Hard to rotate chain on Husky

[Joer189]

I have owned and heavily used a Husqrvarna 345 chainsaw for about 5 years now. A while back the chain started to be difficult to rotate on the bar and makes a “ratcheting/clanking” type noise with passive rotation. Lately with use the chain locks up and partially comes off the drive sprocket. When you look at is from the bottom it seems the chain is out of alignment. By that I mean the chain seems to be pulled toward the middle of the saw by the sprocket cover. Chain rotation with the sprocket cover off is OK, but when the sprocket cover is on and snugged up, the problem occurs when you begin to tension the chain a bit. Even running the saw with a very loose chain (which is new as well as the bar) causes clanking and such. I did notice my old bar was bent inward at the saw/sprocket end when I changed it and am wondering if that caused the chain to ride inside excessively and wear the inner sprocket, so now even with a new bar, the chain rides inside?

Do I need a new sprocket, sprocket cover, or something else? I was hoping someone would know since I don’t want to just throw parts at is. Thanks in advance.

Joe

 

[GASoline71]

Did you check the chain brake?

Gary

 

[blsnelling]

Sounds like a badly worn sprocket.

 

[HiOctane]

Worn sprocket or sometimes it happens that"teeth" unwelded from the drum itself.

 

[jeeptj19992001]

one word "maintenance"

 

[SawTroll]

Sounds like a badly worn sprocket.

Yes, and make the replacement a rim and drum one - replacement rims are cheap, and the rim will aligne it self with the chain.

 

[GASoline71]

Or the needle bearing and cage are shot that the sprocket runs on...

Which prolly means the sprocket is shot too...

Gary

 

[Joer189]

Thanks

THANKS to all! Very helpful!
I suspected the sproket but was not sure as it looks OK to me, but of course I dont know what to look for either, I will in the future though. I think I'll oprder the sproket, rim and bearing to be sure, the bearing is only four bucks and I assume its easy to replace once I get the sproket off? Anything else anyojne would reccomend as long as I'm in there? I'm pretty good with small engines in general but obviously not so much wiht the actual chainsaw mechanism, but that will soon change as the best way to learn is by doing.
Thanks again

Joe

 

[mini14]

if the chain has sliped off the bar while cutting the part of the chain that rides in the bar will get nicked up by the sprocket and will not spin freely in the future, take a file and file the bumps down on the chain.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Most likely a sprocket but,

While you're down that far remove the bar and place it on a good flat surface. Check to be sure it's flat not bent or twisted. If it is, replace as well.

Good Luck and Take Care

 

[Joer189]

Bar and chain are new, thats the first thing I thought of, but thanks, this site is a great thing.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Did you get the "right" bar & chain; if you try to run a .325 chain on a 3/8 drive sprocket (or vise-versa) you will get the binding and the clanking. Just because the bar is the same size (length) there are other things to look at like the pitch & number of drive links. The good news is, if you are going to replace the sprocket & bearing anyway, just make sure you get the right rim sprocket to match your bar/chain combo.

 

[rms61moparman]

:agree2:

Been there, Done that, It sux

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Bar and chain are new, thats the first thing I thought of, but thanks, this site is a great thing.

Is it fixed yet?

 

[Fish]

Sounds like the chain/brake is engaged, and you are very determined.
Getting one "unsprung" can be a challenge. Post some pics, we can
help....

 

[Joer189]

Yes its a .325, but thanks for the tip!

 

[Joer189]

Good call

I am going to be more dilligent about maintainance, even cracked open the manual and intend to follow all! One question though, how does one grease the bearings without removing the clutch, flywheel, and sproket each time? Or do you just have to? I used an oil can on my other saw (Husky 261)
and oiled it up but oil is not grease of course.

And if you must remove it, any idea on how to do that on a 261? My 345 was easy, lock up cylinder, used surgical tubing, then hit with scrwedriver in direction of "off". Idiot proof,great thing for me.

The 261 assembly is different and has a nut. Do you just lock up the cuylinder and turn the nut CLOCKWISE to loosen it?
Thanks