How sharp is sharp?

[Macman125]

There is really nothing to it once you get the hang of it. The only time I have problems is when I am fixing a chain that has been fubared. Its not that I can't get it sharp again it is that it takes forever, makes me wish I had a grinder sometimes. I myself am looking into learning to square file.

 

[A10egress]

filing a chain is definitely a test in patience and dedication. The first ones I ever did took forever and got all messed up. But I kept at it and filing the chain just comes natural to me now. Give yourself room for mistakes, learn from them and do it with full attention and you'll be OK.

 

[Jackbnimble]

Well, let's be honest. False modesty isn't necessary. It does take a real genius to perfect this skill and obviously we have both demonstrated uncanny intelligence plus perseverance in this realm. (But, it does get easier with time!)

filing a chain is definitely a test in patience and dedication. The first ones I ever did took forever and got all messed up. But I kept at it and filing the chain just comes natural to me now. Give yourself room for mistakes, learn from them and do it with full attention and you'll be OK.

 

[A10egress]

I worked and fixed ejection seats for 17 years... filing a chain is quite simple once you get the mechanics of it. It does however require patience, dedication and knowledge of how it needs to be done. I guess we are all genius in one way or another

 

[Del_]

I usually sharpen on the saw every few tanks or so depending of course on how the saw in cutting.

As an arborist I'm often cutting far from home so I do carry several extra ready to go chains in case they are needed.

It's important to get the job done and get the crew home. Counting on hand sharpening on the saw when the payroll clock is ticking is counter productive profit wise.

Cutting around the house or in the woods out back is another story.

I've found 3X magnifier glasses to be very helpful. Makes a tooth look an inch long!

 

[Jackbnimble]

I worked and fixed ejection seats for 17 years... filing a chain is quite simple once you get the mechanics of it. It does however require patience, dedication and knowledge of how it needs to be done. I guess we are all genius in one way or another

I used to fix ejection seats, too. Killed 14 people in 27 minutes. No one appreciated my expertise.


Seriously, you know what is funny? I was about ready to throw in the towel because I just wasn't able to catch on. Then, almost suddenly, it started to feel right. I was astonished.

 

[no tree to big]

Honestly we run saws for multiple days with out being sharpened if you keep it in clean wood it don't slow down... I'm not sure how yall need to sharpen after a tank or two!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[Del_]

Honestly we run saws for multiple days with out being sharpened if you keep it in clean wood it don't slow down... I'm not sure how yall need to sharpen after a tank or two!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

The simple answer is you don't need to sharpen after a tank or two if you're not after top of the line performance.

A slightly slower cutting chain takes it's toll on the saws lifespan and also the bar and sprocket.

But most important of all a slower cutting saw takes it's toll on the operator.

 

[Philbert]

Difference between 'touch-up' sharpening, to maintain a sharp edge, and waiting to sharpen until a chain is dull, and no longer cutting well.

Philbert

 

[no tree to big]

Difference between 'touch-up' sharpening, to maintain a sharp edge, and waiting to sharpen until a chain is dull, and no longer cutting well.

Philbert

Most of the time our chains don't dull over time they dull rapidly when somebody bounces it off the chipper or cuts sod...

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[Jackbnimble]

"A slightly slower cutting chain takes it's toll on the saws lifespan and also the bar and sprocket.
But most important of all a slower cutting saw takes it's toll on the operator." Del_

I've read that this is true in books about chainsaws and it makes sense, but I don't know why, exactly. How does a chainsaw distinguish between a chain that is cutting with sharp cutters and one that isn't?

Occasionally, I'll run into a cutter that just doesn't want to get sharper. I end up trying every possible angle, various degrees of pressure, new files, just spinning the file, etc., and nothing produces that razor-like sharpness. Anyone experience this, too?

I love when the chain tears through wood like it's starving to death. I love to see long strips of thin wood pile up behind me. There's something hard to describe and very satisfying about that, whether I sharpen the chains or not. I never cease to be impressed how much a very sharp chain loves to cut, how efficient and easy chainsaws are to use when running a very sharp chain.

I love wood. I love to cut a section from a newly felled tree and to experience the fresh, aromatic wood so raw, so sturdy, so tough and solid, you know? I love its ruggedness, its weight and strength, its beauty. And somehow it got like that from just a small seed, rain, dirt and sunlight. How the heck can that possibly happen? But it does.

 

[Philbert]

Dull chain puts more load on the motor, and other components, to pull it. In extreme cases, it will lug the motor and cause overheating, vibration, cause the user to press harder, etc.

Philbert

 

[BC WetCoast]

But how would a saw differentiate between a dull chain cutting a piece that's 20% of the bar length and a sharp chain cutting 100% of the bar length?

 

[Jackbnimble]

But how would a saw differentiate between a dull chain cutting a piece that's 20% of the bar length and a sharp chain cutting 100% of the bar length?

Excuse me. Pardon me. Most of the time I can't remember what day it is.

You ask an interesting question. If all things are equal, for example, cutting the same size and type of wood, with the same saw, the one with the razor sharp cutters will work less hard, creating less wear and tear.

If taken to an extreme, a chain that is so dull it can't really cut at all, will eventually wear out before it produces anything. If it is super sharp, it will wear out at the same rate but will yield a 1,000 cords?

My tendency is to put more pressure, more weight into the cutting action the less sharp the chain is. I suppose that creates more heat, like tires spinning, when the chain spins at 60 to 70 mph without gaining traction and passing through the wood?

Beats me!

 

[Philbert]

But how would a saw differentiate between a dull chain cutting a piece that's 20% of the bar length and a sharp chain cutting 100% of the bar length?

And how much wood would a woodchuck chuck, if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

With the newer, computer controlled chainsaws, it's probably just a few years until it sends a message to your iPhone to answer your question.

Occasionally, I'll run into a cutter that just doesn't want to get sharper. I end up trying every possible angle, various degrees of pressure, new files, just spinning the file, etc., and nothing produces that razor-like sharpness.

Post some close up photos of your cutters. We can probably offer some suggestions.

Philbert

 

[Jackbnimble]

And how much wood would a woodchuck chuck, if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

With the newer, computer controlled chainsaws, it's probably just a few years until it sends a message to your iPhone to answer your question.



Post some close up photos of your cutters. We can probably offer some suggestions.

Philbert

If I knew how, I'd be delighted to.

BTW, does anyone know where, in the front or the back, that the black, 1" x half inch, shield goes for summer vs winter weather, that fits inside a Stihl MS 660 Cover?

 

[Philbert]

BTW, does anyone know where, in the front or the back, that the black, 1" x half inch, shield goes for summer vs winter weather, that fits inside a Stihl MS 660 Cover?

Download (or read) the Owner's Manual from the STIHL website. It is different on each saw, and really hard to explain. The manuals have pictures.

Philbert

 

[Jackbnimble]

thanks Phil

 

[Jackbnimble]

You know how we're always told not to drop start the saw? We're told to place the saw on the ground, stick our foot into the handle space and tug on the starter cord. Is it me or is that the dumbest instruction of all time? I couldn't fit my foot, shoe, boot into that tiny opening if I cut off 4 toes. Can anyone crunch their foot in there?

 

[ATH]

There are other ways to start without drop starting...

But I start my bigger saws on the ground all the time. Just hold it down with the toe of you boot... Don't need to put you whole foot through.