Having trouble removing clutch cover nut on Stihl 076

[NuggyBuggy]

I've done this before, but for some reason cannot get the nut ( that retains the sprocket cover) to move. I know it's a reverse thread (clockwise to loosen) and like I said, Ive done it before...on this saw no less. Ive got some nylon rope through the plug hole and my socket slips before it will budge. That nut should be 19mm, right ?

I doused it with PB Blaster penetrating oil several times last week, then this week did more of the same AND hit it a heat gun... It won't move. I've even hammered away at the socket handle ( I know that's not good)... Tried tightening a tad and then loosening. Still no joy.. The nut looks like its on straight.

Can any of the gurus here offer advice ?

Also, how important is it to torque the clutch spider to the proper specs IF you are also torquing down that nut to its proper spec? Shouldn't the fact that the nut ultimately bears on the spider be enough ? I ask because I don't want to source the special tool Stihl has in their manual.

Thanks!

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

I've done this before, but for some reason cannot get the nut ( that retains the sprocket cover) to move. I know it's a reverse thread (clockwise to loosen) and like I said, Ive done it before...on this saw no less. Ive got some nylon rope through the plug hole and my socket slips before it will budge. That nut should be 19mm, right ?

I doused it with PB Blaster penetrating oil several times last week, then this week did more of the same AND hit it a heat gun... It won't move. I've even hammered away at the socket handle ( I know that's not good)... Tried tightening a tad and then loosening. Still no joy.. The nut looks like its on straight.

Can any of the gurus here offer advice ?

Also, how important is it to torque the clutch spider to the proper specs IF you are also torquing down that nut to its proper spec? Shouldn't the fact that the nut ultimately bears on the spider be enough ? I ask because I don't want to source the special tool Stihl has in their manual.

Thanks!

I don't know how the clutch comes off of the 076.

How critical is it that you get it off now? I would suggest slowing down and wait for someone that's taken a few off before something gets broken.

Post up a pic is always helpful!

Regards

Dan

 

[NuggyBuggy]

thanks Dan. I am indeed at the point where I'm looking for expert help before I do anything disastrous.

however, I realize something in my first post was wrong. I no longer think the socket is slipping off the nut, I think I the rope I put in the chamber is. able to compress too much, allowing the piston to come back down. When that happens, it feels like the socket slipped.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

thanks Dan. I am indeed at the point where I'm looking for expert help before I do anything disastrous.

however, I realize something in my first post was wrong. I no longer think the socket is slipping off the nut, I think I the rope I put in the chamber is. able to compress too much, allowing the piston to come back down. When that happens, it feels like the socket slipped.

Great observations! Try using more rope. Just be sure the piston is above the exhaust port so the rope doesn't get in there! It makes a REAL MESS! (experience is the best teacher!)

Sometimes it's best just to stop and take a step back.....and think!

I'm sure you'll get it off now that you figured out the crank was turning.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

dan,
Looks like I have to pull the cylinder... the piston was well clear of the exhaust but I think that rope got snarled inside. I only get a few hours a weekend to work on my milling and saws and it seem like every weekend there's a new problem. My wife thinks I am just dragging my ass, making up my saw problems, and looking for a new excuse to buy another saw.

 

[galde]

One thing to be real careful about when stopping the piston is to make sure you are not stopping it anywhere near top dead center, as this is where the compressing force on the connecting rod goes sky-high. This is what lets you squeeze with one ton of force with a 40 lb grip on a Vise-Grip pliers. The amount or rope (or oil, or whatever..) in the cylinder is most effective if the crank is stopped somewhere midway between top dead center and bottom dead center.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

dan,
Looks like I have to pull the cylinder... the piston was well clear of the exhaust but I think that rope got snarled inside. I only get a few hours a weekend to work on my milling and saws and it seem like every weekend there's a new problem. My wife thinks I am just dragging my ass, making up my saw problems, and looking for a new excuse to buy another saw.

Well....sorry to hear that! We all have to learn one way or the other! I couldn't just click 'like' on that one!

You could point out to your wife how much it would cost to have a shop service your saws! I've pointed out to my wife that I've got less than half invested in my whole saw lineup than one new quality saw would cost!

One thing to be real careful about when stopping the piston is to make sure you are not stopping it anywhere near top dead center, as this is where the compressing force on the connecting rod goes sky-high. This is what lets you squeeze with one ton of force with a 40 lb grip on a Vise-Grip pliers. The amount or rope (or oil, or whatever..) in the cylinder is most effective if the crank is stopped somewhere midway between top dead center and bottom dead center.

Good point galde!

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I havent tried taking it off this 075 I have tore down yet. :msp_scared: I hope it's not as bad as yours is to break loose.

Heck, just throw the impact to it. Lol, J/K. I figured heat may help it. Maybe some light tapping. I have ran into some that were a PITA to break loose but I've just stayed persistent with it. You'll get here eventually.

 

[Jeremiah]

Hi we had that problem with a 460..
Got it cheap tangled with a loader.
Anyway my brother punched a hole in the piston with a home made stopper..
Held the flywheel with my left hand. Impact spun it off super easy. Incredibly easy.Lol

 

[William Balaska]

Impact all the way, forget using a rope. Buy a plastic piston stop before it's too late.

 

[William Balaska]

Torque spec is like 25.5lbs. Use blue lock tight.

 

[Cope1024]

Impact all the way, forget using a rope. Buy a plastic piston stop before it's too late.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-OEM-P...922?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e3a9508a

 

[Nate66n1]

Plus one for the impact

 

[Jeremiah]

Piston stops are sweet

 

[harrygrey382]

impact (we call them rattle) guns are good for removing the nut, but as said you want to torque it back on with a bar. I've never had a problem removing with a bar, although they've sometimes needed a lot of force. A rope is better than any stop as you can feed heaps in and it spreads the force over the whole of the piston crown and cylinder roof - a screw in top concentrates it in one spot whether plastic or not. Getting the right size rope is critical - I think they say 3/8 but I use the largest I can fit through the whole.

Why do you have to pull it down - is it stuck in there? I'm surprised you can't wiggle/pull it out if so

 

[Sunrise Guy]

impact (we call them rattle) guns are good for removing the nut, but as said you want to torque it back on with a bar. I've never had a problem removing with a bar, although they've sometimes needed a lot of force. A rope is better than any stop as you can feed heaps in and it spreads the force over the whole of the piston crown and cylinder roof - a screw in top concentrates it in one spot whether plastic or not. Getting the right size rope is critical - I think they say 3/8 but I use the largest I can fit through the whole.

Why do you have to pull it down - is it stuck in there? I'm surprised you can't wiggle/pull it out if so

This is why I left Stihl behind, for the most part. Total garbage on design for something as simple as removing a clutch. The plastic stop is a joke. It doesn't do a great job and easily falls out of place if you're maneuvering the saw to get a better grip on that thin clockwise release nut. I have to tape mine in place, before pulling it out, grabbing a rope and stuffing it in. Other clutches, on saws from other companies, never gave me the problem Stihl saws did. Yeah, you need a special jig on some, but once you buy them, clutch removal is a snap.