Having problems after rebuild, husqvarna 55 rancher

[ndlawrence]

hey guys thanks in advance for any help. Ok so i bought a husqvarna 55 rancher off of flea bay for a project saw and i just put a new cylinder,piston, carb kit and gas line on it and now i cant seem to get it running right. It will crank up and idle for 15-20 secs the it will die out, it will still run at wot but wont idle. Ive tried adjusting the H/L screws to no avail. also whenever i pull the plug out its soaked with gas, i think its running really rich but im out of adjustment. im not sure what to do next, any ideas? Thanks, Nathan

 

[lone wolf]

hey guys thanks in advance for any help. Ok so i bought a husqvarna 55 rancher off of flea bay for a project saw and i just put a new cylinder,piston, carb kit and gas line on it and now i cant seem to get it running right. It will crank up and idle for 15-20 secs the it will die out, it will still run at wot but wont idle. Ive tried adjusting the H/L screws to no avail. also whenever i pull the plug out its soaked with gas, i think its running really rich but im out of adjustment. im not sure what to do next, any ideas? Thanks, Nathan

Needle inlet clogged or level not set maybe?Take the filter off run it and tell me if it spits a real lot of gas back not a little?

 

[ndlawrence]

Needle inlet clogged or level not set maybe?Take the filter off run it and tell me if it spits a real lot of gas back not a little?

I think it could defiantly be the level not set, where can i find the specs on how its where its supposed to be set at? it will probably be tomorrow before i can give it another try, ill check and see about it spitting gas then.
Thanks,
Nathan

 

[lone wolf]

I think it could defiantly be the level not set, where can i find the specs on how its where its supposed to be set at? it will probably be tomorrow before i can give it another try, ill check and see about it spitting gas then.
Thanks,
Nathan

Google the brand carb go to the makers website and look

 

[lfnh]

Just in case, Workshop Manual for 50,51, 55

Clear carb illustrations and repair/setup:
Walbro WSM

hth

 

[272super]

Did you pressure test the saw after the rebuild? The 55 is known for air leaks at the intake boot and impulse seal. You could also have a bad crank seal. The original cylinder and piston were damaged for a reason and an air leak would be a common reason. I don't bother to run a new rebuild until the saw passes a pressure /vac test. Plenty of info on the pressure test in the search function.

 

[lfnh]

OP: just wondering if this is the same 55 as in an earlier thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/171985.htm#post2974036

 

[ndlawrence]

Yes it's the same saw as the earlier thread sorry for the double post I sat the saw down for a few months and forgot I had posted earlier. I havent pressure tested the saw but I replaced all the intake parts. I'll try and pressure test it and post back.
Thanks,
Nathan

 

[lfnh]

Good deal. The Pres/Vac tests will rule out air leaks which could have been the reason for the original piston/cyl getting trashed. No one wants to see that happen again. Crank and intake seals (OEM) are readily available. Just be careful putting crank seaks on as they can get nicked on the shaft and the WS manual covers this.

 

[ndlawrence]

Good deal. The Pres/Vac tests will rule out air leaks which could have been the reason for the original piston/cyl getting trashed. No one wants to see that happen again. Crank and intake seals (OEM) are readily available. Just be careful putting crank seaks on as they can get nicked on the shaft and the WS manual covers this.

I've been doing some looking at the pres/vac test and im not exactly sure how i should do this since my saw doesn't have an impluse line. would it be easier to just replace the seals/gaskets than to do the testing? i remember using rtv gasket maker for the cylinder gasket im thinking it might be leaking there.
Thanks for the help,
Nathan

 

[Mike mandry]

If you used RTV, there is a chance that you plugged up the impulse hole in the cylinder base. That will cause a lot of problems.

 

[ndlawrence]

If you used RTV, there is a chance that you plugged up the impulse hole in the cylinder base. That will cause a lot of problems.

thanks ill just pull it back apart tomorrow and replace it with oem

 

[lfnh]

Like others have said, I just automatically replace the intake boot, impulse grommet, and crank seals just because they have a problematic history. Get an OEM cylinder gasket. Careful bolting carb up to nylon manifold as the nylon strips if overtightened.

thread on testing

 

[ndlawrence]

I had time today to pressure test the saw, i started with 13inhg at 5mins it was down to 9inhg then at 10mins 7inhg. Does this sound right or is that much of a leak to much?
Thanks,
Nathan

 

[lfnh]

is that with new base gasket and crank seals ?

from workshop manual
80kPA = 23.7inHg
60KPA = 17.7inHg
setup:

View attachment 219304

 

[ndlawrence]

No I haven't changed anything it's still got the rtv gasket which I'm still planning on changing. Also I tested it through the spark plug hole, will this work or not?
Thanks,
Nathan

 

[lfnh]

Always tested thru the intake fixture plate and use soapy water around base and exhaust gasket, decomp, crankseals for visual. Piston at TDC.

 

[ndlawrence]

Okay thanks ill have to rig something up tomorrow to test through the plate.
Thanks,
Nathan

 

[lfnh]

Didn't buy mine. Made it up from a electrical cover plate with center thread hold and some pipe fittings for intake and similar plate (no hole) for exhaust blanking plate + some inner tube for sealing gaskets.

 

[272super]

Okay thanks ill have to rig something up tomorrow to test through the plate.
Thanks,
Nathan

Testing through the spark plug hole is fine,just make sure piston is at BDC so the air can enter the crankcase easier through the transfers. Leave the plastic intake on so you can test the boot and impulse grommet for leaks.