How much money do I spend on fixing an Echo 280E?

[Impalervlad]

I have an Echo 280E that I have used for enough years to forget when I bought it. I guess I have developed a sentimental attachment to it by now. It's in excellent shape - sort of - and always starts on the first pull after the initial choke and runs strong.
About a year ago it developed oiling problems and I got by by soaking the chain with bar oil while I cut. That got old fairly quick. I pass by a small engine shop that handles Echo and Dolmar every day on the way home from work. A few months ago I decided to grab the saw, drop it at the shop and get it looked at. I told them it wasn't oiling and left it there for what ended up a month while they ordered and installed a new pump they told me I needed.
They replaced the pump and the saw still has oiling issues. The oil hole on the body of the saw has oil but the chain is basically dry enough to develop heat and stretch with use. The bar groove and oil hole are clean and the chain should be getting oil. The saw used to drip with oil when new.
I have started dealing with another shop closer to home and ended up dropping the saw there to get a new sprocket put on. They didn't say anything about the oiling issue.
Here's the problem. The initial oiler pump replacement cost $125 but I didn't really complain because they needed to pretty much tear down the whole saw to get to it - at least that's what they told me. I was a little taken aback when the sprocket replacement cost $75 to install a $25 sprocket and $9 bearing. But that's what I get for being lazy and not doing it myself.
I know you guys that do saw work all the time are laughing at me but I'm an old guy with more money than time.
Anyhow, do I spend more money on this beautiful little saw or do I give up and get a new one. I now have $200 in to a saw that cost about $300 new as I remember and a replacement would also cost about $300 but I would be getting plastic instead of metal.
By the way, nobody said anything about checking the oil pickup screen and when I tired to pull it out myself. I couldn't get it to budge. I'm still thinking that's the real problem for the oiling issue but since I couldn't get it out to check, I would have to take it back to the shop again.
Another by the way, the first shop just gave me back the saw while the second shop returned the saw and the parts they replaced.
So, let's hear what you have to say.

 

[blackoak]

Can't tell you what to about the saw, but both places put the shaft to you charging you that much money for repairs, especially the first since your oiler still isn't working. Replacing a sprocket is about a 5 minute job so the second place didn't treat you to good either. I hate to see anybody get taken advantage even though they have more money than time.

 

[Impalervlad]

The second place charged me a half hour labor at $60 per hour.
The first place charged me an hour to take the whole saw apart.
You're right, neither place did me any favors.
If anybody owed me a favor, it was the second place because I upgraded my saws to an Echo 400, a Husqvarna 450 and a Husqvarna 460 Rancher at the second place - not to mention two spare bars and five spare chains.
I miss the Chip Chop Shop that did most small repairs while you waited and gave you some deals on equipment. But, they're out of business now. Welcome to Central New Jersey.

 

[RUSHNBOBO]

I have an Echo 280E that I have used for enough years to forget when I bought it. I guess I have developed a sentimental attachment to it by now. It's in excellent shape - sort of - and always starts on the first pull after the initial choke and runs strong.
About a year ago it developed oiling problems and I got by by soaking the chain with bar oil while I cut. That got old fairly quick. I pass by a small engine shop that handles Echo and Dolmar every day on the way home from work. A few months ago I decided to grab the saw, drop it at the shop and get it looked at. I told them it wasn't oiling and left it there for what ended up a month while they ordered and installed a new pump they told me I needed.
They replaced the pump and the saw still has oiling issues. The oil hole on the body of the saw has oil but the chain is basically dry enough to develop heat and stretch with use. The bar groove and oil hole are clean and the chain should be getting oil. The saw used to drip with oil when new.

If they said they fixed it, why not take it back and make them test it and repair it correctly?

This is probably NOT a defective pump [they rarely go bad] you likely have a plugged system and/or a cracked pickup tube.

-- A plugged system can usually be unplugged by running a mixture of oil and solvent through the tank [make it thin]

-- Inspect pickup tube and or screen carefully for any damage.

-- Make sure the oil hole on the bar is free of debris... run a bar cleaning tool or thin piece of metal down the groove, blow out with compressed air if avail.

-- Start the saw [sans guide and chain] bar and observe the oil hole [should flow steadily without air or interruptions]

Anyhow, do I spend more money on this beautiful little saw or do I give up and get a new one. I now have $200 in to a saw that cost about $300 new as I remember and a replacement would also cost about $300 but I would be getting plastic instead of metal.
By the way, nobody said anything about checking the oil pickup screen and when I tired to pull it out myself. I couldn't get it to budge. I'm still thinking that's the real problem for the oiling issue but since I couldn't get it out to check, I would have to take it back to the shop again.
Another by the way, the first shop just gave me back the saw while the second shop returned the saw and the parts they replaced.
So, let's hear what you have to say.

If you truly are attached to the saw that's all that really matters... personally I wouldn't put a dime into it. But I prefer more modern high revving, pro saws, but that's me. Classic saws do have a cool factor and are built with far less plastic.

 

[echoshawn]

My first step would be to take it back to the shop that did the oil pump and tell them its still not working.

If thats not an option, rinse the oil tank out with some old mix gas. You can get a can of carb cleaner and use it to blast out the screen. you can also use it to blow back from the oil outlet at the bar to see if any junk gets blown out that way.

I'm not familiar with the exact operation of the oiler on your specific saw, but, unless its been run for a long time with zero oil, it shouldn't have gone out on you.

Either way, its up to you how much you want to put into the saw. Plenty of guys have put way more money into a saw beyond the purchase price, its just a matter of what you like. By all means, keep it. Try to find someone who likes working on older stuff, and I bet they figure it out.

 

[Impalervlad]

I cleaned up the bar and oil hole but couldn't get the tube and oil screen out of the oil filler hole. The tube had plenty of flexibility so I'm doubting it is cracked. I tried blowing the oil hole in the body out with air but that didn't do anything. I settled on the oil pump because of all the discussions on this site about oilers that went bad. If I have a new oiler and everything else is okay, I'm going to try the solvent route to try to clear the system. Then, I'm giving up and getting the top handle Husky.
I'm not interested in going back to the first shop - kind of like the girlfriend that did you wrong.
The mechanic at the second shop did say to me - in regard to a Homelite SXL that is also having oiling issues - to check the simple stuff like the oil pickup screen first - you know Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS). that's why I felt more comfortable with the second shop. I used to do small appliance repair and I can understand a small shop charging a half-hour labor for even a small job.
I guess I answered my own question and I'm going to stop putting money into this saw but I will try to fix it myself and see if I can learn something. I was going to try working on the one Homelite SXL I have (the second one still runs fine) but parts availability scared me off. It seems that most parts are still available for the Echo.
Just saw Echoshawn's post. I never ran the saw without oil but I did run some heavy motion lotion through it for awhile. I'm also anal about getting stuff into the oil tank or the fuel tank but that's not to say some stuff didn't get in there when I wasn't paying attention.
Really wanted to say thanks for all the replies. it really helped me make up my mind.

 

[phillipmc]

The 280E with the 2 separate levers on it for engage and disengaging the brake are a pita to put back together ask me how i know, Need lots of patients strong hands and determination. I could easily see a hour to replace the oil pump. Then again I would of made sure it was oiling before giving it back to the customer to. 1 thing about the echo 280e absolutely now antivibe. My hands are tingling for an hour after i run a tank through it.

 

[Justsaws]

The oil pump is accessed behind the front cover of the saw.

Remove the black carb box/front cover.
Remove the air fliter.
You should see a metal brace that the front cover screws into. On the bar side of the brace is a hole. Behind that hole is the oil pump, flat bladed screw driver, medium.

The oil pump is adjustable.

To adjust....

Turn the screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
Start saw and run at medium speed, not wide open throttle. If this part makes you nervous that turn the screw out 1/2 turn first and then start saw.
Turn the screw counter clockwise until max oil flow is achieved, usually about 1 turn out from lightly seated.
To reduce the flow of oil from the normal Echo gusher the screw is still turned counter -clockwise. Common mistake is to turn it back closckwise.

Takes less than 30 minutes to swap pumps. Takes no special tools. Most times replacing o-ring and cleaning is all that is needed. It has a spring loaded piston pump driven off the crank shaft, near bullet proof other than wearing parts and occasionally getting stuck with gunk. Hands down one of the simplest top handle saws ever made, certainly one of the most dependable.

I will add that if you want to remove the pump then remove the metal brace first. You may need pliers to pull the pump free of the housing. The longest part of the process is cleaning and inspection. A new oil pump in a clogged housing will not work.

 

[Impalervlad]

Thanks for the information. I'll see if I can get to the pump and try the adjustment.

 

[Impalervlad]

Now I really see why this site is so valuable.
I wish I posted here before I had the saw repaired at a shop.
Thanks again to all that responded and gave the great advice.
I start early and work late so I'll have to wait until the weekend before I dig into this saw again.

 

[zogger]

Your screen is plugged up most likely. Rinse it out good with mix. Couple of times. or more. Get the gunk out.

 

[RUSHNBOBO]

These along with your new pump are the entirety of the oiling system, for just over 12 bucks you have eliminated every possibility of filter, hose and pump being the problem. The oiling system system will be 100% new. You should be able to pull the hose and filter through the housing/grommet in one unit.


Echo 13211511131 (replaces 13211511130)
GROMMET Your price: $0.83

Echo 43720513930
PIPE, OIL Your price: $4.08

Echo 43620502832
FILTER, OIL Your price: $7.14

The pump drive gear/cam is the ONLY other possibility and it's remote, the Echo pump drives off a cam or worm gear of some sort, hard to tell from parts diagrams. When these strip they 'usually' don't work at all. It doesn't sound like your problem.

Good luck
Rush

 

[Impalervlad]

Right now, I'm so happy I don't know what to say.
I definitely want to thank blackoak, RUSHNBOBO, echoshawn, phillipmc, zogger, and especially Justsaws for responding to my post and helping me fix the saw.
YES, EVERYTHING IS WORKING!!!!!
I followed Justsaws instructions and tried to adjust the oil pump but it had no effect. So despite being unable to pull the oil pickup filter when I tried yesterday, I tried again and got it out. Turns out the filter was completely clogged with what looked like brown goo. At first I thought I was scraping off part of a filter screen but it was just built up sludge. I ran over to the auto store and got some carb cleaner (on special for $2.50), sprayed the filter, refilled the oil tank, readjusted the oil pump flow and watched the oil come out and meet the chain for the first time in a couple of years.
I installed a new air filter put the saw back together and smiled when it fired up on the first pull - it almost always does.
If I had come to the site first with the question, the whole job would have cost me $2.50 plus tax - instead it cost $125 for an incomplete job. What gets me is I dropped off the saw and told them it's not oiling. Shouldn't they have checked the filter screen first instead of never?
A lot of my friends believe in Karma - what goes around, comes around. I'm not showing off about this, but I'm giving Mr.Poppet my first saw - a Homelite 150 for his/her collection. I can't help but think this is Karma in action.
I plan to stop at the shop that "fixed" the saw and tell them what happened.
They are an Echo dealer and the only Dolmar dealer in the area and I was considering buying a saw from them but I guess I'll look elsewhere for a shop I can trust.

 

[echoshawn]

Right now, I'm so happy I don't know what to say.
I definitely want to thank blackoak, RUSHNBOBO, echoshawn, phillipmc, zogger, and especially Justsaws for responding to my post and helping me fix the saw.
YES, EVERYTHING IS WORKING!!!!!
I followed Justsaws instructions and tried to adjust the oil pump but it had no effect. So despite being unable to pull the oil pickup filter when I tried yesterday, I tried again and got it out. Turns out the filter was completely clogged with what looked like brown goo. At first I thought I was scraping off part of a filter screen but it was just built up sludge. I ran over to the auto store and got some carb cleaner (on special for $2.50), sprayed the filter, refilled the oil tank, readjusted the oil pump flow and watched the oil come out and meet the chain for the first time in a couple of years.
I installed a new air filter put the saw back together and smiled when it fired up on the first pull - it almost always does.
If I had come to the site first with the question, the whole job would have cost me $2.50 plus tax - instead it cost $125 for an incomplete job. What gets me is I dropped off the saw and told them it's not oiling. Shouldn't they have checked the filter screen first instead of never?
A lot of my friends believe in Karma - what goes around, comes around. I'm not showing off about this, but I'm giving Mr.Poppet my first saw - a Homelite 150 for his/her collection. I can't help but think this is Karma in action.
I plan to stop at the shop that "fixed" the saw and tell them what happened.
They are an Echo dealer and the only Dolmar dealer in the area and I was considering buying a saw from them but I guess I'll look elsewhere for a shop I can trust.

Glad you got it working! :msp_biggrin:

Finding a reliable, honest shop anymore is the hard part. Another part of the reason I stick with Echo. My shop was a
husky dealer, but gave up the brand. The husky and stihl dealers close by have lost my business due to their non-existent customer service, they just want to sell you a new saw.

Enjoy!

 

[RUSHNBOBO]

If I had come to the site first with the question, the whole job would have cost me $2.50 plus tax - instead it cost $125 for an incomplete job.

Who said we're free? your invoice is in the mail. :msp_biggrin:

Glad you [we] got it fixed, now go make some wood chips...

 

[Nardoo]

Well done - you got it fixed. From now on you are one of us and you fix your own stuff (and soon your friend's stuff too). Now nobody likes these Little Champs because they look like a toy, so let's keep it that way - don't talk them up.:msp_biggrin: I can buy them cheap but if the crowd find out what a wonderful little saw they are the price for them will soar. They are one of my favourite little saws and like your saw they are about the easiest starting saw you can get. I put a brake on one of mine and the front AV handle from a 300E and it rocks. An 8" bar and sharp 3/8" LP chain and you have one handy little saw.

 

[sledrat]

Yes heard they were the worst little saws out there :hmm3grin2orange:
i know i would never buy one
Kinda like fishing in a favorite fishing spot ..
heard it was fished out and fishing is the pits and why i go i have no idea lol..

 

[backyard]

Thank-You

]ustsaws, I would like to thank you for fixing my Echo 280E. I have owned it for twenty years or more and regular disassemble it and clean it up. The last time I did, I noticed that the oil adjusting screw was loose.( I didn't know at the time it was an adjusting screw) Well I tightened it and I no longer had oil. I didn't know what was wrong or why. It has now been a year or so since it ran oil. Thanks to you I now have my Echo gusher back. Thanks for saving my saw I won't be buying a new one. I would also like to thank the old man with more money than time for getting the ball rolling on this subject. Well thanks to you all.. Happy sawing.. big jay

The oil pump is accessed behind the front cover of the saw.

Remove the black carb box/front cover.
Remove the air fliter.
You should see a metal brace that the front cover screws into. On the bar side of the brace is a hole. Behind that hole is the oil pump, flat bladed screw driver, medium.

The oil pump is adjustable.

To adjust....

Turn the screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
Start saw and run at medium speed, not wide open throttle. If this part makes you nervous that turn the screw out 1/2 turn first and then start saw.
Turn the screw counter clockwise until max oil flow is achieved, usually about 1 turn out from lightly seated.
To reduce the flow of oil from the normal Echo gusher the screw is still turned counter -clockwise. Common mistake is to turn it back closckwise.

Takes less than 30 minutes to swap pumps. Takes no special tools. Most times replacing o-ring and cleaning is all that is needed. It has a spring loaded piston pump driven off the crank shaft, near bullet proof other than wearing parts and occasionally getting stuck with gunk. Hands down one of the simplest top handle saws ever made, certainly one of the most dependable.

I will add that if you want to remove the pump then remove the metal brace first. You may need pliers to pull the pump free of the housing. The longest part of the process is cleaning and inspection. A new oil pump in a clogged housing will not work.

 

[backyard]

Thank-You

Thank-you for getting this subject started. Adjusting my oil pump found my problem. I now have my saw working like new thanks to you and others.. big jay

I have an Echo 280E that I have used for enough years to forget when I bought it. I guess I have developed a sentimental attachment to it by now. It's in excellent shape - sort of - and always starts on the first pull after the initial choke and runs strong.
About a year ago it developed oiling problems and I got by by soaking the chain with bar oil while I cut. That got old fairly quick. I pass by a small engine shop that handles Echo and Dolmar every day on the way home from work. A few months ago I decided to grab the saw, drop it at the shop and get it looked at. I told them it wasn't oiling and left it there for what ended up a month while they ordered and installed a new pump they told me I needed.
They replaced the pump and the saw still has oiling issues. The oil hole on the body of the saw has oil but the chain is basically dry enough to develop heat and stretch with use. The bar groove and oil hole are clean and the chain should be getting oil. The saw used to drip with oil when new.
I have started dealing with another shop closer to home and ended up dropping the saw there to get a new sprocket put on. They didn't say anything about the oiling issue.
Here's the problem. The initial oiler pump replacement cost $125 but I didn't really complain because they needed to pretty much tear down the whole saw to get to it - at least that's what they told me. I was a little taken aback when the sprocket replacement cost $75 to install a $25 sprocket and $9 bearing. But that's what I get for being lazy and not doing it myself.
I know you guys that do saw work all the time are laughing at me but I'm an old guy with more money than time.
Anyhow, do I spend more money on this beautiful little saw or do I give up and get a new one. I now have $200 in to a saw that cost about $300 new as I remember and a replacement would also cost about $300 but I would be getting plastic instead of metal.
By the way, nobody said anything about checking the oil pickup screen and when I tired to pull it out myself. I couldn't get it to budge. I'm still thinking that's the real problem for the oiling issue but since I couldn't get it out to check, I would have to take it back to the shop again.
Another by the way, the first shop just gave me back the saw while the second shop returned the saw and the parts they replaced.
So, let's hear what you have to say.