Getting a mill

[Mr_Brushcutter]

Hi

I've recently got myself a MS660 to do the odd bit of milling with. The 3120 and 880 were a significat chunk of cash more which is why i settled for the 660. I'd like to get a 36" Mk3 alaskan mill. My question is how does one attach it to the bar? is it a drilling job or does it clamp on like the mini mill? If it does need to be drilled can you still use the bar for cross cutting or will i need another. The first log i'll be milling is a 11' length of 24" Beach. Got some Cherry and some Sycamore maybe some English Oak too.

 

[hautions11]

Milling

No mods to the bar, it simply clamps on.

 

[amdburner]

It clamps to the bar like the mini but has clamps on both ends. I have a 24" MKIII which I recently aquired. I have only had the chance to try it a couple of weeks ago on 2 15" pine logs and one 10" red oak but all in all I was happy. I have a few logs waiting for me, cherry being one of them, but I have been ill and don't know when I will be able to get to them. I have a Jonsered 920 that I use on my mill. Enjoy!

 

[bookerdog]

No drilling required

Like everyone else says just clamps on. You can be up and milling in no time.

 

[flht01]

If your planning on getting as close to a full 36" cut as possible you'll need to buy a 42" bar. You loose between 6 and 8" of the bar length after it's clamped in the mill. Also, you might want to consider the aux oiler if your going to mill a lot of really wide oak. If you do decide to use an aux oiler you will have to drill the bar but it can still be used for crosscutting. do a search for several good threads on aux oilers.

Also, check the archives for the thread on building a good set of guide bars, they make all the difference on your finished product.

I've had good luck with the ripping chain Bailey's sells, you'll need 3 or 4 loops to get started.

Good luck and happy millin

 

[smithie55]

Mr_Brushcutter,
I thought I would post a picture of Granbergs Alaskan MKIII mill (on the ground)and their Mini-mill.
Both types clamp on to the bar.
The combo works really good.

Happy millin

 

[bookerdog]

Nice

nice set up smitty

 

[woodshop]

Mr_Brushcutter,
I thought I would post a picture of Granbergs Alaskan MKIII mill (on the ground)and their Mini-mill.
Both types clamp on to the bar.
The combo works really good.

btw, was in a Harbor Freight walk-in store the other day and saw they had a Chinese knockoff (was it?) of the Mini-mill... think it was less than $20. Did not bite, but wondered if it was indeed the actual Mini-mill. HK does sell the genuine MKIII on their website for a little less than others, they just don't (can't) mention the Granberg name in the add. I got my MKIII from HF that way, paid $149 plus shipping few years ago for the 36". It came in Granberg packaging, looks exactly like my Dad's who got his right from Granberg, has their logo on it, same instruction sheet etc.

 

[hautions11]

Knock Off

I have a $25 Beam Machine. Similar to Granberg. It does fine for squaring off a log. I still use the Alaskan for the initial cut, then I have a nice flat to mount my 2 X 4 to cut the sides. Let me find and old pic to post. .

The quality of the cut is VERY operator dependant. I found it usefull for cutting cants, but the surface finish was very rough. I bought it because it was cheap and actually a good accent to the Alaskan. In a pinch I would use it for rough beams, but dimensional lumber is tough. I now go in to the woods with my 064 on the Beam Machine and 084 on the Alsakan.

 

[Trever]

Beam Machine

I was looking on the site for information on the beam machine. I am getting one for Christmas and I am looking forward to using it soon. It seems you like yours pretty good. Do you have any advice for this novice on setup, etc? Thank you and God bless.

Trever
Stihl 024AV
Stihl 075AV
Beam Machine

 

[oldsaw]

I've milled a few hundred board feet with an Alaskan 36". Yes, you will want the 42" bar, you will be amazed at how many big logs you come across after you get your mill. 24" sounds so reasonable until you get into it. And you will want the 42" bar.

I've had mine for about 4 years now and love it. Started out with an 066, but my buddy Lester has found so many 36" plus logs that I upgraded to a 3120. The 660 will be fine for most people, I just wanted more power and found a deal I couldn't refuse from a guy who is a complete "stand up" kind of guy on this site (Chopwood). More power is definitely a good thing, but the 066 would have worked fine on my normal fare. Lester just keeps finding the big ones, and I'm the guy to make them manageable.

Go out and find some logs, cut some lumber, and take pictures while you are at it. We like pictures...I'm personally just really bad at taking them myself. That's why I have to guilt others into doing it. There are a lot of chainsaw mill guys on here who can help you out. Just ask if you have a question, they will get you an answer.

Mark

 

[woodshop]

If you take the dogs off the saw, you can get up to a 31 inch width on a 36 inch alaskan with a 36 inch bar. I find I rarely need more than that. Maybe where you are though, you do. Keep in mind that with 31 inches of cut, you can easily take care of a 48 inch tree. Slab one side, turn, slab next etc... that way you whittle it down to say 30 inch cant that you can then quarter if you want, or even slice slabs that wide. The MK III only can go about 14 inches deep, so you can't really slice more than a 28" log exactly in half right from the get go anyway. Slabbing off the sides is usually how many of us start the process on the larger trees.

 

[MikeInParadise]

you will be amazed at how many big logs you come across after you get your mill. 24" sounds so reasonable until you get into it. And you will want the 42" bar.

Only in my dreams do I see any big trees :greenchainsaw:

 

[oldsaw]

Only in my dreams do I see any big trees :greenchainsaw:

That's what you get for being a "tundra boy". My buddy Lester finds the big ones somehow. My usual tree is 16-20".

Mark