Good axes that won't break the bank?

[Hddnis]

I had "heard" that also but never did find out for sure, that’s why I said I could be wrong. Getting harder and harder to find anything made in this country anymore...... but I'd like to personally say thanks for trying.

Yes I believe Council is still made here.

That is why I started checking it out.

I do try. There are times I've needed a tool and the only stuff I can find is made in china and so I bought them.
I always feel like I should confess and make some sort of offering at church.:hmm3grin2orange:

I figure I can buy a $27.00 made in china axe or I can buy a $60.00 Made in USA axe. I know for a fact that the chinese made one will not hold up as I have broken one (head split on one side of the handle eye) and none will hold a decent edge. The US made axe on the other hand I would expect to last a long time and work very hard. I've got a double bit axe that my dad used, made in USA, I've put a new handle on it and it is still going strong. That is the kind of tool I want.



Mr. HE

 

[Paul Bunion]

Snow & Nealley axes are still made in Bangor, Maine.
A nicely made and finished tool. They come with lifetime warrantee.

http://www.snowandnealley.com/

 

[Slamm]

Wow, you guys put a lot of thought in this, LOL. I would just get the 3 different sizes of the Fiskars for under $100 for all of them. Most everyone loves them, lifetime warranty and they are sold in many different places.

They are high quality and that is what you want to support.

My opinion,

Sam

 

[AT sawyer]

Ebay axes

Here's two of what you're looking for courtesy of Ebay. I only buy for the heads and rehandle them myself. I usually ask the seller to cut the handle off when I buy them as most handles are in poor condition, poorly hung, and add to the shipping cost. I have not used a Fiskars, but am not a fan of plastic handles.

Most heads will have some mushrooming on the poll from hard use, but as long as the eye is sound, you can grind that off. Just don't grind the blade unless you're real careful. File or belt sander works best.

 

[madhatte]

I've got a 2# Collins, a 2# True Temper, and a 4# True Temper. I have re-handled them all, and they are all excellent axes. The 4-pounder is my favorite -- I put a 28" handle on it, so it's both handy and effective for pounding wedges. I don't care at all for plastic handles. Hickory is the ONLY way to go.

 

[Erick]

Man I'm with you guys on the comfort factor of a wood handle, I'm a purist at heart.... "aint nothing like a good piece of Hickory".


But I tell ya, what the Fiskars lacks in "feel appeal" it makes up for in quality and performance.

 

[southbound]

helko Vario - 2000

Nuff said.................

 

[diesel&coffee]

helko Vario - 2000

Nuff said.................

Sorry - been there - have that - have never picked it up since I got my fiskars ! Plus the "powdered alum" peutor? cap & screw retainer system on the Helko broke the first weekend.. I know they say don't strike it. But try not to week after week of use... Fat change. After that I wraped the lower over strike area with cut rubber hose and duck tape..

I was/may make a real CNC alum over srike and retainer cap that will not break like powdered alum..

But as stated I love my fiskars.. Go spend the money for both splitting axes and then tell me which one works better!

:monkey:

:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[southbound]

Sorry - been there - have that - have never picked it up since I got my fiskars ! Plus the "powdered alum" peutor? cap & screw retainer system on the Helko broke the first weekend.. I know they say don't strike it. But try not to week after week of use... Fat change. After that I wraped the lower over strike area with cut rubber hose and duck tape..

I was/may make a real CNC alum over srike and retainer cap that will not break like powdered alum..

But as stated I love my fiskars.. Go spend the money for both splitting axes and then tell me which one works better!

:monkey:

:hmm3grin2orange:

Sorry should have mentioned I have the Fiskars as well... I did like it better at first but after getting my technique down with the 2300 the fiskars now just hangs on the wall...Seems to just get stuck..I spend more time trying to remove it from the round...With the 2300 it does not get stuck...


A side by side...

 

[Erick]

Snow & Nealley axes are still made in Bangor, Maine.
A nicely made and finished tool. They come with lifetime warrantee.

http://www.snowandnealley.com/

I see nothing that says they are still "made in the USA"

"crafted in the Maine tradition" doesn't mean squat and that kind of wishy washy language would lead me to believe thay are probably "crafted in the Maine tradition" in china or some other 'nese country by a twelve year old girl who couldn't pick out Maine on a map much less know anything about "crafting" an axe other than "ax vedy hot when break out of sand.

 

[ticat928]

Do not buy to cheap

Used this Axe for 1/4 chord blade snapped (still buried in wood)

 

[Scrapiron]

Here's two of what you're looking for courtesy of Ebay. I only buy for the heads and rehandle them myself. I usually ask the seller to cut the handle off when I buy them as most handles are in poor condition, poorly hung, and add to the shipping cost. I have not used a Fiskars, but am not a fan of plastic handles.

Most heads will have some mushrooming on the poll from hard use, but as long as the eye is sound, you can grind that off. Just don't grind the blade unless you're real careful. File or belt sander works best.

Where did you find the smaller axe handle? That's just what I'm looking for. Is it 28"?

Thanks-
Scrap

 

[AT sawyer]

I got the small handle at Sears. Axes this size are often referred to as a "boy's axe" and have a 2 1/2lb head. The larger one is a Jersey pattern and has a shaved down octagonal handle which gives it a nice feel. Both are True Temper.

 

[Scrapiron]

Ahhh.. I see it now. Yeah, the one axe head I have is a 3lb one... too big for the "boy's axe". But on a regular handle, it's just a wee bit too small.

thanks-