Squatch
ArboristSite Operative
As a rule of thumb how much lean does a tree have before you decide to use the plung cut/blackstrap method. Specifically fir trees?
Interesting.Turn then off the lean 45° to 60 ish is an option.
Thanks for the spelling correctionYou mean plunge cut? or is plung cut something else?
Seems like Coos bay will be the right approach on this one. Thanks for the feedbackTo the OP, rarely use plunge cut, even on hard leaners, coos bay mostly.
The bore and strap only if I feel the need to vacate in a hurry, sketchy tips, widowmakers etc
All the trees are dead? That makes a huge difference, and are they really dead or just mostly dead. Is the bark sloughing off, are there still needles on the tree, is the sap wood rotten? What is the diameter?
Watch out for widow makers, don't pound wedges hard enough to shake the tree and break off a limb. Shave off the bark at least on the backcut and palm the wedges in snug. I like a deep face cut, like 1/3 the diameter. You need a foolproof escape route or two. Watch the top. Remember the center of gravity will shift down the tree as gravity takes over for the tree's natural circulation, hence the deep face. If the trees are small, say less that 24" dbh consider an open face notch to make sure the face doesn't close and hold the tree. Never fully trust the hinge wood on a dead tree but don't stop cutting just because the tree wiggles and shifts a couple inches. Oh and have a well thought out escape routes and be ready to drop and run.
Actually I was thinking circumference. I just measured a similar size tree in my yard. 4.5 up its 56” round so gives a dbh of just under 18?35" dbh but only 30' tall? Are these trees broken off, aka stobs? You will probably spend more time clearing an escape route than actually falling a tree. Such is like, eh?
I don't fart around with unnecessary fiddling.
Highly appreciated.I can not match Nate's eloquence.
sorry I missed your post.What do you mean by 2 cut west!?
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