Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
No.. Too thin. You might be able to get the 1/8" wheels, but I'm not sure.
Trying to be a HF purist?
I do use those cutoff wheels a lot. They're pretty decent for the $$$
HF Chain Grinder Thread
- Thread starter Philbert
- Start date
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Trying to be a HF purist?
I do use those cutoff wheels a lot. They're pretty decent for the $$$Good catch on the thickness. It was just the first image I could grab. The idea is that these are available in multiple thickness and grits. Might be a way to mount a thicker wheel for full sized 3/8 pitch chain? Not sure if a 4-1/2 wheel will fit without wearing it down to 4-1/4". Also available in multiple brands, if quality is a concern. Any reason not to do this? Anything obvious I am overlooking?
Philbert
(EDIT: *** I have since learned that other, more suitable wheels are available for these grinders***)
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
I don't think you'd have an issue. The grinder wheels sharpen with the sides too, unlike the cutoff wheels. I know that doesn't matter for a good grinder, but I always "used the flex" to get consistent results on mine.
May the flex be with you.
May the flex be with you.
I have an old model that was given to me by a local forum member when he got a new, fancy one.
Previous owner fastened a piece of angle iron to the bottom so you can chuck it in the bench vise. Simple, every work bench has a vice.
I agree that maintaining a precise angle (25 or 30 deg) is problematic. Consistent tooth length side to side also near impossible.
I don't burn wood nor do I cut wood (aside from test cuts) but I refurbish old saws. When I get them they invariably have horrible chains. Angle far out to lunch and vast difference in tooth length on the whole chain, forget side to side. Severely hooked from undersized file, ect..
I am pleased that using such a simple and inexpensive device I can make a trashed old chain cut well. Not outstanding, but acceptable.
Really the only disappointment is the lack of a thick wheel to do .404, 7/16, 1/2 and (recently) 9/16". Yikes!!! 9/16 is huge.
Previous owner fastened a piece of angle iron to the bottom so you can chuck it in the bench vise. Simple, every work bench has a vice.
I agree that maintaining a precise angle (25 or 30 deg) is problematic. Consistent tooth length side to side also near impossible.
I don't burn wood nor do I cut wood (aside from test cuts) but I refurbish old saws. When I get them they invariably have horrible chains. Angle far out to lunch and vast difference in tooth length on the whole chain, forget side to side. Severely hooked from undersized file, ect..
I am pleased that using such a simple and inexpensive device I can make a trashed old chain cut well. Not outstanding, but acceptable.
Really the only disappointment is the lack of a thick wheel to do .404, 7/16, 1/2 and (recently) 9/16". Yikes!!! 9/16 is huge.
Now if I could figure a way to do rakers on him instead of using my angle grinder in a by guess or by gosh manner, life would be perfect. LOL
I hate to file. Too much elbow grease for so little results.
I hate to file. Too much elbow grease for so little results.
Brettl
ArboristSite Guru
I like mine for the most part. I wish it had a second adjustment for the wheel angle. I don't know the proper term, but the wheel always needs to be flatter or steeper to match the angle of bevel on the top cutter.
Have you seen how many ebay sellers are flipping these?
Have you seen how many ebay sellers are flipping these?
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
In the last vid Philbert posted you can see the guy doing his rakers. Just uses the standard wheel. I have done it also as he shows.
Hey Philbert,
Great to see you are taking the plunge onto the el cheapo side.
I never dress my wheel. I flip it every 2-3 chains. I admit, I am only firewood guy and I donot see the grinder as the exclusive method.
I have used the standard wheel for chain up to regular 3/8. But only because the chain was severly unequal. My chain size is 1/4, 3/8 picco/hobby and regular 325. For that it works well.
I have done a two pass technique on severly rocked chain. But usually do a "bounce" type technique. I just slowly "bounce" my way to the gullet.
How do I do my setting? I put the chain into the system (have the old model with the clamp), with the turned off engine I lower the wheel into the gullet and advance the chain with the rear screw adjuster until I get a light contact. I prefer a light "scratching" contact. Recheck the height adjustment and clamp it into place for a last test and then just fire away.
As you have seen, my results are equal to brand new stihl chain, that's good enough for me for a grinder. But I usually hand file after the grind. But my friends only get the grind, have to have a slight advantage...
7
Found it. I need to study the situation more.
I think I can dress an extra wheel to do rakers with the proper rounded leading end.
Clean up:
Drag the whole she-bang into the laundry tub. Use hot water Simple Green and a two inch paint brush to scrub him down.
Keep the motor/winding high and dry.
Drag the whole she-bang into the laundry tub. Use hot water Simple Green and a two inch paint brush to scrub him down.
Keep the motor/winding high and dry.
Do you mean that you flex the unit to the extreme on each tooth? I try to stay completely neutral but I think working it to the limit would be even more uniform.
I grind the depth guages by moving them backward a millimeter or two under the wheel. It is easier than I expected. Sometimes I dress the front edge by resetting the wheel and making a second trip around without moving each cutter, just nipping the leading edge. Then I dress them with a file. Don
I usually push the wheel into the tooth taking two or three licks on each one.. "Using the flex" as it was described earlier in this thread.
I have tried using it on the rakers, but again I found it to be inconsistent. My method was setting the hinge depth to just take a hair off the raker, and slide the raker in under the wheel, grinding the top of it. I could make it grind a lot or a little depending on how I positioned the tooth. I'm probably doing it wrong through.
I have tried using it on the rakers, but again I found it to be inconsistent. My method was setting the hinge depth to just take a hair off the raker, and slide the raker in under the wheel, grinding the top of it. I could make it grind a lot or a little depending on how I positioned the tooth. I'm probably doing it wrong through.
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
There is certainly nothing wrong with the Tecomec full size clones as they are a great value. If your going to get a grinder, why not just step up to the $100 bench mounted full size that take standard wheels and be done with it. Granted I have not tried one of the small plastic units and have no desire to do so.
BTW, Philbert I got one of the 1/8" resinoid wheel from Bailey's the other day. I am now becoming a wheel whore.
BTW, Philbert I got one of the 1/8" resinoid wheel from Bailey's the other day. I am now becoming a wheel whore.
Not the point of this thread. This one is about what is possible with these cheap little grinders.
I am wondering if the cut off wheels, mentioned a few posts above, would work on these grinders similar to those resinoid wheels.
Philbert
(EDIT: *** I have since learned that other, more suitable wheels are available for these grinders***)
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I had one.......
Threw it away.
Threw it away.
gunrush128
ArboristSite Guru
Happy to see that this went to a good cause... Lots of good info here, philbert. Merry Christmas!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
Philbert the cheap little grinders remind me of this, sure you can do it but why?
As far as the wheels, real ones are so cheap so why?
It's winter. It's an inexpensive endeavor. It could be fun. It could be helpful for guys who don't want to file, but can't justify spend $100 + on a grinder. We might gain some insights on grinders, cutters, sharpening, etc. There are millions of these things out there - I might get stuck sometime/somewhere where I HAVE to use one. I can't afford to take apart brand new $1,200 saws just to screw with them, but I can risk a $30 grinder! I might find out that I have been a grinder snob. Etc.
Just a few thoughts off the top of my head. Could probably come up with a few more if I had time.
Might be that I discover just one nice situation where this thing could be handy for me. For example, in one if the referenced threads, someone commented that this motor is small enough to run off the cigarette lighter in his car with an inverter.
I don't expect this to replace my other (511A type) grinders.
I am not so concerned with the $6 wheels ($3.29 on sale, and with a coupon) as I am trying to do full sized 3/8 pitch chain with a 1/8" wheel.
If you follow my sharpening rants, you know that I strongly advocate profiling the wheel to match the file shape, and not grinding with the flat side of the wheel.
Since HF does not sell a 3/16" wheel I am looking for options.
Philbert
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