Hi, not too mechanical, got a good deal on a 357xp that has the auto decompression valve. I have heard this can be a problematic set up. I want to put a manual valve on it and seal the other end correct? Can I do this and also what do you think it would cost to have it done at a shop? I am nervous about attempting this but might tackle it if you guys say it isn't too tough. Thanks, Russ
help removing auto decomp valve
- Thread starter Bluefish
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nmurph
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Very good.
o8f150
Tree Freak
i have never worked on one but if it is like any other which it should be,, it just screws in,, just need a socket to fit
ford832
ArboristSite Guru
My 2156 had the manual valve and it always made me nervous as a potential air leak as a little spooge always weeped out over time.Eventually,I popped it out,welded it over and screwed it back in.No more weep,no air leak-though no decomp either.These saws really don't need it anyway imo.
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Spooge? Is that the stuff coming out of a politicians mouth when he's speaking?
So, how did you fix it?
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, that is what alot of politicians need ..... a boot for the other end!
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
I too decided to throw away the automatic decompression, as the hose to it, tends to crack and leak, so i put a manual one, from one old junk saw in to it....
But...the saw wont run. I donno what the problem is, but if i take out the tanks breather tube and blow in to it, the saw will run for 10 secs or so, as it does is i squirt some gas in to carburetor, and the carb has all the new membranes and gaskets. As if it still wouldnot get any gasoline, in to the carb, or it gets stuck in it somehow. Its about 7 years old and used in forestry for its life.
Any ideas ?
But...the saw wont run. I donno what the problem is, but if i take out the tanks breather tube and blow in to it, the saw will run for 10 secs or so, as it does is i squirt some gas in to carburetor, and the carb has all the new membranes and gaskets. As if it still wouldnot get any gasoline, in to the carb, or it gets stuck in it somehow. Its about 7 years old and used in forestry for its life.
Any ideas ?
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, i plugged the tube indeed, with small bolt covered with heath resistant silicone and i tightened it with .......steel wire 
It does not leak, that i know, but i donno what in the earth might be the problem with this saw. I have played with many many many chainsawa over the years as my job but never with 357 xpg, and its the first time when i donno what to do next. The bearings more than good, as are the seals everywhere, but can there be something inside the carbs small lines....? I tested the membrane,replaced it with factory new part, as well as other gaskets. As long as i squirt fule with injection needle, to teh carb, it runs, but not by itself, so somehow the carb wont "suck" the gas, or does not pump it towards the intake port.
All the fule tubes are now replaced, as well as fule filter. The plug is new too and flywheel gap is 0.25 MM.
It does not leak, that i know, but i donno what in the earth might be the problem with this saw. I have played with many many many chainsawa over the years as my job but never with 357 xpg, and its the first time when i donno what to do next. The bearings more than good, as are the seals everywhere, but can there be something inside the carbs small lines....? I tested the membrane,replaced it with factory new part, as well as other gaskets. As long as i squirt fule with injection needle, to teh carb, it runs, but not by itself, so somehow the carb wont "suck" the gas, or does not pump it towards the intake port.
All the fule tubes are now replaced, as well as fule filter. The plug is new too and flywheel gap is 0.25 MM.
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Was the saw running before you removed the decompression valve?
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
No, it wasnt actually, it only ran for few seconds with full throttle, and didnt have any idle capability at all. I was hoping that the leaking decomb tube that i cut and plugged, along with the manual decomp valve would solve it and the saw would run again, btu it didnt so i have been replacing one bit after another and its still mute...
The tube in the picture with red fancy arrow, is what i know was leaking, it had a crack, so i took it off, plugged the new tube piece and yanked the manual valve where the annoying automatic was.
Last edited:
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Okay.....so start over.
How's the compression? I take it the spark is okay. Spark plug okay? Is the carb clean?
How's the compression? I take it the spark is okay. Spark plug okay? Is the carb clean?
hi
hi chainfinn see that alloy part on end of tube ive cracked mine off if you arent using it no more i could do with it for my 357xp will gladly pay for it and postage
thanks
mark
hi chainfinn see that alloy part on end of tube ive cracked mine off if you arent using it no more i could do with it for my 357xp will gladly pay for it and postage
thanks
mark
No, it wasnt actually, it only ran for few seconds with full throttle, and didnt have any idle capability at all. I was hoping that the leaking decomb tube that i cut and plugged, along with the manual decomp valve would solve it and the saw would run again, btu it didnt so i have been replacing one bit after another and its still mute...
The tube in the picture with red fancy arrow, is what i know was leaking, it had a crack, so i took it off, plugged the new tube piece and yanked the manual valve where the annoying automatic was.
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