If you proceed be verysure that your temp/pressure relief valve works. You might design for 1-2psi but a relief valve failure will result in a disaster. It works new...next year...how about a few years down the road?
Hrry K
Hrry K
Homemade contraption.
- Thread starter Wortown Mick
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why not just try a forced air wood furnace?
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7sleeper
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We had a terrible accident here in Austria last year. In a winter cabin with a firewood heated water system some young fellows desided to make a party and invited over there friends. By some mistake the valve comming out of the firewood box had been turned off. It had as far as I remember there was a 10 liter stainless steel tank in the fire box. They heated the cold house all evening and then went to sleep. In the night that tank ruptered and blew half of the house apart killing half of the kids and severely wounding the rest! This is not something to joke about!
Be safe and good luck!
7
Mud23609
ArboristSite Operative
A regular wood furnace would be your best bet, not to mention a much safer one.
As far as having hot not warm air come out of it, not a problem. Most have a stat on them that allows you to set the temp that the fans kick on and off at. I have mine set at 180 on and 90 off. At 90 the air is just warm at the registers when it first kicks on though it is hot.
With this setup I can get my house warm enough without the lp being turned on at all that I have to crack a window if I have the air controls set wide open.
It will keep the house comfortable (no less than 68 degrees) down to about 35 below without having to run the lp at all provided you are willing to load it up every four to six hours depending on the wood being burnt. Not to bad when you consider that most of the windows in this old house are single pane and the insulation isn't near what you would find in a newer home.
My furnace is a Clayton 1600 g. Not the best one out there but it gets the job done. I think I payed about 1200 for it brand new if I remember correctly, however I see used wood furnaces all the time on craigslist in the two to five hundred dollar range.
When it comes right down to it, it gets a heck of alot colder here for longer periods of time than you will ever see in MA. If a wood furnace keeps my old house warm in the dead of winter then it will certainly keep yours warm as well.
Watch this vid. It will give you an idea of just how much power water can have under pressure. Do yourself, your family and any close neighbors a favor and rethink your plan.
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As far as having hot not warm air come out of it, not a problem. Most have a stat on them that allows you to set the temp that the fans kick on and off at. I have mine set at 180 on and 90 off. At 90 the air is just warm at the registers when it first kicks on though it is hot.
With this setup I can get my house warm enough without the lp being turned on at all that I have to crack a window if I have the air controls set wide open.
It will keep the house comfortable (no less than 68 degrees) down to about 35 below without having to run the lp at all provided you are willing to load it up every four to six hours depending on the wood being burnt. Not to bad when you consider that most of the windows in this old house are single pane and the insulation isn't near what you would find in a newer home.
My furnace is a Clayton 1600 g. Not the best one out there but it gets the job done. I think I payed about 1200 for it brand new if I remember correctly, however I see used wood furnaces all the time on craigslist in the two to five hundred dollar range.
When it comes right down to it, it gets a heck of alot colder here for longer periods of time than you will ever see in MA. If a wood furnace keeps my old house warm in the dead of winter then it will certainly keep yours warm as well.
Watch this vid. It will give you an idea of just how much power water can have under pressure. Do yourself, your family and any close neighbors a favor and rethink your plan.
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JmJoyuUJj2Q&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JmJoyuUJj2Q&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
Last edited:
mga
wandering
you can always do some thing like this......
Mud23609
ArboristSite Operative
One other thing to note. To do a boiler correctly you need storage, and lots of it. Otherwise you will end up building lots of creosote. If a boiler is damped down it will build creosote like mad. They should be run wide open all the time, however if you don't have lots of storage you will end up super heating the water and either boiling it off in an open system, or blowing off a pressure relief valve or worse if it is a closed system.
synness4
ArboristSite Operative
I took a boiler class last spring and to be on the safe side I would say it is going to be hard to do it right i.e. pump fails low water boom your house is gone with you and your family. not worth it.
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