homemade chainsaw lanyards
- Thread starter cntrybo2
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Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
A dog leash works for me.
Timberhauler
Addicted to ArboristSite
custom lanyard ms200-n-036 or others
on the 200t i use a rock climbing 4in spectra web with a light weight non locking krab on the 36= i use a chainsaw lanyard and non locking[foin] krab. its just a little different and versatile with my personal touch. i can use with any style harness or clip to small limb,sucker ,lanyard, d-ring,and leaves me with many more options than stock.
on the 200t i use a rock climbing 4in spectra web with a light weight non locking krab on the 36= i use a chainsaw lanyard and non locking[foin] krab. its just a little different and versatile with my personal touch. i can use with any style harness or clip to small limb,sucker ,lanyard, d-ring,and leaves me with many more options than stock.
heres my system, having the snap buckle means that even under pressure I can release it easily. The lanyard is elasticated and doesnt get in the way if I dont have the saw on. All my saws have the same type of strops on them.
looks a little shakey to me
i would never trust my saw on that cheep plastic snap. 5-6lbs of pressure will automatically release that snap. i had the same snap on my handsaw and it would drop without warning. It was removed immediately for fear of injury or damage to property. I think silky should fix this setup asap and recall all products with this type of attachment. Any items made to wear aloft should be secure and solidly attached to the climber period. I also think for safety reasons that all accessory's attached to the climbers saddle that don't involve life support should have a 150-200lb breakaway.:rockn:
i would never trust my saw on that cheep plastic snap. 5-6lbs of pressure will automatically release that snap. i had the same snap on my handsaw and it would drop without warning. It was removed immediately for fear of injury or damage to property. I think silky should fix this setup asap and recall all products with this type of attachment. Any items made to wear aloft should be secure and solidly attached to the climber period. I also think for safety reasons that all accessory's attached to the climbers saddle that don't involve life support should have a 150-200lb breakaway.:rockn:
i'm going to enter caution here...
Part of a regular chainsaw lanyard function is usually some kind of de-acceleration strategy. Now, on an 020/200 etc. i guess you might not get into too much trouble on a drop; especially if it has some elasticity to it; and isn't tooo strong. But, a larger saw in a tree; being dropped accidentally; falling 3-4' and suddenly stopping can really give you a jolt; without any elasticity. Even an elastic line; but super strong can give you quite an impact.
All ways remember that the load to tensile strength ratio and elasticity are reciprocals. So, stronger is less elastic to the same loading.
Also, another factor in some pro-level leashes; is that if you get saw bound in a branch (mostly by cutting further out with top cut than undercut) and your saw gets taken (because you weren't quick enough to rotate saw with piece and pull out as you do); you don't want anything tooo strong (like rigging line or lanyard) connecting you and load.
Innovating and saving money, customizing etc. is great; but generally ya want to follow the lead of some of the high dollar folk that have spent a lot of time and money before taking on some liability.... One contradiction to that would be a small prussik as a lanyard adjuster instead of a cam in clean conditions.
Also as WLL points out; in fabricating; consider each device seperately; go s/low and think
Part of a regular chainsaw lanyard function is usually some kind of de-acceleration strategy. Now, on an 020/200 etc. i guess you might not get into too much trouble on a drop; especially if it has some elasticity to it; and isn't tooo strong. But, a larger saw in a tree; being dropped accidentally; falling 3-4' and suddenly stopping can really give you a jolt; without any elasticity. Even an elastic line; but super strong can give you quite an impact.
All ways remember that the load to tensile strength ratio and elasticity are reciprocals. So, stronger is less elastic to the same loading.
Also, another factor in some pro-level leashes; is that if you get saw bound in a branch (mostly by cutting further out with top cut than undercut) and your saw gets taken (because you weren't quick enough to rotate saw with piece and pull out as you do); you don't want anything tooo strong (like rigging line or lanyard) connecting you and load.
Innovating and saving money, customizing etc. is great; but generally ya want to follow the lead of some of the high dollar folk that have spent a lot of time and money before taking on some liability.... One contradiction to that would be a small prussik as a lanyard adjuster instead of a cam in clean conditions.
Also as WLL points out; in fabricating; consider each device seperately; go s/low and think
Its not a cheap plastic snap, its a military standard webbing snap and after my business has been using it for 5 years with everything from an MS200 to my 088 and a 090, I can vouch for it. They have never accidently released, and links up really quick and easily. I pay 3 times what you do for my saws and parts, Im not about to risk dropping them!
sorry to have upset you. on my end here with your pic it looks like any common plastic web snap. I'm also sorry to hear you pay 3x more than me for the same sawz and parts i use.bummer I'm confused.
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Actually with the exchange rate the way it is I only pay just over twice as much, was 3 times a while back when the exchange rate was worse.
The price things okay, its good motivation for taking care of what you have!
pbtree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Works fine for me as well...
Blinky
ArboristSite Operative
I used to use a home made, shock corded dog leash style lanyard on my 200T but it was in the way a lot so now I just use it on bigger saws and use a simple 8" loop and ring on the 200. It's much easier to deal with day in-day out.
Rftreeman
Addicted to ArboristSite
small diameter 5' piece of rope with a bowline knot in each end, one to snap on my saddle and the other to loop through the saw ring or handle.
does everyone trust that flimsy looking lanyard attachment ring on 200T?
on the 200t i use a rock climbing 4in spectra web with a light weight non locking krab on the 36= i use a chainsaw lanyard and non locking[foin] krab. its just a little different and versatile with my personal touch. i can use with any style harness or clip to small limb,sucker ,lanyard, d-ring,and leaves me with many more options than stock.
Nailsbeats
Addicted to ArboristSite
I trust the ring, but haven't even had either of my tophandles for a year yet, so what do I know. I just figured that was what it was for, it better work.
ok.. that make sense... much rather lose a saw, then get yanked down 
just rerouted lanyard from handle to ring.
here's a pic of my latest bungee lanyard find for $1 at steve's whole tools, tulsa.
just rerouted lanyard from handle to ring.
here's a pic of my latest bungee lanyard find for $1 at steve's whole tools, tulsa.
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Matamorph
New Member
Work in progress!:
(Adapted from a surf board leash.)
... Belt end termination is a moth cocoon of gerth-hitched wire & webbing, sheet-bent with cable ties, taped, woven again with cable ties, taped again! Saw end is as is, designed to let go of a surfboard if pulled too hard... (webbing held there by series of constrictor hitches (VERY VERY tight!... already bullet proof without webbing though!) more cable ties, taped... only mod to that end is rubber grommet placed over clip to help hold a little longer!!..(tests done and clip seemed to let go slightly too quickly... Surfers are pussies!).. now it's perfect! If a saw is being pulled hard enough to come out of that I would rather it let go!!!
...shopping tomorrow for a smaller tape sling(or maybe even 6mm prussic cord for the temporary clip cord.. not decided yet), with a better clip! This one weighs a ton! (all I had around for test of theory)
(Necessity is the mother of invention!!! I need to keep my saw with me!! ...within reason!!)
... I also need a pay rise!!!
...and a new surf board leash!
(Adapted from a surf board leash.)
... Belt end termination is a moth cocoon of gerth-hitched wire & webbing, sheet-bent with cable ties, taped, woven again with cable ties, taped again! Saw end is as is, designed to let go of a surfboard if pulled too hard... (webbing held there by series of constrictor hitches (VERY VERY tight!... already bullet proof without webbing though!) more cable ties, taped... only mod to that end is rubber grommet placed over clip to help hold a little longer!!..(tests done and clip seemed to let go slightly too quickly... Surfers are pussies!).. now it's perfect! If a saw is being pulled hard enough to come out of that I would rather it let go!!!
...shopping tomorrow for a smaller tape sling(or maybe even 6mm prussic cord for the temporary clip cord.. not decided yet), with a better clip! This one weighs a ton! (all I had around for test of theory)
(Necessity is the mother of invention!!! I need to keep my saw with me!! ...within reason!!)
... I also need a pay rise!!!
...and a new surf board leash!
Attachments
Makita 36v Cordless Top-Handle saw has an equipment ring on the bottom. I clip a jumbo harbor freight aluminum hook ($2-4 depending on sale) (non-locking carabiner) to it and a piece of 3/8 harbor freight rope made into a loop around the handle. Even if the equipment ring breaks I still have the rope loop holding the saw. The lanyard is also 3/8 harbor freight rope. It's like $10 (or less I don't remember) for 100' and says its a safe working load of 300lbs. Electric tape on the knots. Never had a problem with this lanyard set up yet. If you're lugging up a bigger saw just clip the jumbo hook to the handle. I've taken up a 15-17lb saw before and the clip remained sturdy.
