OK, I have been researching the outdoor options. I kinda was sold on the otdoor forced air option due to it simplicity and low cost. My neighbor who is a pipefitter has been working me like a speedbag that it won't work and the boiler is the only was to go. My house is pretty small less then 2000 ft2. Anyone have a forced air ? Especially a Fire Chief?
forced air vs boiler
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lampmfg
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Forced air indoor furnace
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If your interested in the most efficient and safest forced air indoor wood furnace on the market do a little research on the Kuuma VaporFire.
For 2000 square fee the VaporFire 200 would be a perfect fit. Remember No Smoke mean No Creosote...
freemind
ArboristSite Guru
I built my own.
I don't like the idea of the Firechief and others, that have ONE register in the wall that brings in heat. In a small, very open home, it may work good. On a two story, or one with many walls, I have serious doubts.
My furnace hooks up to my existing duct work.
I don't like the idea of the Firechief and others, that have ONE register in the wall that brings in heat. In a small, very open home, it may work good. On a two story, or one with many walls, I have serious doubts.
My furnace hooks up to my existing duct work.
duane9835
ArboristSite Operative
What type of heat does your house have Now???
I have a forced air oil furnance, the house is two story no duct work upstairs. There are additions on the ends hard to build a chimney. I am leaning towards a boiler now, the heat storage in the tank must make it much more efficeint
just remember there is no free ride! A hot water system will set you back a pretty penny, figure the payback period. I have a homemade hotair outdoor unit that I love, you just have to tend to it a little more as there is no way to store the excess heat.
good luck!~
good luck!~
howard270
Addicted to ArboristSite
I too am interested in the outdoor forced air furnace and have done hundreds of hours of research on the different brands out there. Also, have been PMing some guys about their outdoor furnaces. For me, I have narrowed it down to the Hopsco or the Shaver Thermorwind. Again, these are the two that I think will fit my situation the best.
These can tie into my existing ductwork quite easily, just need to add a cool air intake/return. The main thing is all the mess will stay outside, since I do all the cleaning.
Due to the simplicity, I am thinking of installing one of these smaller units in my great-aunts house that I am currently living in and using it for this next winter, and if I like it just undo the ductwork and take it out to my house on the farm next summer, if not I will install it in the shop to keep it warm and go another route.
These can tie into my existing ductwork quite easily, just need to add a cool air intake/return. The main thing is all the mess will stay outside, since I do all the cleaning.
Due to the simplicity, I am thinking of installing one of these smaller units in my great-aunts house that I am currently living in and using it for this next winter, and if I like it just undo the ductwork and take it out to my house on the farm next summer, if not I will install it in the shop to keep it warm and go another route.
CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Any warm air furnace can tie into your ducting easily.I just checked out your 2 best choices.
I want to make some comparisons....not much info available to do that.
You would be much better off with a Yukon than either of those 2 choices....like Kuuma said no smoke means no creosote.
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gwiley
Addicted to ArboristSite
I run a CB 5036 (outdoor, water jacket) that is tied into our ductwork and domestic hot water via a heat exchanger. This thing eats wood like a monster, but it is impossible to calculate the savings with 3 kids that take forever showers.
I would not go forced air b/c it would likely eat even more wood than my OWB and I have a hard time feeding the 10 cords per year I deal with now.
I would not go forced air b/c it would likely eat even more wood than my OWB and I have a hard time feeding the 10 cords per year I deal with now.
howard270
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was waiting for you to chime in Keith. Have read all your posts regarding furnaces and boilers that I can find.
PM sent.
CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
You live in Va. Just imagine having a much heavier heat load living in a colder climate like Mn.
....and you think you go through wood there.Try 10-30 below zero...you may want to think about adding insulation to your home.
laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't think at this time any of the outdoor forced units are very efficient. There are some around here and they use much more wood than we do with their smaller homes. Also the OWB'S use more wood than we do. If I had to go outside, I would look into a gasification boiler with storage. Expensive yes, but very efficient. Most outdoor forced air furnaces are a simple firebox and baffle. They produce alot of smoke and waste wood. Other than the mess being outdoors, there are many positives having an efficient wood furnace indoors. Woodfurnaces are starting to clean up and there are many nice units on the market.
Schells
ArboristSite Operative
I agree mn has a few cold days. I heat my house, attached garage, and a 30 by50 shop with a cb 6048. Love it, they do like wood but all stoves do when it that cold and heat for so many months. I had a forced air stove and went to a cb and love it.
CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well you most certainly have the situation where a OWB would come in really handy...glad it is doing what you need it to do.
CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree ,but if you bought an efficient warm air furnace and then did all you could to insulate that furnace and the ducting lines..having them as short as possible you could achieve heating your home the way you want.
when I agreed ...it was the idea that the marketed outdoor warm air furnaces were the ones you were referring to..an assumption.
abikerboy
ArboristSite Operative
I've got the Hopsco E-1000 forced air stove, and through the cold months I've been very impressed with it's heating. Upon doing some cleaning it out and all of the good stuff recently, I did find a couple of minor issues with the construction of the unit that has slightly disappointed me. Hopefully will have it straightened out professionaly soon. So far, I think that after getting the bugs ironed out, this unit will be worth all of the effort expended!
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
If you have'nt allready, look at hardy. All stainless, smaller water capacity/large firebox.
I've had my H-2 23 years.
CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
hardly....if the unit is not able to make all of the btu's per lb then having thermal mass in a big water tank doesn't add to efficiency.
Also if your adding glycol your heat transfer drops even more.,,,by as much as 30%.
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
Keith is correct (not sucking up tho, bud!). The gasifier has the best combustion efficiency, but you need lots of storage, very well insulated, to make it work effectively. To run a gasifier, you basically have to "blast burn". Build a fire, let it burn, heat the water in your storage, then it shuts down. I have a Central CB 5036 heating a 1200 s.f. house, 800 s.f. shop, adding domestic h.w. soon, maybe a small greenhouse in the future. I have forced air heat/A.C., but no basement. If I did, I would go with the forced air furnace, you can add an electronic air filter, humidifier, etc., and if you want to get really fancy, you can zone the ductwork. But, a well-designed hydronic system, whether baseboard/radiators/radiant, is the most comfortable form of heat made by man.
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