Grundfos Pump Install

[Lurch16th]

Now that i have finished the plumbing and wiring on my Heatmor, filled it with water and trying to find out if i have to bleed the pump too and how,,, I downloaded the Grundfos manual and it looks like i can't have my pump installed in it's current position.

View attachment 93202

View attachment 93203

Will this work?

 

[ericjeeper]

Nope.

 

[Jkebxjunke]

take pump out... turn flanges 1/4 turn tighter... then bolt pump back in.
I am planing on putting my pumps in with regular cord and plug pig tails instead of direct wiring.

 

[Lurch16th]

View attachment 93218

How's this?

It's the only position to keep it at the system low-point without having to move it to the opposite side of the chimney enclosure. But as you can see, there will be no way to get the access panel open once it's online, 2" from the floor. I can reach the speed control which is really all i need until it's time to replace it.

Forgot to ask, does the pump have to be bled and if so, how?

Can find all kinds of tech info on Grundfos site, but nothing about bleeding the air.

Does the silver screw have anything to do with it?


thanks for the tip Trimmed.

 

[trimmmed]

I would get a piece of rubber or ice/snow shield to put behind those galv pipe brackets. They will rot out the copper one day.

 

[Lurch16th]

Forgot to ask, does the pump have to be bled and if so, how?

Can find all kinds of tech info on Grundfos site, but nothing about bleeding the air.

Does the silver screw have anything to do with it?

 

[John D]

I have tees in my plumbing,and a garden hose shutoff,I throw a garden hose on it with a double female adapter,and the other end on my water supply,I open the valve,and push water thru the circ,and out to the owb,pushing out any air,then shut off the water,then you should be ready to run the circ with no further bleeding. If you have no bleeders,loosen the inlet flange on the circ until it weeps water only,letting the trapped air out,then tighten and run circ.

 

[Lurch16th]

I have several tee and hose valves tooand pretty much did the same thing. Did find out that the large silver slotted screw in the top of the pump is for bleeding. Just lossened it up let it drip and close. I'll let pump run til tomorrow, then hope to ligth 'er up.

 

[brewchief]

If you want the wiring cover up you can remove the 4 allen screws and rotate the motor on the casting, I do it all the time.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

1. Install shutoffs/drains on EACH side of the pump for isolation...you'll be glad you did. Taco, Webstone make nice ones...is that a new ECO/var. speed Grundfos? looks like a B&G body, Taco flanges
2. I have a water line tied directly to the OWB, with tha aforementioned fittings and a washing machine (double-female) hose, bleeding is a snap.

 

[Lurch16th]

Yeah, valves and drains on both sides. My pump is a UPS 2699FC, with lever controlled 3-speed motor.

I ran it all night at highest speed and runs cool as a cucumber.

But I forget how a circ pump and full line should sound like.

I hear the motor hum and a light continuous swishing sound, like when you turn on a garden hose.

Is that as good as it gets or should you not be able to tell water is being circulated, only hearing the hum?

Don't know how there could be any air left in there. Pump is at the rock bottom of the whole system.


When up and running, what speed is best to operate at?

 

[John D]

Yeah, valves and drains on both sides. My pump is a UPS 2699FC, with lever controlled 3-speed motor.

I ran it all night at highest speed and runs cool as a cucumber.



When up and running, what speed is best to operate at?

I have the same circ,Im running it on the middle setting now.Ive run it on low,and medium,not much difference in heat transfer.In my case,mine is on the indoor boiler loop,no need to run it on high.The only reason i dont leave it on low is in case the power goes out here,which is common,the manual says it may not start on low,I dont want to take that chance.

 

[Lurch16th]

Well, it ran cool until I took some extra steps to bleed air today and like an old geezer, forgot to open 2 valves while the pump was running. Needless to say it was very hot. So i flushed some cold water through it to cool it down a bit. This time made sure all necessary valves were open and turned it on.
Then lit the fire.
Since it's very warm out today the blower for the Heat-X only kicks on occasionally. At this time, the pump is almost hot enough to burn me. I have 2 temp guages inside, 1 where supply meets the copper coming into the pump and the other where the return meets the copper before it goes out.

When incoming was about 145 deg, outgoing was about 165 deg. Identical guages. Is that possible?

Or, is my pump burning up and heating the water that much on the way in?

The side arm is bypassed for now.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Careful with those valves Lurch!....Ask me how I know....A pump will blow up in a situation like that...do you have an IR digital thermometer? You can check your gauges like that, just put a spot of black paint on the copper pipe, the IR gets reflected by the bare copper. My gauges on my CB supply/return lines were spot on in the beginning, now about 5 deg. difference. Accuracy on those is not that great unless you spring $100 each for some industrial-grade thermometers.

 

[Lurch16th]

I think i can get my hands on one of those IR guages. Mine were $15.00 ea, not exactly top of the line, but they also come with pressure reading.

Anyway, pump seems ok. Still gotta get a good bed of coals going. The fire must have died out with the wood still inside during the night or just plain burned it all up.

But water inside temps were 80 deg on guages, barely warm, but so was pump. So i guess hot water going through the pump = hot pump, and probably normal.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Yah...as long as you don't hear air in there...sounds like rattling/grinding glass, or gurgling.