Driver.

Quick background, I have hauled all manner of equipment as a profession truck driver. I have had to take special classes and get special certification to haul certain things in order to prove that I know how to secure a load.

The real trick with securing something on wheels is triangulation. What I mean by that is rather than simply throwing a strap over and cranking it down till it is tight like you can with hauling lumber or pipe you must create triangles with your straps that squeeze the load to that it can't roll. Car haulers have it easy because they can simply throw a web over the tires or chains over the axle so that it cant roll, thus loosening the straps. If you have anchor points on your trailer right below the tires of your splitter you could do the same thing, but the chances of that are not good. So what you need to do us strap around the axle pulling it forward and to the tongue pulling it backward. This creates at triangle because if the load tries to move forward the tongue straps pull it back and down into the floor of the trailer. Same thing happens if the splitter tries to roll back, the axle straps pull it forward and down so that it can't go anywhere. In order to prevent lateral movement (side to side) use 2 straps on the tongue pulling back and to opposite sides. This will triangulate the lateral movement as well. Using this method you will need four straps but unless a strap breaks or an anchor point snaps your splitter will never move.

Which brings up strap safety. Many of the cheep straps don't have load ratings or some really low rating. I like to have 2 times the load rating of the load so if you have a 1000lbs splitter and are using four 500lbs straps to secure it you should be good. Mind that that the load rating is only for a strap in good condition. To avoid cutting or fraying a strap use a scrap of carpet or some thick cardboard between the fabric of the strap and any metal it touches. This will also protect the paint on your splitter because the straps won't rub and vibrate directly against the finish.

Which brings me to my final word of safe trailering. You should always load a bumper or receiver hitch pulled trailer towards the front. I have seen many people stick something on a little trailer, shut the tailgate of the trailer and go down the road. Then whatever they loaded rolls to the back of the trailer and the trailer starts walking the tow vehicle. This has cause many accident. The general rule of thumb is 55%+ trailer weight forward of the axle. Of course if you are not sure how much weight is in front better to err on the side off caution. As long as you don't exceed the tongue weight of your bumper, hitch, or trailer, you are good to go. If you only have a few pound more on the tongue than on the tail of a trailer just pulling a good hill can shift weight to the tail and unbalance your tow rig. The heavier the trailer the more dangerous this can be.