Hand-Sharpening a Milling Chain

[secureland]

Hi all,

I am considering squaring off some scotch pine logs on two sides for a treehouse I'm building.

Can I sharpen the chain by hand? Any pointers?

If not, where can I get a chain for a 20" .050 bar with 72 drivelinks?


Thanks for any replys!

 

[excess650]

You can cut with your existing chain. I milled a hemlock blowdown into s 10.5" x 10.5" x9'9" beam/cant with a 72LGX chain, and was surprised at how smooth the finish was.

Your existing chain can be modified to milling chain by changing the angles on the tops of the cutters from 30-35* to 0-10*. I've read that some milling chain removes the top of the cutters on every other pair so as to create scoring cutters, and then dropping the rakers to .035-.040".

If you just want to buy milling chain, get it from Bailey's who is a sponsor here. Cost is about $0.20 per link

 

[woodshop]

When I'm using the chain saw mill and my 36" bar I use standard round chisel skip chain, like Oregon 75JG. It won't leave as smooth a surface as milling chain will, but having used both, I think it cuts a little faster. A few passes through the planer and all is well anyway. In your case, with a smaller bar and only .050 gauge, you want something like Oregon 72 LG.

 

[Nikko]

For the small amount you're using and if you're willing to put up with a bit of a rougher surface, just use your regular chain (make sure it's sharp). Cut at 45* instead of straight across the grain and you'll make more noodles than dust and the cut will be a bit better.

If you're freehanding this, the hardest part of this will be keeping the bar vertical and the cuts parallel. I'd start by elevating the log onto a 2x6 (or ??) so you don't have to worry about burying the bar tip in the lawn.

Might want to practice a bit before you hit the good stuff.

Good luck!
Nikko

 

[secureland]

Thanks for the replys!

Will I see significant improvement if I file back to 0-10 degrees? I'm proficcient at filing by hand the standard 30 degrees. Is it a good idea to knock off every other raker?




Thanks for any replys!

 

[guitarborist]

Do not knock off any rakers. If you are proficient at filing the standard profile then stay with that unless you are getting into milling lots of lumber. Make sure the rakers are adjusted properly with a raker gage, your cut will be straighter.

 

[Mad Professor]

Keep all the rakers and all the cutters EXACTLY the same. I file the cutters to 10 degrees and use a Pfred file system MOST of the time to take down both when sharpening.

Hit "short" cutters with less than the same # of strokes than longer ones so they even up through the life of the chain.

I've milled very smooth boards with a chain that was about to start breaking cutters from wear/sharpening.

 

[secureland]

Hello Again!

Let's take it a step further with another question

What is the best way for me to put to 2 square sides on a log that make it a nice even thickness beam? Is there an easy/cheap way or do I need to get into big mills?



Thanks for any replys!

 

[dustytools]

Hello Again!

Let's take it a step further with another question

What is the best way for me to put to 2 square sides on a log that make it a nice even thickness beam? Is there an easy/cheap way or do I need to get into big mills?



Thanks for any replys!

Go to the Baileys site and check out the Granberg Mini-Mill. It will edge both sides of your log after you make your first cut, best part is that you dont have to roll the log.http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46555&catID=196

 

[secureland]

Go to the Baileys site and check out the Granberg Mini-Mill. It will edge both sides of your log after you make your first cut, best part is that you dont have to roll the log.http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46555&catID=196

Hi,

It is really important that both sides are parallel(sp?). I need good posts and beams for construction.

Is this a solid unit that I will be able to rely on to make cuts parallel to one another?

Thanks for any replys!

 

[excess650]

Hello Again!

Let's take it a step further with another question

What is the best way for me to put to 2 square sides on a log that make it a nice even thickness beam? Is there an easy/cheap way or do I need to get into big mills?

Thanks for any replys!

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46776&catID=

will almost guarantee parallel sides unless you do something wrong

The "small mill" doesn't hold the end of the bar captive, so can't be as accurate. The mini mill and similar concept clamp-ons can only be as accurate as the guide rail, and the operator's technique. These must have some play to allow the bar to pivot(other than the mini mill) and clearance to allow the device to slide along the guide without binding. Unless you want to run your milled pieces through a planer to ensure parallel, I say go Alaskan!

 

[dustytools]

Hi,

It is really important that both sides are parallel(sp?). I need good posts and beams for construction.

Is this a solid unit that I will be able to rely on to make cuts parallel to one another?

Thanks for any replys!

As long as you keep the guide parallel to the first cut you will be fine. I always take off the top of the log with the larger Alaskan so that I have a good flat surface to mount the guide to. After you cut the first side of the log off simply measure the desired distance to the other side of the log, remount the guide and cut away.