I stand corrected , I looked at my Amsoil Sabre Professional where it is a Designated ISO-L EGD & Jaso FD Compliant , Not Certified , actually a moot point in the real world , but Ben is correct !
Fully Synthetic 2 Cycle Oil Vs Standard?
- Thread starter Michael Kent
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Only a moot point if you prefer to deal with companies that try to mislead you.
Ben , they worked fine within the perimeters of the oil technology and engine designs of the time and the tested applications that they were utilized , that was and is my point Bud !
Nothing misleading , Sabre is a fine oil for my applications , ever hear of the term Equivalency ? Eg: Certified vs Specified Compliant !
No offence taken Andre !
Yes , Sabre Professional is a very fine ester 10 yrs use in real world testing has proven that to me !
My Pioneer 11:60 & P-20 or the Quaker State Mineral oil , did not suck then or now , both saws manufactured with Chrome Plated Bore , Full Torrington Crank Caged Ball Bearings with 18 " & 16 " bars and 404 chains . Specified for 16:1 ratio Mineral oil in the 60,s . Today 60 yrs later run within original compression spec,s on Sabre @ 40:1 the last 10 yrs !
Oh really.....you just worked that out. Well done! Keep digesting the look aid.
Its either certified or its NOT. Clearly you got taken.
@ under $10:00 / litre ..not !
And you cant tell if it is equivalent without running the tests, which Scamsoil hasnt.
I see redundancy is another one of your traits , I think this question has already been adequately answered to the op,s satisfaction !
You dont even have a clue what ash content is..that's pretty apparent.
No, it didnt. It actually worked terribly by any measure.
Rating and specifications in my view can be thrown out the window on two strokes. Three things happen simultaneously on two strokes that is very difficult to measure exactly. Gas mixed with oil is introduced into engine via carburetor. First the oil need to settle often through small ports on the connecting rod and at the same time also settle around main bearings thus lubricating all the bearings. The bearings are not very sensitive to heat likely less than 300 F. So the easiest items to lubricate are the bearings. Should a high performance oil throughly mix with gas or merely be suspended in the gasoline. The fuel mixture gets pumped into the combustion chamber and ignited. Regardless of many conditions the fuel and oil can not completely oxidize in the combustion chamber or there would be little or very little lubrication for the rings. So oils that burn really clean are not very desirable in two strokes or if the oil again is suspended with out burning might be better. Fully synthetic oils have the ability to experience very high temperatures with out braking down as compared to petroleum based oils, but they the petroleum oils burn more efficiently than synthetic. So the process still seem to have pros for one and cons for another. Thanks
It was a handheld stihl blower BG56 a guy brought in (99% of the time I only work on saws but I have kept up on his equipment for years so I told him I would look at it).
The manufacture date on the blower was 8/18 and he brought it to me 8/19.
What difference does it make?
For starters pre mixed oil and gasoline is not what lubricates your engine. When the premixed oil and gasoline pass through the carb and enter the engine the vast majority of fuel portion of the mixture flashes into vapour and the oil drops out of suspension coating the cylinder walls, bearings, etc. The piston then descends and pushes the vapour into the combustion chamber where it can be compressed, ignited and do work. The only oil that's in the combustion chamber is the small amount above the piston rings and excess that is forced up through the transfers. This oil must combust cleanly and fully or you end up with all sorts of problems such as exhaust port blockage, fouled spark plugs and stuck pistons rings.
Synthetics like some esters and PIB's are useful because they combust very cleanly, yet maintain excellent film strength on bearings and cylinder walls. In the old days high density mineral base oils or bright stock were used to provide the same sort of film strength, but instead of reaching there critical point and unzippering into the easily combustable components they where made of like synthetics they instead partially combusted and form all kinds of residue. This manifested itself in port blockage, heavy smoke, etc. Castor functioned similar to heavy oils except under high heat it polymerize into ever more complex carbon chains and form a varnish that all but the highest temps will not combust fully. Of course the penalty for this is port blockage, smoke, and heavy deposits on the ring lands which will stick a ring sooner or latter. Additives can be used to mitigate some of the deposit issues of castor's and heavy mineral oils, but they also lead to their own issues such was mettalic deposits on the crown and head that cause pre ignition and plug fouling due to metallics grounding out the spark plug.
So oils that burn very clean are indeed very important and have in fact been the main advancement in two cycle oils over the years. Not only do they provide for less smoke, but they also provided for longer engine life and higher HP over time due to better cleanliness of the ring grooves.
Ratings and specifications are very important because different applications require different formulations. What works well in a outboard motor, works poorly in a chainsaw. Specifications tell a guy which oil is suitable for which application and that set oil meets certain test criteria that pertain to the quality of the lubricant.
I was curious because I have a very difficult time believing that a chainsaw, leaf blower, anything running such a popular oil, at the correct mixture, operated correctly, without some other inherent issue, would develop that kind of carbon buildup as a direct result of using that particular Stihl oil.
My guess is the guy is doing something like mixing it 20:1 or more, either by accident or knowingly, for whatever reason.
Why isn't every user of that oil reporting the same issue?
I hate to break it to you but you are wrong.
First off believe what you want to and think what ever you would like.
I have seen this probably a dozen times in the last 10 or so years.
Second, he mixes 1 gallon of ethanol free fuel (gets his fuel the same place I do) to a 1 gallon ultra oil bottle. He got them with a warranty deal.
Lastly why would I waste my time posting false/inaccurate findings? It is what it is, I really dont care.
For the record like I mentioned before I have worked on his equipment for years and he runs several pro grade saws using different oil with the same ratio and fuel and all of them have checked out fine for years and years.
No need to take offense, i didn't mean any.
If you've observed this a number of times and are very confident in the user not doing something wrong, then I can believe the oil could cause this. I had a hard time believing it because I've run a lot of 2 strokes for many years using WHATEVER was laying around mixed 32:1, and i also maintained a tree company's fleet of Huskys and Stihls (we exclusively used Husky XP oil), and i never saw an exhaust port that looked that bad.
I guess I'll stick to Echo oil.
