I'm not seeing a radius on the original crank or bearings. But maybe I'm not sure what I'm looking at. The inner race on the original bearings are the same on both sides as it appears to me. And same as the chinese bearings s also. I posted some pics of the cranks side by side and the one with the piston attached is the new chinese one.
I have replaced the rope twice with 2 different sizes as the first one was a little too large so I went to the husky dealer and got the rope they said it calls for and used that. Also I cant tell if anything is warped with the inside pulley in tact can I? I just didnt wanna deal with rewinding the spring if it comes apart,but if I have to take the center bolt out and pull it apart to check I will. At this point I'm in so deep on hours and new parts and so forth I'm paying to fix it. Which isn't ideal but I want my customer to be happy. Lesson learned on chinese parts tho no matter what the customer wants I can no longer use these crap parts and lose my arse on hours and so forth. This has been a nightmare to say the least. I've built alot of stihls and a few other husqvarna s and NEVER had these kind of issues. Lol but I used original OEM and or hyway parts pro line,etc. Whatever wolf creek or the duke has in stock normally if I cant get it locally
Yes klotz is the oil I use in all my 2 stroke bikes saws equipment,sleds etc.. love it.
Oh and on the ignition timing thing,I was thinking this also and I noticed with the saw laying on its side mac side facing up obviously that when I put the flywheel on the crank it will slop back and forth quite a ways forward and back before putting the nut on tight. So there seems to be alot of room for me to set it where i want it however I'm not well versed in which is better or worse for a stock saw i assume advancing timing is better than retarding it? I just tried to hold it directly in the center of the play when I tightened it down
Right.not so much even cheaper for the customer because I cannot in good conscience charge him for all the hours I have into this,but for the amount of time and aggrivation it definitely woulda been better to go oem from the start. And i have the bearings oriented out sorta as far as they can go because 1 side has the oiler cover that recesses down into the bearing pocket and seals with an o ring. And the other has a seal that supposed to be like 2mm past flush but I have mine flush currently as not to put any pressure on the bearings and crank. The new to me used oem crank is coming in the mail today so I will see what I can do and I'll report back
Alright sorry for the delay,but I got the new used crank in and new oem self bearings and seals gasket kit etc. And I cleaned and then lightly oiled and heated the inner races and slid the bearings on the crank by hand. No visible radius or obvious differences between new and old bearings and cranks. So then I heated bearing pocket and slid the entire set up into the mag side case half. Then set my puller up and heared the clutch side bearing pocket and the case half slid together almost all the way by hand. I then left the oiler bolted on basically as a bearing stop to make sure it doesnt bind up on that even tho I had already seated the bearing against the crank as far as it would go. I got the bottom end together and seemed to spin nicely. Maybe not smooth as glass and loose as a goose but nice and smooth anyway. So I then cleaned and started to assemble the top end and bolted it down. Hooked the flywheel to the crank,and spun over by hand. Didnt seem too bad but even with the plug out you could still feel the "compression" stroke so to speak. Still seemed free compared the the last 3 times I'd put it together ,so I kept assembling added recoil etc and it still pulls over really hard. I'm 100% at a loss and am defeated.
UPDATE. So I finally figured it out, I'm not honestly sure what the issue was,I put the saw completely together and put gas in it and pulled it over a few times and it was still hard to pull. Then it fired for the first time and ran amd has pulled fine ever since! I swear that saw hades boggled. I've built quite a few saws and never had any issues like this and I pay attention to fine detail as much as I can, i.e reading service manuals front to back etc. When doing a build. So I just wanna thank EVERYONE for all there help and advice I do think the chinese crank amd bearings where culprit in the beginning but she now is back together and ripping chips like noone s business. The customer still hasnt picked it up which is fine I've just been using it a little here and there to be sure its gonna stay oiling which was the whole reason It landed on my bench in the first place! Now onto my newest problem saw. A farmertech 372xp kit saw not holding a tune!. Crank seals and gaskets are sealed.
You talking starter pawls ?
I just talked to a veteran guy at the local dealer. Turns out the short rope is the problem. The 272 has high compression. I bought it that way. I will put the proper rope on it and I should be good to go.
Pull slow till you go passed TDC then pull hard , will be easier for you , if you’re having a problem pulling it over ,
Thank you for the advice on that.
