Help with 041 carb

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Andy's info was helpful... didn't realize that the fan shroud was separate from the flywheel. Might have known that if I had looked at the IPL. Anyway, I have a points ignition.

I'll look into the oil leak thingy.

Ian
 
Ok, looked up the oil pump seal issue. I've had that pump out twice, but not since the rebuild I don't think... I'll order the seals tomorrow and see if that helps.

Ian

Edit... Andre... yep, it's most likely something I did. I just wish I knew what it was so I could undo it.
 
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Another thing I was thinking may be part of the problem is the muffler mod I did. It's at about 100% of the exhaust flange area whereas the original holes were tiny slits in comparison. Is it designed to work with a lot of back pressure? I was thinking about redoing it and closing it up by half to see if it helps any.

Ian
 
Well, at this point, I assuming that the problem is the ignition. When I hit the trigger, it starts to rev normally and then seems to cut back about 1k and bog. You can hear it change. Different advance on the points system than the electronic I'm guessing. Sound right?

I seem to recall that the advance is controlled by the coil. Is it possible to put a coil from an electronic ignition on a points setup and correct the advance?

Ian
 
Hi, Ian, sorry to hear the troubles have not abated. I'm sure I read a thread in which Andy indicated that it is possible for "portions" of a coil (i.e., certain funtions like advance) to fail. On the other hand, thinking that your coil has been working fine until the moment you wrenched on another part of your 30 year-old saw...it is possibe but it sure wouldn't be the first possibily I would address. I am reminded of the time that everyone here told me that I was being a bit goofy to think that I got 2 bad coils in row on an 025. Once a few of these guys ran the odds for me, I jolted up in my chair, took a good hard look at the empty Dewar's bottle, and went and checked my spark plug which, by the way, was the culprit (along with the Dewar's). Oh, if you haven't done this, swap out the spark plug.

I guess I'm saying that although its possible that you have a timing issue, its more likely that you have a fuel issue. Try this....forget the carb for now.... disconnect the fuel line...put a tablespoon or so of raw mix down the carb throat, maybe two (hold the throttle open to make sure it goes into the engine). I find that if I overdo this a bit (intentionally), it will be a bit hard to start (fuel loaded), but once it does, I get 5 - 8 seconds of run time. This gives you a few golden moments to diagnose your coil. If you can accellerate the saw cleanly once or twice before it leans out, you know the coil is doing its job. You've pretty much narrowed things down to a fuel issue.

Lest I receive credit for this gonzo whopper of an idea, I must admit I just took this excerpt out of the "Bad Chainsaw Mechanics Guide," Chapter 6, entitled "Your Carburetor, Precision Fuel Metering Device or Your New Hacky Sack?"

I also feel a bit stupid for not suggesting this earlier, but I think its possible that your kill wire might be grounding out... maybe not enough to outright kill the saw every time, but it might be robbing enough juice to give you a crappy or inconsistent spark. I'd disconnect it from the switch and temporarily wrap the wire loosely in electrical tape to take it out of the equation.
 
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I'd like to wrap the whole saw loosely in bricks and chuck it in an old strip pit. Might knock some fish out on the way to the bottom.

thanks,
Ian
 
Hi, Ian! Whereas the "loosely wrapped in bricks" idea has some appeal, my heart cannot bear the thought of imagining your poor benighted saw's cries as you drive slowly to the river's edge. Looking at your healthy stable of saws, time is not an issue... I'd put this saw on a very soft pillow in the middle of your work bench, bathe it in the glow of your best droplights, get out your best medicine (something similar to, but necessarily Dewars), put on your strongest reading glasses, and treat the whole affair like you're resurrecting Christ himself. With that much diligence you cannot fail!!
 
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I'm thinking bathe it in the soft light of a blast furnace and melt it down to make commemorative aluminum/magnesium rings in various sizes to be engraved "the chainsaw that wrecked a teetering sanity" and distributed to the members of this honored community.

I've got the rubber rings on order for the oil pump, might as well wait till I get them installed before messing with anything else.

Ian
 
Check your plug wire.
I had a Mac 610 that drove me nuts that did the exact same thing.It was arcing to the case but only when you would go WOT.Idled great.
Just a thought.
 
I'm thinking bathe it in the soft light of a blast furnace and melt it down to make commemorative aluminum/magnesium rings in various sizes to be engraved "the chainsaw that wrecked a teetering sanity" and distributed to the members of this honored community.

I've got the rubber rings on order for the oil pump, might as well wait till I get them installed before messing with anything else.

Ian

One more thing, When you re-assembled the carb (more over the diaphram side) did you put the diaphram up against the carb body, or the gasket to seal that side up against the carb body? It will seal both ways, run both ways, one will give you a false needle position if your impulse from the crankcase is low. Also will make them run alittle leaner. Just a closing thought for today. Chris
 
One more thing, When you re-assembled the carb (more over the diaphram side) did you put the diaphragm up against the carb body, or the gasket to seal that side up against the carb body? It will seal both ways, run both ways, one will give you a false needle position if your impulse from the crankcase is low. Also will make them run a little leaner. Just a closing thought for today. Chris

I believe the diaphragm was against the carb body. Which is the correct way?

Ian
 
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Metering cover>metering diaphragm>gasket>carb body
Pump cover>gasket>pump diaphragm>carb body.


Just as it shows in the IPL...
 
Gasket on the metering side was backwards but the problem remains. Will wait for the oil pump seals to arrive and try it again.

Ian
 
no got the equipment for that and don't want to have to take it to the shop. I'll part it out on ebay before I do that.

Stubborn this apprentice is... Yessss.. (bad Yoda imitation)

Ian
 
Haywood have a 041 super w 20inbar that will eat anything i put it in. Just rebuilt it last summer new P&S from stihl new oiler and new B&C just wondering were u got an aftermarket P&S i looked for months before i found a dealer with the kit and then it was in a ziplock bag covered in dust and could find no 48mm kit in the aftermarket. Also if u need any reference info off of mine let me know i will be glad to help as i am a little far away to swap carbs.
 
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