HELP Chain Grinding & Sharpening

[Philbert]

Nice photos in your ad. There have been discussions about this here on A.S. Specialty sharpening, like square ground, separates you apart. But I hear lots if guys complaining about spending $7 to get a loop sharpened.

Doing it out of your garage for some side money is one thing, but if you have overhead . . .

Duke,

ABN and CBN are different types of abrasives used to coat the wheels. Search around on Google or here on A.S. for the specifics. Diamond abrasives reportedly 'fill up' on ordinary steel cutters and lose their effectiveness.

Philbert

 

[Duke066]

I've found that putting a little ad on CL will help out with getting the word out in the beginning and won't cost you any money, but
it takes time to "build" a clientele. I've found satisfied customers spread the word the best (word of mouth). In truth I've come to the conclusion that it's tough to make any real $$$ Sharpening chains. I couldn't pay the bills this way. Maybe I charge too much, but for the time it takes + materials + wear and tear I can't see doing it
for much less. I wish you the best of luck in the endeavor though.
Here's a Link what I put together for my lil CL ad. Precision Chainsaw Sharpening
Maybe give you a starting point.

Hi Woodsman,

Thanks for the information and you have a very nice CL ad. I like it, very informative.

I am looking for very satisfied customers after I sharpen their chains. I do not want to be bad mouthed about my sharpening so I am trying to learn all I can before I put an ad out. I'm not looking to get rich sharpening chains, just looking for a little additional income to help pay the bills.

Thanks again for the info and wishing me good luck. I think I will need it.

Duke

 

[Duke066]

Nice photos in your ad. There have been discussions about this here on A.S. Specialty sharpening, like square ground, separates you apart. But I hear lots if guys complaining about spending $7 to get a loop sharpened.

Doing it out of your garage for some side money is one thing, but if you have overhead . . .

Duke,

ABN and CBN are different types of abrasives used to coat the wheels. Search around on Google or here on A.S. for the specifics. Diamond abrasives reportedly 'fill up' on ordinary steel cutters and lose their effectiveness.

Philbert

Thanks again Philbert for the information. I checked around and went to a couple of links given to me and now I think I understand the coatings a little better. I will look to buy a CBN wheel as soon as I can. I see they are over $200.00 so it might take a little while seeing I just spent over $400.00 on my grinder and I'm only living on my Social Security check.

Thanks again.

Duke

 

[millbilly]

Thanks again Philbert for the information. I checked around and went to a couple of links given to me and now I think I understand the coatings a little better. I will look to buy a CBN wheel as soon as I can. I see they are over $200.00 so it might take a little while seeing I just spent over $400.00 on my grinder and I'm only living on my Social Security check.

Thanks again.

Duke

Those wheels are only $115.
If your worried about complaints, walk them out to your demo log, and invite them to try out your edge.

 

[Kenskip1]

Duke, welcome to the site.I am also on the ss band wagon trying to make ends meet.The largest hurdle that I have found is sharpening the "Safety" chains. People want the chain sharpened but they do not want you adjusting the shark fin in front of the raker.Many people here buy cheep chains from the major box stores.In reality these chains are made of cheap soft metals from other places than the USA.As soon as my grinding wheel touches it I am able to feel the hardness of the tooth being sharpened.Try and find out who sharpens the chains for your local city utilities.Power companies are forever using saws.This is something else you might want to look into.Like you my $$ is very limited. Best wishes, Ken

 

[Duke066]

Those wheels are only $115.
If your worried about complaints, walk them out to your demo log, and invite them to try out your edge.

THANKS Millbilly,

I will continue to look around Google to see if I can find them for that price. I guess I just don't know where to get good buys yet. Thanks for the demo log suggestion. It sounds good to me. Thanks again for your help.

Duke

 

[Duke066]

Duke, welcome to the site.I am also on the ss band wagon trying to make ends meet.The largest hurdle that I have found is sharpening the "Safety" chains. People want the chain sharpened but they do not want you adjusting the shark fin in front of the raker.Many people here buy cheep chains from the major box stores.In reality these chains are made of cheap soft metals from other places than the USA.As soon as my grinding wheel touches it I am able to feel the hardness of the tooth being sharpened.Try and find out who sharpens the chains for your local city utilities.Power companies are forever using saws.This is something else you might want to look into.Like you my $$ is very limited. Best wishes, Ken

Hi Ken,

I believe most people around here have the safety chains with the anti-kickback so I guess I'll just wait and see when I get up and running. Most of the people around here buy their chains from the larger stores or a local hardware store.

Great idea with the utilitie companies. Next time I see the power company working around here I will ask them about their chains.

Hope you make it on SS as I know how hard it is. Thanks again for the help.

Duke

 

[lambs]

My guess is most homeowner types will have safety chain with the additional bumper link parallel to the depth gauge. In my opinion these are pretty much throw away chains. You can sharpen the cutters and lower the depth gauges only a little before your file or wheel contacts the bumper link or extra shark fin. They are a pain to get right.

The power company sounds like a good idea. I expect they might run semi-chisel chain for the most part without the bumper links.

CBN / ABN wheels work noticeably better in a grinder, but you do pay for that. Prices vary as does the design. Mine has cutouts around the wheel so the edge of the wheel does not continuously contact the cutter...this is a cyclone type wheel. It also stirs up a nice breeze to help keep the cutter cool. Some of these wheels have no cutouts, and may therefore be less expensive. All of them are cut from a solid steel blank and coated around the edge with CBN / ABN in some proprietary blend. Mine can be recoated so long as it is not worn all the way down to the blank, which is estimated at 1500 - 2000 uses. I am not keeping track of this...:smile2:

When you get into volume, you may wish to invest in one and try it. I would not invest in one for the occasional use. You get the same finish with the standard vitreous wheels (Oregon for example) if you take your time while grinding and keep the wheel dressed properly. A CBN wheel will give you speed, consistency, cooler grinding, very long life, and no need to ever dress the wheel.

 

[machinisttx]

Hi Philbert,

Thanks for the welcome and the information.

The business end is just so that I can have a little extra money to make ends meet beside my Social Security check which isn't much.

I thought about doing chains but once again I know nothing about it. I do know that there are a lot of different chains out there and I don't know enough about all the numbers to feel comfortable making chains for people then charging them. I don't want to get a bad name and people spread the word that I don't know what I am doing.

I do not know what a CBN wheel is as of yet. I thought diamond wheels were for cutting steel chain.

Thanks again for your help

Duke

If you use a diamond wheel on steel, the wheel will not last long at all. The two just don't get along. Use the diamond for carbide only and either regular abrasive wheels or CBN for steel.

When mounting either a diamond wheel or CBN wheel, it needs to be checked for runout with an indicator and that wheel shouldn't ever be removed from the arbor/mandrel until it's time for a new wheel. They'll last much longer.

 

[RVALUE]

What runout are you checking for? Quality of wheel?

 

[lambs]

If you use a diamond wheel on steel, the wheel will not last long at all. The two just don't get along. Use the diamond for carbide only and either regular abrasive wheels or CBN for steel.

When mounting either a diamond wheel or CBN wheel, it needs to be checked for runout with an indicator and that wheel shouldn't ever be removed from the arbor/mandrel until it's time for a new wheel. They'll last much longer.

I flip mine over so it wears on both sides and switch it out as needed with a different wheel for .325 chain. I doubt I'll ever wear out my CBN wheel. I guess if i had a dedicated grinder for each pitch of cutter, maybe I'd mount the wheel and not flip it over until one side was worn down.

 

[Duke066]

My guess is most homeowner types will have safety chain with the additional bumper link parallel to the depth gauge. In my opinion these are pretty much throw away chains. You can sharpen the cutters and lower the depth gauges only a little before your file or wheel contacts the bumper link or extra shark fin. They are a pain to get right.

The power company sounds like a good idea. I expect they might run semi-chisel chain for the most part without the bumper links.

CBN / ABN wheels work noticeably better in a grinder, but you do pay for that. Prices vary as does the design. Mine has cutouts around the wheel so the edge of the wheel does not continuously contact the cutter...this is a cyclone type wheel. It also stirs up a nice breeze to help keep the cutter cool. Some of these wheels have no cutouts, and may therefore be less expensive. All of them are cut from a solid steel blank and coated around the edge with CBN / ABN in some proprietary blend. Mine can be recoated so long as it is not worn all the way down to the blank, which is estimated at 1500 - 2000 uses. I am not keeping track of this...:smile2:

When you get into volume, you may wish to invest in one and try it. I would not invest in one for the occasional use. You get the same finish with the standard vitreous wheels (Oregon for example) if you take your time while grinding and keep the wheel dressed properly. A CBN wheel will give you speed, consistency, cooler grinding, very long life, and no need to ever dress the wheel.

Hi Lambs,

I think your right about the safety chains. My neighbor gave me a chain to sharpen and that is what he had. I took the rakers down a little and when I did I also took the additional link down to where the raker was. I don't know if that was right or not but the chain cut good.

I still think I should get a CBN wheel so that I can do a better job on the wheels. I'll just cut back on something this month and get one next month. I was told that I can find one for just over $100.00. I have not had a chance to look any further for the wheel and the one that I did find was over $200.00 so I will continue looking. I would like to have the one with the cutouts so that it is running cooler.

THANKS for the help and advise. Have a great day.

Duke

 

[millbilly]

If you use a diamond wheel on steel, the wheel will not last long at all. The two just don't get along. Use the diamond for carbide only and either regular abrasive wheels or CBN for steel.

When mounting either a diamond wheel or CBN wheel, it needs to be checked for runout with an indicator and that wheel shouldn't ever be removed from the arbor/mandrel until it's time for a new wheel. They'll last much longer.

If that being the case, you would need a minimum of 3 machines to grind chains. Those wheels are that sensitive?

 

[Duke066]

If you use a diamond wheel on steel, the wheel will not last long at all. The two just don't get along. Use the diamond for carbide only and either regular abrasive wheels or CBN for steel.

When mounting either a diamond wheel or CBN wheel, it needs to be checked for runout with an indicator and that wheel shouldn't ever be removed from the arbor/mandrel until it's time for a new wheel. They'll last much longer.

Hi Machinist,

THANKS for the information and advise. I really do appreciate it.

What happens if you continue to remove it and place it back on. I don't have the money to buy a second grinder to do the rakers so I keep changing wheels right now.

Have a great day.

Duke

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I still think I should get a CBN wheel so that I can do a better job on the wheels. I'll just cut back on something this month and get one next month.

With money tight and your experience level being low combined with the fact that you're just starting up, why not just go with what you have? Do some chains for next to nothing (or free) to get yourself accustomed to the whole process. As you become more proficient (and confident), you can start charging more and invest in upgrades to your operation.

 

[Duke066]

With money tight and your experience level being low combined with the fact that you're just starting up, why not just go with what you have? Do some chains for next to nothing (or free) to get yourself accustomed to the whole process. As you become more proficient (and confident), you can start charging more and invest in upgrades to your operation.

Hi Mark,

THANKS for the input,

I just thought that buy getting a CBN wheel right away it would let me do a better job. I didn't want to start out and have problems with the stone wheels and have those problems reflect back to me as doing a poor job. I just thought I would start out right from the beginning.

What you are saying makes a lot of sense though.

Thanks again and have a great day.

Duke

 

[lambs]

Duke,
I sent you a PM on this topic.

I would not worry too much about runout. If it's off, send the wheel back. You'll know. And my opinion (only) is that if it happens to have a little wobble in it due to the wheel or the machine, it's still going to be way more accurate than a file.

 

[Duke066]

Duke,
I sent you a PM on this topic.

I would not worry too much about runout. If it's off, send the wheel back. You'll know. And my opinion (only) is that if it happens to have a little wobble in it due to the wheel or the machine, it's still going to be way more accurate than a file.

Thanks Lambs,

I got the PM and I really appreciate all the info and help.

Have a great day.

Duke

 

[ft. churchill]

Welcome on board Duke! Do check out the Oregon website as it has tons of information on chain sharpening. Also check out Baileys as they have everything you'll ever want to get started.

 

[Duke066]

Welcome on board Duke! Do check out the Oregon website as it has tons of information on chain sharpening. Also check out Baileys as they have everything you'll ever want to get started.

Hi FT,

Thanks for the info and Welcome. I will surely do that. I have been to Bailey's already as well as Oregon. I bought an Oregon grinder.

Thanks again and have a great day.

Duke