Grease gun?

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Why the bar oil does it all for you I have some still bars which do not have a grease hole and I have six tsumura Bars been using those for over 8-years never greased one yet waste of money .
The last bars I wore out where GB titanium bars and I wore out the sprocket teeth before the bearings I never greased them neither
 
I grease mine!!
Maybe just for piece of mind, but I can certainly tell a difference in loudness of chain "whirr", and how long it spins around the bar after releasing the throttle.
They get hot milling or in long cuts, much hotter than the rest of the bar & chain when ungreased- according to an IR thermo.
 
If you are a greaser, another option is to use a spray can of motorcycle chain lub. The nozzle tube fits the bar hole and you can use the lub for a lot of other things like car door hinges and garage door track wheels, etc. It's a good lube as it comes out as a thin oil and changes to a good grease when the solvent is gone.
 
I just use the oil can with 90W or the assembly lube bottle.

Only time I ever do it is when I am breaking down a saw for cleaning, figure if it has an oil port it collects crap in it. So I give it oil.

Does it need it? No idea. Does it make a difference? No idea. Does it cost me anything? No.
 
Actually, I usually smear some grease on the clutch bearing if I pull the clutch, just for giggles. But saws run countless hours before there's any reason to pull the clutch.
 
I guess none of you grease your clutch bearing either.
If I have the clutch off or if it's been a long time then I'll inspect the clutch bearings and grease them.

However, some of the new factory bars don't even have grease ports. I've read that Oregon and some saw manufacturers now believe that tip greasing can actually shorten nose sprocket life because it pushes dirt and debris into the bearings when you grease the hole. As a result, some manufacturers now think the smartest approach is a sealed tip or greasing the bar when it's new before the first use, but then leaving it alone.
 
If I have the clutch off or if it's been a long time then I'll inspect the clutch bearings and grease them.

However, some of the new factory bars don't even have grease ports. I've read that Oregon and some saw manufacturers now believe that tip greasing can actually shorten nose sprocket life because it pushes dirt and debris into the bearings when you grease the hole. As a result, some manufacturers now think the smartest approach is a sealed tip or greasing the bar when it's new before the first use, but then leaving it alone.
Do the work when the time opportunities itself!

Anyway, regarding bars...
It is subjective to when and where you use them.

The crux is that not all of us live in Phoenix or Seattle! In a dry area greasing or oiling will pull in stuff, in Seattle greasing or oiling pushes out water!

Manufacturers going one way or another is because they are serving themselves instead of offering what different areas need and tagging them that way.

In a large part because humans tend to be silly sometimes; they hear something is the best thing since sliced bread but do not take into account where it is used.

I guess that is rant off?
 
It is your gear- you own it, you choose if you want to use grease or not.
If you do and there is a hole in the bar tip to facilitate it, the grease gun you linked will work just fine and if you own a Husqvarna with a hole in the middle of the crank on the PTO side, you can use the same gun to squirt a bit of grease in there as well from time to time- the exit for that hole is against the interior of the clutch needle bearing.
 
I guess none of you grease your clutch bearing either.
nope not in more than 20 years anyway it only works when the saw is idling and if you grease it , within less than half a tank all that Grease is then in the clutch drum making it easier for the clutch to slip.
 
nope not in more than 20 years anyway it only works when the saw is idling and if you grease it , within less than half a tank all that Grease is then in the clutch drum making it easier for the clutch to slip.
Negative.
 
grease my clutch bearing once a year, never greased a bar tip.. only person i ever seen grease a bar, was my old yuppie naibors
 
I will be needing a chainsaw grease gun for the nose sprocket on my new bar. I see Oregon offers a couple options but was looking close at this:

https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/premium-steel-grease-gun/p/110534
Is this a good option, or are there better ones out there? Thanks!
I grease mine, always have. Not every use, but usually every bar turn and clean. It won't hurt. As far as grease guns, I wouldn't get one that reuires buying a proprietary tube of grease. I'd get one that I could take a paint stick full of bearing grease and paddle it into the reservoir.

Yeah, I grease my clutch drum bearing if I'm in there too, but I don't make a special effort to do so. Honestly, I forget it's there.
 
I grease mine, always have. Not every use, but usually every bar turn and clean. It won't hurt. As far as grease guns, I wouldn't get one that reuires buying a proprietary tube of grease. I'd get one that I could take a paint stick full of bearing grease and paddle it into the reservoir.

Yeah, I grease my clutch drum bearing if I'm in there too, but I don't make a special effort to do so. Honestly, I forget it's there.
I follow Bret4207‘s grease protocol. But for a grease “gun”, I use a simple gun such as this one from Oregon ( https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/oregon-guide-bar-grease-gun/p/26365 ). Greasing a sprocket and drum bearing doesn‘t use a lot of grease. I’ve got a more expensive grease gun, but find I just reach for the simple gun 99% of the time.
 
I’ve heard if you start greasing, keep doing it, as the grease forms a dam around the outer part and bar lube can’t get in after that. Makes sense.

I figure pushing dirt in is worse than oil coming out. Sort of like the opposing camps on zerks or not on U Joints and ball joints.

I have a metal bar tip grease gun you can have for the cost of shipping. Although shipping might be as much as the gun bought locally.
 
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