FORCED AIR OUTDOOR STOVE..i need HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

[fun175]

existing registers

I used 2 existing floor registers. just removed ducting from
furnace trunk line and capped. then ran new 8 inch ducting
to the registers! NO Flex duct with wood heat!! Your blower on woodstove will run as long as
stove has fire. you get continous heat from the 2 registers, unlike
ur home furnace which cycles off and on as thermostat calls
for heat. trial and error controls temp. in house.....more wood,
damper opened further....wood type all work together
to control heat output.. If its to hot in home....open a window
or door....thats what we do!!! You get better at predicting heat requirements
with experiance!

 

[asg13]

I used 2 existing floor registers. just removed ducting from
furnace trunk line and capped. then ran new 8 inch ducting
to the registers! NO Flex duct with wood heat!! Your blower on woodstove will run as long as
stove has fire. you get continous heat from the 2 registers, unlike
ur home furnace which cycles off and on as thermostat calls
for heat. trial and error controls temp. in house.....more wood,
damper opened further....wood type all work together
to control heat output.. If its to hot in home....open a window
or door....thats what we do!!! You get better at predicting heat requirements
with experiance!

Thanks for all the help...I may end up going this route..one of the only reasons i bought the stove was to distribute an even heat..however, I am getting tired of wasting so much time in dealing with it!

My dampner/draft is thermo controlled so i guess it would still technecally work, but it would constantly blow.I also only have 1 8" hot air supply. anyway i could get a splitter or something to make 2?

 

[fun175]

single 8 inch duct

put a "T" in the duct.......
Your wood blower will need to run anytime the stove "Plenum"
is hot to keep from overheating..

 

[abikerboy]

View attachment 267555


This is the way that I have mine set up (hopefully my image shows up), the wood stove has it's own hot air vent and it's own return as shown. Sorry that my drawing sucks. I keep the fan switch to my oil furnace set to run the blower continuously, and the return to my oil furnace picks up the hot air from the wood stove and circulates it throughout the house. I have spoken with a heating guy, and he says that the added wear on the oil furnace blower would be minimal even from having it running constantly, and I haven't noticed any extra on my electric either, so I assume that the blower doesn't use much energy. I figure that burning wood saves me enough money that if I do eventually have to replace a blower motor slightly earlier than most, at least it's payed it's own way. This setup seems to keep all of my house at an even temp, though on the downside of it, the air coming from the central furnace floor registers is quite cooler than it would be with the oil burner running.

 

[blades]

First if this is the metalized plastic flex stuff that is a major no-no. Alum. not so bad. Any flex duct has internal ridges due to the spiral wind of its construction . This sets up internal interference that reduces the are flow as much as a 100 cfm/10ft. Next in order for you to utilize your furnace blower you need to feed the hot line from the wood unit to the existing furnaces plenum, then you need a parallel power circuit with a thermostatic switch installed in/on the plenum to control the on/off function of that blower. This is fairly simple if the blower is run off standard house current through a relay controlled by the circuit board of the standard furnace. ( basically a bypass of the cpu board) If the furnace blower is a direct drive or DC powered directly from the circuit board of the existing furnace the base principal is the same. In this case the the paralleled thermostatic (in the plenum) switch would need to be in the constant run circuit from your t-stat in the house. In either case the additional thermostatic switch allows a lag time for the plenum to reach a desired heat rise before the existing blower kicks on. You mentioned a heat pump and these i am not as familar with as to the ducting arrangements. I just consider them as ac units working in reverse ( which is about what they are, pricey to run around here with our electric rates). One other issue would be if the heat pump is using a an A coil for heat/cold exchange make sure of its max temperature rating, it is possible to have a high enough heat from the wood unit to cause damage to that A coil.( too much !@#%$%$#@ plastic in everything now days) Sorry if I rambled a bit here but should give the right idea.

 

[asg13]

View attachment 267555


This is the way that I have mine set up (hopefully my image shows up), the wood stove has it's own hot air vent and it's own return as shown. Sorry that my drawing sucks. I keep the fan switch to my oil furnace set to run the blower continuously, and the return to my oil furnace picks up the hot air from the wood stove and circulates it throughout the house. I have spoken with a heating guy, and he says that the added wear on the oil furnace blower would be minimal even from having it running constantly, and I haven't noticed any extra on my electric either, so I assume that the blower doesn't use much energy. I figure that burning wood saves me enough money that if I do eventually have to replace a blower motor slightly earlier than most, at least it's payed it's own way. This setup seems to keep all of my house at an even temp, though on the downside of it, the air coming from the central furnace floor registers is quite cooler than it would be with the oil burner running.

Thanks for taking the time in speaking with me yesterday! I really appreciate it..

Have a safe and WARM winter...

Alex

 

[asg13]

First if this is the metalized plastic flex stuff that is a major no-no. Alum. not so bad. Any flex duct has internal ridges due to the spiral wind of its construction . This sets up internal interference that reduces the are flow as much as a 100 cfm/10ft. Next in order for you to utilize your furnace blower you need to feed the hot line from the wood unit to the existing furnaces plenum, then you need a parallel power circuit with a thermostatic switch installed in/on the plenum to control the on/off function of that blower. This is fairly simple if the blower is run off standard house current through a relay controlled by the circuit board of the standard furnace. ( basically a bypass of the cpu board) If the furnace blower is a direct drive or DC powered directly from the circuit board of the existing furnace the base principal is the same. In this case the the paralleled thermostatic (in the plenum) switch would need to be in the constant run circuit from your t-stat in the house. In either case the additional thermostatic switch allows a lag time for the plenum to reach a desired heat rise before the existing blower kicks on. You mentioned a heat pump and these i am not as familar with as to the ducting arrangements. I just consider them as ac units working in reverse ( which is about what they are, pricey to run around here with our electric rates). One other issue would be if the heat pump is using a an A coil for heat/cold exchange make sure of its max temperature rating, it is possible to have a high enough heat from the wood unit to cause damage to that A coil.( too much !@#%$%$#@ plastic in everything now days) Sorry if I rambled a bit here but should give the right idea.

Blades, I understand the flex duct and CFM issue..However, my flex is rated at 250* if that matters..

I am trying to following what u are saying in regards to the fan but I can not..I have little experience with all of this and am slowly learning..Some of the lingo confuses me..

I have a POWER BREAK is what i would call it that will kill the circut to my existing fan and only come on when the air reaches 120-140 degrees..I HAVE NOT spliced it in becasue I am worried that it will eliminate my use of my electric heat pump if I am not around to feed my stove. I must have it in an emergeny or if I am out of town. Can it be Spliced in and still have the heat pump operate or will it not allow the fan to kick on? It is my understanding that a heat pump will never see air temps of 120 degrees, therefor not allowing it to function?

Right now, I am just running my fan continuously when I have a fire in the stove..It is working but I am sure if it kicked off and on it would be much more effecient. Right now it prob cools the air down to much running it continuosly..

I hope this makes since..

thanks

 

[blades]

Power break - your description sounds like a thermostatic switch, at any rate the item in question completes the circuit at a predetermined temperature and breaks the circuit when below, most furnaces use a type that has a setting for off and one for on and the component connected to it runs during those parameters. There is likely a more generic name for this I just am drawing a blank. The simplest ones are just a snap action switch using a by-metal leaf internally and are mostly surface mounted. The one in a standard furnace has a tube that is inserted into the plenum several inches for a better control it is also a bi-metalic unit and operates as i described above.

If this is wired in parallel to the existing circuits it should not effect the original equipment operation. A reasonably able HVAC person should comprehend what I have described. It is nothing new or out in left field by any means.

The only thing that gets a bit dicey is the stepped drive units ( those that operate the blower at different speeds in order to achieve a high efficiency

 

[asg13]

Power break - your description sounds like a thermostatic switch, at any rate the item in question completes the circuit at a predetermined temperature and breaks the circuit when below, most furnaces use a type that has a setting for off and one for on and the component connected to it runs during those parameters. There is likely a more generic name for this I just am drawing a blank. The simplest ones are just a snap action switch using a by-metal leaf internally and are mostly surface mounted. The one in a standard furnace has a tube that is inserted into the plenum several inches for a better control it is also a bi-metalic unit and operates as i described above.

If this is wired in parallel to the existing circuits it should not effect the original equipment operation. A reasonably able HVAC person should comprehend what I have described. It is nothing new or out in left field by any means.

The only thing that gets a bit dicey is the stepped drive units ( those that operate the blower at different speeds in order to achieve a high efficiency

thanks alot blades..I think you are spot on..I have a buddy that helped me install it..We are going to hopefully take time to look at it this week..

Thanks

 

[abikerboy]

Thanks for taking the time in speaking with me yesterday! I really appreciate it..

Have a safe and WARM winter...

Alex

You're welcome. Hope I was some help. When you install the power break, I would be very interested to know how it works. I don't know anything about heat pumps, but I would be curious if the power break senses temperature, or if it senses power to the wood furnace fan.

 

[asg13]

You're welcome. Hope I was some help. When you install the power break, I would be very interested to know how it works. I don't know anything about heat pumps, but I would be curious if the power break senses temperature, or if it senses power to the wood furnace fan.

It will sense temperature is has a setting between 120 -150 i believe jus set it and go..suppose ti allow hot air to buid in duct befire kickin on...

 

[blades]

The name I could not think of the other day " Fan Limit Control"

 

[practicaldesign]

With my hopsco odf 2000, or with the 1500 model (1500 model being slightly smaller) The standard installation you might see with the Wadena brand is to connect the hot air from the hopsco to the hot air plenum of your (lets say oil furnace) and the cold air intake to the cold air plenum of that same furnace.
Cold air intakes and hot air vents should be far from each other otherwise you get a pressure imbalance and the intake/output start fighting each other for air.
I don't have a problem with mine because the cold air intake vents pull form the other end of the house which gives a good circulation pattern.
My problem with any outdoor force air furnace is when the oil furnace comes on and start blowing air into outdoor furnace ducts. I installed an auto key or dampener that closes the outdoor furnace vents when the oil comes on (with safety temperature switch).