Horblast 1557M -11 DIKL

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Simon Welch

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The draft induction kit 11dikl for this new stove is a mystery to me. Does it blast over or under the fire? As wood is becoming harder to get here in the NE (my dealer will not even give me a price until August) and being 64 and one legged, trips to the woods with an axe can be a challenge. Can I use this draft inducer to better burn coal (anthracite) as a back up to wood in an emergency. Has anybody used this device? Ask my dealer? He thought that the plug was for a water coil. The manual is not very helpful nor are FAQs on USSTOVE

Newbie
 
Simon Welch said:
The draft induction kit 11dikl for this new stove is a mystery to me. Does it blast over or under the fire? As wood is becoming harder to get here in the NE (my dealer will not even give me a price until August) and being 64 and one legged, trips to the woods with an axe can be a challenge. Can I use this draft inducer to better burn coal (anthracite) as a back up to wood in an emergency. Has anybody used this device? Ask my dealer? He thought that the plug was for a water coil. The manual is not very helpful nor are FAQs on USSTOVE

Newbie
Click to expand...

yes you can, build fire as normal get it going good then start adding your coal! and it blows in over the fire and helps keep the coal going
 
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It's best use is for setting up on demand heating versus always burning. You shut down the dampers on the main door and ash door. A thermostat is used to control the inducer and blowers. When the home cools off, the t-stat turns the inducer on, which gets the fire hot quick. When it is hot enough the blowers kick in. When the house is at temperature, the inducer shut down and the fire smothers down from lack of air. When it cools down enough the blowers shut off. There is a bit of time between these things happening. It is a more efficient use of wood or coal.

Roger
 
Basica Guru said:
It's best use is for setting up on demand heating versus always burning. You shut down the dampers on the main door and ash door. A thermostat is used to control the inducer and blowers. When the home cools off, the t-stat turns the inducer on, which gets the fire hot quick. When it is hot enough the blowers kick in. When the house is at temperature, the inducer shut down and the fire smothers down from lack of air. When it cools down enough the blowers shut off. There is a bit of time between these things happening. It is a more efficient use of wood or coal.

Roger
Click to expand...

i realy didnt use any less wood at lest in mine but comes in handy at night
 
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Here's a link to some pictures from the draft blower manual that might help you understand the set up:

http://www.usstove.com/Downloads/Owners Manuals/11DIKL.pdf

I also have a Hotblast 1557 but have not got the draft kit yet. It seems to burn pretty hot without it. If you burn coal it would be nice. The unit is really not designed to burn anthracite coal. Just bitumous/soft/Ohio coal. Do a search in the forums for 'hotblast' and you will find lots of information about them. Hope this helps!
 
johnnylabguy said:
Here's a link to some pictures from the draft blower manual that might help you understand the set up:

http://www.usstove.com/Downloads/Owners Manuals/11DIKL.pdf

I also have a Hotblast 1557 but have not got the draft kit yet. It seems to burn pretty hot without it. If you burn coal it would be nice. The unit is really not designed to burn anthracite coal. Just bitumous/soft/Ohio coal. Do a search in the forums for 'hotblast' and you will find lots of information about them. Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

yes a have the draft blower and your right only helps with coal, but setting temo. will kick the blowers on again about 3am so i dont have to. Adds some convince to the manual stove if you will
 
smokinj said:
yes you can, build fire as normal get it going good then start adding your coal! and it blows in over the fire and helps keep the coal going
Click to expand...

Not true, Sure you can get a somewhat burning coal fire using this method but you would have to have the wood fire absolutely raging to begin with and you would only have lack luster results at best.

In order to burn coal with any luck at all the combustion air MUST come from UNDER the grates. There is no way around this, if the air is coming OVER the grates it will burn wood well but not coal.
maybe if you look around you can find the coal combustion blower that will blow under your grates.

If your stoves does not have grates you can forget it. No coal fire would be worth the effort.
 
ktm rider said:
Not true, Sure you can get a somewhat burning coal fire using this method but you would have to have the wood fire absolutely raging to begin with and you would only have lack luster results at best.

In order to burn coal with any luck at all the combustion air MUST come from UNDER the grates. There is no way around this, if the air is coming OVER the grates it will burn wood well but not coal.
maybe if you look around you can find the coal combustion blower that will blow under your grates.

If your stoves does not have grates you can forget it. No coal fire would be worth the effort.
Click to expand...

its working very good for me
 
I have a 1557 w/ an inducer. In my opinion the inducer is useless. My hse is 1850 sq ft and with all the air closed down to the furnace and air shutter for the inducer fan open, air just screams in. If you load up for the night and leave the shutter open and the hse not calling for heat the air passing through the inducer fan will quickly over heat the stove. Leaving the shutter/ air block off open is necessary for the fan to draw air when it turns on, but when the induction fan is off it is still like having a 2" air hole in the stove. It is just not a good design.
 
kallaste said:
I have a 1557 w/ an inducer. In my opinion the inducer is useless. My hse is 1850 sq ft and with all the air closed down to the furnace and air shutter for the inducer fan open, air just screams in. If you load up for the night and leave the shutter open and the hse not calling for heat the air passing through the inducer fan will quickly over heat the stove. Leaving the shutter/ air block off open is necessary for the fan to draw air when it turns on, but when the induction fan is off it is still like having a 2" air hole in the stove. It is just not a good design.
Click to expand...

not sure what your talking about i shut down everthing to use the inducer but only use it when its realy cold out
 
ktm rider said:
I'm sure the coal is burning, but no where near its abilities. If youcan get that air to come from under your grates you will be amazed at the difference.
Click to expand...

you get air from under the fire but the inducer is over the fire.I think the indcuer could be rerouted to go under with a little skill!
 
Others with the hotblast furnace have modified the blower location by mounting it to the front ash pan door. They just remove the ashpan door damper screw and mount it there. I haven't tried it but it sounds like a good way to go with coal and probably would be o.k. with wood,too.

What I'm trying to do to get maximum heat is to wire my woodfurnace correctly so that when my woodfurnace blowers kick on it also kicks on my central furnace blower. Anyone now what type of relay or switch this takes?
(Right now I have the furnace fan running constantly to circulate the heat. Not the ideal set up!)
 
johnnylabguy said:
Others with the hotblast furnace have modified the blower location by mounting it to the front ash pan door. They just remove the ashpan door damper screw and mount it there. I haven't tried it but it sounds like a good way to go with coal and probably would be o.k. with wood,too.

What I'm trying to do to get maximum heat is to wire my woodfurnace correctly so that when my woodfurnace blowers kick on it also kicks on my central furnace blower. Anyone now what type of relay or switch this takes?
(Right now I have the furnace fan running constantly to circulate the heat. Not the ideal set up!)
Click to expand...

mabe use one themo for both
 
johnnylabguy said:
Others with the hotblast furnace have modified the blower location by mounting it to the front ash pan door. They just remove the ashpan door damper screw and mount it there. I haven't tried it but it sounds like a good way to go with coal and probably would be o.k. with wood,too.

What I'm trying to do to get maximum heat is to wire my woodfurnace correctly so that when my woodfurnace blowers kick on it also kicks on my central furnace blower. Anyone now what type of relay or switch this takes?
(Right now I have the furnace fan running constantly to circulate the heat. Not the ideal set up!)
Click to expand...

i have two duct work systems
 
wireing ideas

if you want to turn on your central fan with your furnace fan, and have it thermostat controlled you will need to intercept the 24v control voltage from your thermostat. The wires will probably be red (r)for supplied voltage, yellow (y)for cooling call, (these 2 will not need to be changed), green (g)for fan call, black, (w) for heat call. The best way I can see to do it is to install a 2 position switch that has 2 sets of contacts for each position. 1 position will have the contacts set for normal central unit operation. The second will have the (g) fan call green wire, switched to the black (w) heat call terminal. Now your central unit fan is thermostat controled when your thermostat is in heat mode. If you want to turn this fan off when your furnace fan is not running (and you will), you will need a 110v contactor to switch the (g) fan call control wire. Your furnace fan will be 110v so you will need a contactor that is operated by 110v. The 24v control voltage will be turned off when the fan voltage is interupted. Oh yea, get your 110v from after your bimetal furnace switch.
Good Luck,

:givebeer: :greenchainsaw:
 

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