How Does Dirt Dull a Chainsaw Chain?

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The ole you tuber censors take away the rough stuff.
but maybe we can get a couple of semi safe ones.. you know like a large tree on top of your truck, or house type.... what about the dude that falls asleep while balancing on the tree he is trying to top?

fun things like this should not be forgotten.
 
but maybe we can get a couple of semi safe ones.. you know like a large tree on top of your truck, or house type.... what about the dude that falls asleep while balancing on the tree he is trying to top?

fun things like this should not be forgotten.
I remember that. What is the name of it....some about a narcoleptic tree trimmer
 
View attachment 1057297
Cutting into dirt dulls a chainsaw chain” - I know that. ( In fact, I've lost 4 of my chainsaw chains this way!)

But I'm curious to know the SCIENCE behind it.

Dirt is soft, wood is much HARDER, then how come dirt dulls a chainsaw chain (almost) INSTANTLY?

This question might sound a bit “newbish 🐸,” but I'm sure there're some people here who want to know the same.

So, if you know the answer, HIT ME with it!

Also, any tips on how to prevent a chainsaw from hitting the dirt would be appreciated!

Happy Sawing! 🙂
You musta hit pieces of the Chinese spy balloon lodged in the tree after they exploded it.
 
Dang Man Stop cutting on the beach. Stick to the yard lol
And charge more to do the cutting to pay for the blades. Those hard surfacing rods are not cheap either.
David

You musta hit pieces of the Chinese spy balloon lodged in the tree after they exploded it.
I dont think the poser has even replied to many or any of all these posts.
 
It is very resistant to being ground to a sharp edge, its rather brittle like hardened steel, think of a file hard.

I think you guys might be referring to some hard-facing welding rod? Tube borium is far harder than a file. The best of files cannot even scratch that stuff.
 
Very fine grit can get imbedded into trees over time which will dull the chain when you cut the tree. Very common in areas which are down wind from sites that have a changing water table so the grit gets picked up and blown for miles... If you are cutting at dusk, you can actually see sparks coming off of your chain.
If the OP really has trouble understanding that dirt/grit/sand/loess, etc. can dull a chain, well, that sort of points to either a neophyte or a concern that perhaps they've been exposed to a variety of toxins, grit, etc. that have also had a dulling effect.
 
I think you guys might be referring to some hard-facing welding rod? Tube borium is far harder than a file. The best of files cannot even scratch that stuff.
Stelite Cobalt , Tungsten Carbide & Chromium , Deloro & Boron all used extensively for various hardfacing & friction treatment applications . They are all very hard with minimal ductility properties . I have used Stelite extensively on earth moving equipment & have used specialty Eagle CDN grinding wheels to reshape & polish efficiently . Not cheap , but can reduce unexpected down time costs !
 
Until you hit foreign objects, it works pretty damn well. We put it on the leading edge, along the bottom of the blade. That thin layer stayed quite sharp, and didn't wear down like the rest of the blade.

Unfortunately, it's a bit tricky keeping the blade sharp while getting it cherry hot for the brazed material. Once on the blade, the tube borium holds that edge until broken off. The steel above it erodes away.
Have Stellite 6 , applied to my grader board on my plow truck . Use to wear out board every 3 yrs . Now just touch up the edge when required !
 
When we build cutting edges back up on earth moving gear we don`t even attempt grinding it, I have burned in 25 lbs of rod on the bucket of a 22 ton excavator , doing the cutting sides and wear bars on the bottom side, as for the teeth we just replace them but there has been times I needed to replace the sockets/ bases the teeth connect to. Miller Trailblazer out in the field and a Miller 300 at the shop.
Labour intensive to say the least brother , even with a large rod selection or mig spool gun application !
 
How would you ever know?

The only way to evaluate that claim would be to wear out a chain only cutting compression wood, and then do the same for tension wood.

I suspect that getting partially pinched all the time from compression wood might be a factor.
Try observing two teenagers for one season binding & burning up bars & chains , by not understanding proper cutting techniques for compression & tension bound logs , pretty well endorses my theory . I round / square goofy file & grind over 25-30 saw chains a week . Pretty easy to identify abused chain causation . Twisted & stretched sideplates & tweaked bars are rather obvious , compared to rocked working edge & point . lol.
 
Del,
I've never heard of filling tree a tree cavity with cement, your post made me look it up. Thanks, I learned something today.
Actually by the 80's the practice was pretty much over by professionals. What Del was hitting is stuff my Dad and Grand Father put in. It all wasn't just poured in either. Back in the 60's and 70's we were taking down trees that my Grand Father filled. Some cavities were 6' high and 2-3' wide. He would press forms into the concrete to make 4"X4" blocks, then put a layer of thin expansion joint material on top, and form the next row. The formed blocks were staggered and would look like brick work. They would let that "Set", then come back and pump or pour thin concrete in through a hole left at the top, to back fill the cavity. Finally they would make the last square at the top. In 1907 55 tons of cement were put into the Maryland Liberty Tree on St. Johns Campus. When I was at the UofMD in the 70's their Liberty Tree was still standing. Growing up in the tree business I was scared to death to walk under it. It had chunks of concrete in it the size of a VW bug. Click on the sentence below for Liberty info.
http://www.mcbridegallery.com/liber...iberty Tree, a tulip,critic of the Stamp Act.
 

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