Have I been tuning saws wrong

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I always sniff these and the 372 threads out for some reason..lol . ..Sometimes I post sometimes not.
Hey man...I never left north Island, I'm still in McNeil. it's been stormy and rain everyday. The power from Woss north has been out all day, Transmission line broke and it was to windy to fly the line to find the break. Yeah just came back on. I'm pulling the pin and going North for the winter, come back in the spring. Going off to do my level 3 and then should be freeze up by them. Seen enough rain for a while.
So how's things? You doing anymore cutting for the coast season?

yup, healing from the ribs and then gonna be working closer to home. looks like the home job has a nice 40,000m3 project that started the other day. tired of waiting for ribs to heal. you gonna do some fall&burn? Jason's gonna be doing that with that cull Clint as his supervisor lol
 
Retard?
or just depends?
Srry Jon, I couldn't resist that one.
Of cource I'm talking about the low jet:yes:
and not the method.
Interesting! thanks for sharing.
Guy would have to a bit of experience to do it that way. At the end of the day if the response is there and it's starts right away when warm then it's good to go.
If'n i knew how to fall, me and my properly tuned 385 would eat u'r lunch!
 
Well that sounds like a good gig. I think the work will start early down here next year. nobody will get done, there will be a lot of carry over work for Feb. Hoping to do some Seismic for a bit, then maybe a bit of F&Burn then maybe split out of Canada for a break.
 
was his 288 that took a dump. sounds good man, maybe we'll end up on same crew again next year.
yeah, that would be awesome to do again. Yeah man, we we did cut next to each other. I was running that hot 390 remember lol. OK hot 75's. I figure when it comes to tune, if my hands are happy then it's right. I tune a 2 stroke to 2 stroke.
 
trust me when i say this (most won't) 98% of AS tune wrong lol in every single vid, every single descibed tuning prodedure guys are way way way in the safe zone. not a joke either. their saw so they can run it as they wish. i like usable saws myself.
FWIW, I'm an amateur homeowner on the chainsaw side.

But my main experience in all this tuning business says that if I set the L screw too rich, then the saw won't hot start without having the throttle wide open. It's pretty obvious really... too rich at a hot start with throttle valve closed will flood the plug.

So I have my saws so the L is rich enough to respond nice with a blip of throttle, but still lean enough so as to restart without having to mess around. But I'm still learning too....

Matt
 
FWIW, I'm an amateur homeowner on the chainsaw side.

But my main experience in all this tuning business says that if I set the L screw too rich, then the saw won't hot start without having the throttle wide open. It's pretty obvious really... too rich at a hot start with throttle valve closed will flood the plug.

So I have my saws so the L is rich enough to respond nice with a blip of throttle, but still lean enough so as to restart without having to mess around. But I'm still learning too....

Matt

some models are worse then others. my opinion is for a usable saw the low is about as important as the high but the low has more room for error. for the low i tune it back to a light lean lope and then 1/8 of a turn open. set idle and leave it for the time being. set the high and run saw. next time starting cold i may give it a bit more low sometimes depending on ease of starting and how it runs at idle cold. it's good 95% of the time though. your on the right track :cheers:
 
My 'opinion' on tune depends what a person's activities are. If someone is in the wood all the time like using a specific saw to stump for example, especially a smaller saw for the work then more fuel is great for cooling. More fuel is also more oil. The way I tune my saws at 50/1 will not have the same longevity for that activity. When you are constantly cuting underbrush, saplings and limbing along with falling and bucking timber, now using that saw mentioned above with the heavy fourstroking that's too often without load will not out last saws tuned how I tune for that activity, even at 40/1.
To much fourstroke/random explosion will more than double the case preasure and that's what kills bearings NOT 50/1 or piss review a 2 stroke. May also be other contributing factors that I haven't learnt yet. .. and never will have to. lol
 
some models are worse then others. my opinion is for a usable saw the low is about as important as the high but the low has more room for error. for the low i tune it back to a light lean lope and then 1/8 of a turn open. set idle and leave it for the time being. set the high and run saw. next time starting cold i may give it a bit more low sometimes depending on ease of starting and how it runs at idle cold. it's good 95% of the time though. your on the right track :cheers:
That's where I'm at on the L most of the time. older saws and reed valve saws are different animals.
 
My 'opinion' on tune depends what a person's activities are. If someone is in the wood all the time like using a specific saw to stump for example, especially a smaller saw for the work then more fuel is great for cooling. More fuel is also more oil. The way I tune my saws at 50/1 will not have the same longevity for that activity. When you are constantly cuting underbrush, saplings and limbing along with falling and bucking timber, now using that saw mentioned above with the heavy fourstroking that's too often without load will not out last saws tuned how I tune for that activity, even at 40/1.
To much fourstroke/random explosion will more than double the case preasure and that's what kills bearings NOT 50/1 or piss review a 2 stroke. May also be other contributing factors that I haven't learnt yet. .. and never will have to. lol

Add overly aggressive chain in our hardwoods, that will rattle the bearings out pretty quick. Piss revving + 50:1 can sure enough kill a saw IMHO, ring snag is what I've see. But then again we cut the small hard stuff here, not the big soft stuff.[emoji56]

When you tune a saw with a longer bar you normally end up on the rich side anyway, and not pushing keeps head temps down.
 
FWIW, I'm an amateur homeowner on the chainsaw side.

But my main experience in all this tuning business says that if I set the L screw too rich, then the saw won't hot start without having the throttle wide open. It's pretty obvious really... too rich at a hot start with throttle valve closed will flood the plug.

So I have my saws so the L is rich enough to respond nice with a blip of throttle, but still lean enough so as to restart without having to mess around. But I'm still learning too....

Matt
Sounds like you have the drip Matt?
And always be very careful where you put your tip. lol

Explanations in order:
No that won't flood the saw. If it's very lean on the low then thats tipically when it won't hot start (prime)
This is indicating a few other issues.
"Drip down" I'm talking about a carb needle that is no longer seating when it gets warm (pressured ) maybe a vent issue with certain models. You have a 266 was it?? going on memory here????
 
Add overly aggressive chain in our hardwoods, that will rattle the bearings out pretty quick. Piss revving + 50:1 can sure enough kill a saw IMHO, ring snag is what I've see. But then again we cut the small hard stuff here, not the big soft stuff.[emoji56]

When you tune a saw with a longer bar you normally end up on the rich side anyway, and not pushing keeps head temps down.
Thanks Andy, getting a bit tired but have a good night.

I will be happy to address your post tomorrow. good luck to you all tomorrow night.
 
Sounds like you have the drip Matt?
And always be very careful where you put your tip. lol

Explanations in order:
No that won't flood the saw. If it's very lean on the low then thats tipically when it won't hot start (prime)
This is indicating a few other issues.
"Drip down" I'm talking about a carb needle that is no longer seating when it gets warm (pressured ) maybe a vent issue with certain models. You have a 266 was it?? going on memory here????
Hi WestBoast,

I'll have to think over what you said re. pressurising / venting later on in more detail. No it's my 064 that seems quite sensitive... i.e. I'll the L screw inwards till the lean lope, then back out by like an 1/8. Then sometimes I'll find it harder to hot start, and idle sounds like it bogging on rich... so I just tweek it back in a tad (IDK like a 1/16) and it's all good... smoother idle.. nicer hot start... but there's obv lots of variables here... screwdriver fitting in slot, your ears saying when it;s starting to climb on the lean side etc. etc. I got that 064 at the point where I'm pretty happy wiht it though... :)

Thanks for your tip though...

On the H side, I just keep on turning it in, then giving it a blast on WOT... and I stop that process once it sounds real clean.. perhaps with just a very slight rough note.

If you happy to help I might even upload a recording of it in the wood... and you can telll me if it's ok... or way too rich... :laughing:

but I'm certainly happy with it as of now...
 
trust me when i say this (most won't) 98% of AS tune wrong lol in every single vid, every single descibed tuning prodedure guys are way way way in the safe zone. not a joke either. their saw so they can run it as they wish. i like usable saws myself.
Maybe the bins of dead stihls come from people that don't know how to tune:surprised3:
 

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