Harbor Freight sharpener

[powerking]

How good is a sharpener from HarborFreight? I see they hae them for $40. I'm a firm believer in "You get what you pay for". Just wondering if anyone else has seen them..Its item # 93213
Rich

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

How good is a sharpener from HarborFreight? I see they hae them for $40. I'm a firm believer in "You get what you pay for". Just wondering if anyone else has seen them..Its item # 93213
Rich

I have one. Paid $30. It's crap.


If you are VERY careful you can get it to not wreck your chain, and deliver a decent edge.

I found it's faster and BETTER to hand sharpen. The HF sharpener finally drove me to learning to hand sharpen.

I do cheat, though. I use the Pferd guide. Very nice.

Now I only use the electric sharpener when a chain is very far gone, like if I've hit a rock.

 

[nate cutter]

same as Blue only use it on rocked out chain then have to hand file for truly sharp chain also works as a depth gauge regulator when angled at 0 deg. if you are going to use it as primary sharpening tool then I would step up to a better model.

 

[gemniii]

search for the NT grinder, often available for $90.

 

[J.W Younger]

How good is a sharpener from HarborFreight? I see they hae them for $40. I'm a firm believer in "You get what you pay for". Just wondering if anyone else has seen them..Its item # 93213
Rich

IMO the 40 bucks would be better spent on files but some say they work ok.The one I have was given to me and is only used for damaged chain with rocked and missing cutters.Its not accurate side to side and no faster than hand filing,slower if you set up and try to keep the cutters consistant.I'm sure with a better wheel and some modification it could be improved.

 

[wigglesworth]

search for the NT grinder, often available for $90.

I have a NT grinder, and all in all im not too impressed. The arbor is drilled off center a bit, causing a wobbling wheel, not bad, but enough to tick me off. Also I had to extensively modify the chain vise to make it hold its position. Every time you advanced the chain, it would move ever so slightly. Again, not hard to modify, but really shouldn't have to. But I agree with the majority, that it is light years ahead of the HT grinder, and will put out a good sharp chain.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Well, since somebody PM'd me about the HF grinder, I guess I'd better give some more detail.

1. The plastic body is flimsy, and flexes a lot. Makes it VERY hard to keep a consistent angle AND depth from cutter to cutter. You can change the depth of a grind by just using varying pressure on the handle. Who can keep the exact same pressure every time?
2. The chain holder and indexer, same story. Flimsy; things change from one cutter to the next.
3. Forget, I mean FORGET using the molded-in markings to set your angle. One side is different from the other, and they both lie.

So, a very careful touch, and lots of re-checking, and you can get a sharp chain.

I wouldn't buy one again, knowing what I know now.

 

[gemniii]

I have a NT grinder, and all in all im not too impressed. The arbor is drilled off center a bit, causing a wobbling wheel, not bad, but enough to tick me off. Also I had to extensively modify the chain vise to make it hold its position. Every time you advanced the chain, it would move ever so slightly. Again, not hard to modify, but really shouldn't have to. But I agree with the majority, that it is light years ahead of the HT grinder, and will put out a good sharp chain.

Seems to be dependent on the actual individual grinder.
On mine the wheel is true and the vise holds well. I'd like a different cam setup for the clamp.

My biggest mod was to combine the grinder, spinner, and breaker on 1 board for mobility. And add a swing-arm Fluorescent Magnifier Lamp so I can see the detail EASILY.
I'd suggest some sort of clamp on magnifier for any bench mount grinder.

As seen in this thread about a $50 TSC grinder.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=149059&highlight=underwear

 

[redoakneck]

I have a HF sharpener and it does okay if you are really careful and light handed. Paid for itself by fixing some really bad chains.

Would still hand file 2-3 times in between using the HF.
I have a steady hand and with magnification you can get a chain sharp with it. I am waiting for it to break because it is plastic. It is slow because you have to really position each link carefully before you touch it with the grinder.


Just my .02

 

[sawkiller]

I have become quite efficient with mine. BUT you have to develop a certain method to be successful with one and it requires some tinkering and accurizing. Also when you swap to grind the other side you have to Mic the cutters and adjust accordigly for proper length.

I rarely use it anymore unless I rock a chain or hit a fence. I did have to use it once at the start of the year when I found a splitting wedge in a piece of firewood someone gave me. That sure was a hard piece to noodle LOL!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Rebuilt The HF Grinder

I was able to rebuild the cheap Harbor Freight grinder and can now use it to handle the rakers (depth gauges). I use the 511a to sharpen the cutters and the little HF monster to take down the rakers. It seems to work well enough for that. So, that's one less wheel change and depth adjustment per chain on the 511a.

The original owner of the HF machine got so frustrated trying to use it that he gave it to me. The first piece I rebuilt on the HF machine was the back stop--the flimsiest piece I have ever seen. I drilled a new hole in the plastic swivel and used a 1/2" angle iron with a machine screw and bushing holding it. That replaced the stop and seems to work much better.

I also fixed the chain pinch that was not working by grinding down the separators that were holding the tracks too far apart. Then I mounted the machine onto a hardwood shelf and support that I built so I can clamp it the vise on the end of my bench.

My only squawk now is that I can't find a flat 3/16" grinding wheel that would likely work better for grinding down rakers than an 1/8" contoured wheel. It appears this little machine might have enough power and just enough housing clearance to handle a 3/16" wheel, but I'm not sure. Anyone know?

 

[gsd2053]

I use the harbor freight electric sharpener. After I set it up for the chain I am sharpening. It puts a perfect factory angle edge on the chain. Very sharp.

 

[heavyiron]

Like most of the others on here, I don't pretend the thing is a precision tool. I'll use it after I ground my chain or get into some metal. It's good enough for getting the teeth the same size after a few filings - I did purchase it along with a pair of calipers at the same time... It'll never replace hand filing for me but it was not supposed to.

 

[madhatte]

I'm another NT/HF hybrid user. The NT grinder I have modified to where it's pretty usable, and the HF us for rakers only. Generally I freehand file for regular maintenance; the grinders are only for fixing damaged chains. Both grinders are bolted to 2x4's and chucked up in a vise during use. That saves some bench space.

 

[mga]

i was watching some guy cut up some logs and he was throwing some huge chips. i asked him what type of chain he had on there and he said he didn't know.

when i mentioned the chips, he said he sharpens his chains with a HF sharpener and he swears by it. said he is now doing chains for all his friends and neighbors.

maybe the newer models have been improved?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Sanme Sharpeners as Before

...maybe the newer models have been improved?

Nope, they're the same as they were five years ago when they wanted a higher price for them. You get what you pay for.

 

[gemniii]

I forgot to mention I also had a problem with the NT grinder not tightening down on the chain enough. I put several layers of duct tape on the cam to enlarge it. Works great. A 5 minute 5 cent solution.

 

[TermiteBuffet]

I got one it isn't the greatest but i only use it when i try cutting rocks and metal . I just take my time and don't get in a rush , it seems to get the angles back pretty well .

 

[olyman]

I was able to rebuild the cheap Harbor Freight grinder and can now use it to handle the rakers (depth gauges). I use the 511a to sharpen the cutters and the little HF monster to take down the rakers. It seems to work well enough for that. So, that's one less wheel change and depth adjustment per chain on the 511a.

The original owner of the HF machine got so frustrated trying to use it that he gave it to me. The first piece I rebuilt on the HF machine was the back stop--the flimsiest piece I have ever seen. I drilled a new hole in the plastic swivel and used a 1/2" angle iron with a machine screw and bushing holding it. That replaced the stop and seems to work much better.

I also fixed the chain pinch that was not working by grinding down the separators that were holding the tracks too far apart. Then I mounted the machine onto a hardwood shelf and support that I built so I can clamp it the vise on the end of my bench.

My only squawk now is that I can't find a flat 3/16" grinding wheel that would likely work better for grinding down rakers than an 1/8" contoured wheel. It appears this little machine might have enough power and just enough housing clearance to handle a 3/16" wheel, but I'm not sure. Anyone know?

both of them i got,,came with all three wheels!! i keep wondering--if the bit later ones,,werent made a bit better,,cause other than the original thread on them,,i bought the shims,,and it corrected all the bad stuff!! the stop piece,,meh,,mine works fine

 

[shaker223]

I bought one and tried it...I got it for $19.99 NEW sale price.

Did a short write up for one of my old bosses.

Is it cheap...yes
Is it flimsy....yes
Is it underpowered...yes
Does it have repeatability....kinda***
Does it sharpen a chain..... Yes***


***This sharpener did a nice job on the dull chain I had for my small poulan homeowner saw. Once I figured out the quirks of the unit and where its weak spots were, I was able to sharpen saw teeth with good results. I was able to sharpen a chain in 10 minutes once I figured where the units issues were. Repeatability took a little practice and watching how the wheel intercepted the saw tooth before I ground it helped. I might be able to sharpen a chain in 5-7minutes once I was good with the unit. I had a couple of old dry pieces of 10" maple at the house here and the chain cut like new.

I would recommed this to the occasional user who is mechaniclly inclined. If I was cutting a lot of wood or if my day job depended on it, I'd buy a good heavy duty unit.